Friday 5th August
Last night I went for my final evening stroll along Marlioboro Street. There was a group of young guys playing Javanese music with traditional instruments, I must find out the names (gundung?). The band was really good and some older local guys danced and even coerced some shy but brave white girls to dance with them, it was a fun atmosphere and a good send off for me.
This morning I walked down Marlioboro street and caught the bus out of town to Jombor, and from there onto a bus to Borobudur, 1.5 hours. A longer than expected walk brought me to this large brick and bamboo hotel at the other end of town. It seems quite posh but I have a cheap, clean dorm room to myself so keeping a low profile.
I hired a good bike and went for a leisurely ride. Rode out to the Buddhist Mendut Temple, 3kms. Inside the small temple is a large Buddha statue that is unusual because he is seated western-style, rather with his legs crossed. The outside of the temple has excellent intricate carvings. There is a big banyan tree in the courtyard and I visited the monastery next door, which has a Buddha statue that was a gift from the Buddhists at Nara in Japan.
I rode back into Borobudur and it was so quiet because it was Friday lunchtime, like a ghost town. I carried on through and out the other side of town to explore the surrounding villages and countryside. I stopped on a bridge to see a couple fishing with a net in the river. Further on I stopped to chat with and get directions from a nice older guy. The scenery was beautiful: green fields (growing tobacco plants, unfortunately) and low mountains in the distance, it did seem to be different from places I have been before. There were people working in the fields, and kids and adults flying kites. I chatted to a few people and they were nice. The countryside is beautiful and seems a millions miles away from the big cities.
After about 2 hours on the bike I happened to look back to see where I had come from and was surprsied to see the massive Borobudur temple (which I will visit tomorrow). It must be huge cos I was a long way from it. And then I looked up and for the first time saw Gunung Merapi (Mount Merapi, Merapi means 'Fire Mountain', it really does look like the dangerous volcano that it is).
I cycled as far as the next village (Karang?) but then my stomach started to get funny again so I turned around and headed back. Had to dive in to the bushes and relieve the pain in my stomach at one point; was ok after that.
Today I saw a lizard (of a type I haven't seen before), baby chickens in a plant pot, a lotus flower, and a gaggle of large geese.
Saturday 6th August
By 6am I was waiting for the ticket office to open at the World Heritage Listed Borobudur Temple, the biggest Buddhist Temple in the world. I was the first one through the gate (except for a few who pay big money to be there at sunrise). I walked along the path and part of the temple comes into view. I quickly walked up the steps and turned round, and watched the sun come up from behind the volcano, the sun casting light on the early morning mist and the palm trees.
I went back down to the lower level and proceeded (as you always do with Buddhist monuments) to walk clockwise around the outside. After a circuit I moved up to the next level. The temple was built between AD750 and AD850 and has 2 million stone blocks, many of which have intricate carvings depicting Buddha, his mother, Buddhist stories and Javanese life. Each carving was made before being put into it's place. The sun shone brightly on the carvings facing east.
There were not too many people there and with a bit of maneuvering I was able to have some of the small outdoor corridors of the temple to myself for a few minutes to enjoy the atmosphere and the quiet while looking at the carvings in the temple and the mountains beyond.
I walked around the next two levels and then came to the to top level where there are 72 patterned stupas, each one hiding a Buddha statue, on another 3 terraces leading up to the top platform. The terraces are currently closed for restoration work but that was ok. I had a chat with a trainee guide who wanted to practise his English.
The temple has been restored more than once, and photos in the museum show that it was a mess before it was restored.
After a couple of hours I went and sat on the grass to eat an apple and look at the temple from a bit of distance. It was still quite peaceful; apparently during school term they sometimes get 30,000 kids a day! Really?
Back at the hotel I got two fluffy pancakes for late breakfast and then checked out and walked to the bus station and straight onto a bus (45 mins) to Magelang. The bus driver invited my bag and I to sit up front with him and I contentedly munched on the second pancake as we went. At Magelang the driver pointed to my next bus and I switched to a bus to Ambarawa while the traffic waited. Along the way it seemed like we were in volcano valley with craters in the distance on either side of us.
We arrived in Ambarawa after an hour or so and after lunch I got 2 minibuses to the junction for Gedung Songo; for a while I had my 20kg bag on my lap. At the junction I soon found a guy with a motorbike taxi to take me 3kms up the hill to Gedung Songo. The hotel was more than I had expected. My room and balcony have a view across the valley to a volcano, and another to the east. It would be too easy to just hop between the major tourist sites of Java, especially on a tour in an aircon bus! I was looking for a bit of an adventure and to get away from the tourists and among the locals so I was glad I took the time to come here, and the view is my reward! I had a short walk to check out the ticket office for tomorrow, it's a pleasant village.
