sorry it's a bit long, you might not want to read it all in one go :')
Friday 19th August
I checked out of the family homestay in Amed and got a bemo 30 minutes to Tirta Gangga (Water of the Ganges). I wanted to go for a walk around the villages and the paddy fields. I managed to get a passable not-to-scale map from the hotel and set off at 9:30am along the main road.
After about 10 minutes I found a fantastic viewpoint across the rice fields. They are terraced in places but the area is basically flat. My map suggested I could walk across the fields to Tuaka and I found a steep narrow track down into the fields where a couple of women were working. I said 'Selemat pagi' (Good morning) and they didn't seem to mind me being there. Another guy gestured for me to take the long way round, I think he had some animals in his barn that he did not want me to disturb. So I picked my way around the maze of narrow paths along the top of each small rice field.
Further along I came across a group of friendly guys who asked me for 'smokes'. Instead I gave them my chocolate biscuits which seemed to make them happy and they gave me directions. I met another older guy who had just finished ploughing with his two bulls. He was only wearing a t-shirt and undies and was up to his knees in mud.
Along the way were small thatched homes, scarecrows in the garden and irrigation canals. I managed to use my stock standard Indonesian phrases to get directions and they pointed me in the right direction; it was fun. I saw a metre-long, slimy brown snake slither up a small embankment, he was hidden in the grass before I had chance to take a photo. Eventually a guy pointed me alongside a narrow canal and I came out on a proper road, which was a bit of a disappointment really but from there I walked to Tauka.
From Tauka I walked through the village of Peladung, exchanging greetings with locals and school kids. At the main road I walked towards Amlapura, stopping for lunch and internet. I turned around before Amlapura and took the road toward Bura Keling with no particular destination in mind; 'Jalan Jalan' means 'just walking'. I passed a few old temples and then some beautiful green and orange fields.
With more helpful directions I headed towards Tanah Aron (a temple) but couldn't get a good idea from the locals about how far it was, but the walk was uphill and it was nearly 4pm when I decided not to go any further if I wanted to be sure of getting home before dark.
Using the map I started walking another way back down the hill. I passed more villages and had a bit of chat with some friendly villagers. Just off the road was a group of guys carving volcanic stone for nearby temples. They asked me for smokes so as an alternative I offered them biscuits but they were not interested in that and I felt a bit silly for offering!
Anyway, across the road was a courtyard fronted by a stone wall that looked like something from the Flintstones. Beyond it was an amazing Balinese Hindu temple with the usual scary human and animal elaborate carvings. The 3 ladies there didn't speak English so I didn't learn much about it but it looked fascinating and I did get them to write down the name of the village - Desa Umanyar. I wish I had stayed longer but the ladies were shadowing me and I felt rushed.
I kept walking to another village which seemed to be decorated ready for a festival, but again I couldn't really understand what was going on. At the end of the village I took a left along the narrow canal, pausing to give some bathing ladies chance to cover up and then covering my eyes as I passed. With another guy's help I came out back on the main road near my hotel, at about 5:45pm.
The Water Palace was still open so I had a look round. One of the pools holds some Balinese style statues, there are two bridges decorated with dragons, and a large water fountain; it is much better than the Water Palace in Yogjakarta and a good place to finish a long day.
I really enjoyed my hike today, its great to out in the countryside away from the tourist spots, I didn't see any other tourists today.
Saturday 20th August
Egg and toast and coffee for breakfast and then onto a bemo through Amlapura to Subagan. Then a public bus a couple of hours in some heavy traffic along the coast and inland to Gianyar. The bemo slowed down a couple of times so that the guy who collects the money could make an offering of flowers and incense to the spirits at the shrines along the way, to ensure a safe journey. A nice lady on the bus gave me 2 mangosteins. From Gianyar, or maybe it was somewhere else, I waited on the corner for only about 15 minutes before a bemo picked me up for the last 10kms to Ubud.
I dragged my bag around the centre of Ubud and the backstreets looking for a cheap place to stay, but it is expensive here because there are many tourists because there are many cultural things to see and do in and around Ubud. Anyway, after 45 minutes I found a cheaper, nice place 1km out of town, thanks to the LP. The family is nice and I have a big room, ensuite with hot water and breakfast included, which is relative luxury for me. I am used to cold showers/bucket baths now but it's quite cool in the evening so a warm shower is good.
I have 5 days here so I am in no hurry. I walked to the centre of town and had a look around. At the main market I saw mainly souvenirs, some of it looks mass produced and you can buy lots of tat such as miniature rock-group-themed guitars (e.g. Kiss, AC/DC) and even boomerangs with Aboriginal patterns on them. Still, I have yet to visit the temples and there should be plenty of things to see and do outside of the centre. I came back to the hotel and pottered about here while listening to some Indian music I got in Rajasthan. My room is an individual brick building set in a garden among other more elaborately decorated rooms.
In the evening I headed out for dinner and to watch the football. I thought my only choice was to watch it in the expensive expats sports bar, but along the way a small local restaurant had a TV showing Shaun the Sheep and I took a chance and asked if they would be watching the football later; the staff guy said "Yes, I always watch the football", so I had dinner there and watched Liverpool beat Arsenal. By coincidence a guy from Taiwan who I shared a dorm room with in Jakarta was also in there.
Not suprisingly after so long on the raod, things are starting to fall apart; zips are broken, my pockets have holes in and my laptop's memory card reader is faulty.
Sunday 21st August
I rented a decent mountain bike and headed out of Ubud. The roads were fairly busy but I know how Indonesian traffic works now. After about half an hour I stopped at Goa Gajah (Elephant cave). Dressed in my sarong I went down the stone steps and at the bottom is a pool with some female statues pouring water into the pool. The small cave is carved into the rock face and thought to be 1000 years old. You enter through the mouth of a demon and inside is a small lingam representing Shiva and also a statue of Ganesh, the elephant god.
Back on the bike I visited Pura Samuan Tiga temple which is pretty similar to the other temples in Bali. They sometimes seem to me to look run down and abandoned although there were a few locals walking through, and one or two interesting statues. A bit further up the road was a cremation ceremony.
I got on to the main road to Tampaksiring and passed through some roadside villages and some rice paddies