While I was reading my book there was, I guess, a this-is-a-test type loudspeaker announcement. This was followed by the well-known emergency siren. I guess this is preparation for if/when there is an imminent eruption. This was followed by a fairly constant stream of Qur'an recitals; it sounded like a young child was getting some practice. Even when it stops you can hear it coming from another mosque in the distance. It's a bit chilly up here. For dinner I got tasty packet noodles which the guy cooked for me out the back of his shop.
Sunday 7th August
At 7am I walked up the hill to the Gedung Songo temples which are 6 Hindu temples spread out along the hillside. The temples are not so special but the views across Java are great; or they probably are when it's not misty. It was a quiet walk along a proper path with forest either side, and pleasant enough but you couldn't really make out the mountains in the distance. There was a stream of suplhur blowing from a hole in the side of the mountain; it was hissing and squealing and if it had been a kettle on a stove you would have rushed to turn it off.
After, my plan was to try to make it to Malang by tonight. And by 5 buses and 2 motorbikes, I did it. At 8:30am I got a paid lift on a bike down the hill then in a minibus to Ambarawa. There, a helpful old man knew enough English to help me, and from across the road I got a minibus to the bus terminal. From there I got to Saltiga. After a short wait I got a minibus but it was the wrong one, so I got off and soon flagged down another passing bus, to Solo. I could have gone directly from Solo to Malang but it seemed a bit quicker to go via Surabaya. From Surabaya I got the bus to Malang and then on the back of a bike to this hotel, arriving at 8:30pm. phew. Total time waiting around for public transport was virtually nil today; I always seemed to be able get straight onto the next bus. The scenery was good, mostly flat and green fields growing crops.
Until I arrived in Malang, I had only eaten one apple and a few biscuits, as I did not trust my stomach on the bus; evenso I had a few pains. Seems ok now. I got tasty noodles near the hotel. Started to watch the Community Shield match on the Tv in the lobby with a couple of the staff, but then the picture kept dying so we gave up.
Last night I went for my final evening stroll along Marlioboro Street. There was a group of young guys playing Javanese music with traditional instruments, I must find out the names (gundung?). The band was really good and some older local guys danced and even coerced some shy but brave white girls to dance with them, it was a fun atmosphere and a good send off for me.
This morning I walked down Marlioboro street and caught the bus out of town to Jombor, and from there onto a bus to Borobudur, 1.5 hours. A longer than expected walk brought me to this large brick and bamboo hotel at the other end of town. It seems quite posh but I have a cheap, clean dorm room to myself so keeping a low profile.
I hired a good bike and went for a leisurely ride. Rode out to the Buddhist Mendut Temple, 3kms. Inside the small temple is a large Buddha statue that is unusual because he is seated western-style, rather with his legs crossed. The outside of the temple has excellent intricate carvings. There is a big banyan tree in the courtyard and I visited the monastery next door, which has a Buddha statue that was a gift from the Buddhists at Nara in Japan.
I rode back into Borobudur and it was so quiet because it was Friday lunchtime, like a ghost town. I carried on through and out the other side of town to explore the surrounding villages and countryside. I stopped on a bridge to see a couple fishing with a net in the river. Further on I stopped to chat with and get directions from a nice older guy. The scenery was beautiful: green fields (growing tobacco plants, unfortunately) and low mountains in the distance, it did seem to be different from places I have been before. There were people working in the fields, and kids and adults flying kites. I chatted to a few people and they were nice. The countryside is beautiful and seems a millions miles away from the big cities.
After about 2 hours on the bike I happened to look back to see where I had come from and was surprsied to see the massive Borobudur temple (which I will visit tomorrow). It must be huge cos I was a long way from it. And then I looked up and for the first time saw Gunung Merapi (Mount Merapi, Merapi means 'Fire Mountain', it really does look like the dangerous volcano that it is).
I cycled as far as the next village (Karang?) but then my stomach started to get funny again so I turned around and headed back. Had to dive in to the bushes and relieve the pain in my stomach at one point; was ok after that.
Today I saw a lizard (of a type I haven't seen before), baby chickens in a plant pot, a lotus flower, and a gaggle of large geese.
Saturday 6th August
By 6am I was waiting for the ticket office to open at the World Heritage Listed Borobudur Temple, the biggest Buddhist Temple in the world. I was the first one through the gate (except for a few who pay big money to be there at sunrise). I walked along the path and part of the temple comes into view. I quickly walked up the steps and turned round, and watched the sun come up from behind the volcano, the sun casting light on the early morning mist and the palm trees.
I went back down to the lower level and proceeded (as you always do with Buddhist monuments) to walk clockwise around the outside. After a circuit I moved up to the next level. The temple was built between AD750 and AD850 and has 2 million stone blocks, many of which have intricate carvings depicting Buddha, his mother, Buddhist stories and Javanese life. Each carving was made before being put into it's place. The sun shone brightly on the carvings facing east.
There were not too many people there and with a bit of maneuvering I was able to have some of the small outdoor corridors of the temple to myself for a few minutes to enjoy the atmosphere and the quiet while looking at the carvings in the temple and the mountains beyond.
I walked around the next two levels and then came to the to top level where there are 72 patterned stupas, each one hiding a Buddha statue, on another 3 terraces leading up to the top platform. The terraces are currently closed for restoration work but that was ok. I had a chat with a trainee guide who wanted to practise his English.
The temple has been restored more than once, and photos in the museum show that it was a mess before it was restored.
After a couple of hours I went and sat on the grass to eat an apple and look at the temple from a bit of distance. It was still quite peaceful; apparently during school term they sometimes get 30,000 kids a day! Really?
Back at the hotel I got two fluffy pancakes for late breakfast and then checked out and walked to the bus station and straight onto a bus (45 mins) to Magelang. The bus driver invited my bag and I to sit up front with him and I contentedly munched on the second pancake as we went. At Magelang the driver pointed to my next bus and I switched to a bus to Ambarawa while the traffic waited. Along the way it seemed like we were in volcano valley with craters in the distance on either side of us.
We arrived in Ambarawa after an hour or so and after lunch I got 2 minibuses to the junction for Gedung Songo; for a while I had my 20kg bag on my lap. At the junction I soon found a guy with a motorbike taxi to take me 3kms up the hill to Gedung Songo. The hotel was more than I had expected. My room and balcony have a view across the valley to a volcano, and another to the east. It would be too easy to just hop between the major tourist sites of Java, especially on a tour in an aircon bus! I was looking for a bit of an adventure and to get away from the tourists and among the locals so I was glad I took the time to come here, and the view is my reward! I had a short walk to check out the ticket office for tomorrow, it's a pleasant village.
While I was reading my book there was, I guess, a this-is-a-test type loudspeaker announcement. This was followed by the well-known emergency siren. I guess this is preparation for if/when there is an imminent eruption. This was followed by a fairly constant stream of Qur'an recitals; it sounded like a young child was getting some practice. Even when it stops you can hear it coming from another mosque in the distance. It's a bit chilly up here. For dinner I got tasty packet noodles which the guy cooked for me out the back of his shop.
Sunday 7th August
At 7am I walked up the hill to the Gedung Songo temples which are 6 Hindu temples spread out along the hillside. The temples are not so special but the views across Java are great; or they probably are when it's not misty. It was a quiet walk along a proper path with forest either side, and pleasant enough but you couldn't really make out the mountains in the distance. There was a stream of suplhur blowing from a hole in the side of the mountain; it was hissing and squealing and if it had been a kettle on a stove you would have rushed to turn it off.
After, my plan was to try to make it to Malang by tonight. And by 5 buses and 2 motorbikes, I did it. At 8:30am I got a paid lift on a bike down the hill then in a minibus to Ambarawa. There, a helpful old man knew enough English to help me, and from across the road I got a minibus to the bus terminal. From there I got to Saltiga. After a short wait I got a minibus but it was the wrong one, so I got off and soon flagged down another passing bus, to Solo. I could have gone directly from Solo to Malang but it seemed a bit quicker to go via Surabaya. From Surabaya I got the bus to Malang and then on the back of a bike to this hotel, arriving at 8:30pm. phew. Total time waiting around for public transport was virtually nil today; I always seemed to be able get straight onto the next bus. The scenery was good, mostly flat and green fields growing crops.
Until I arrived in Malang, I had only eaten one apple and a few biscuits, as I did not trust my stomach on the bus; evenso I had a few pains. Seems ok now. I got tasty noodles near the hotel. Started to watch the Community Shield match on the Tv in the lobby with a couple of the staff, but then the picture kept dying so we gave up.
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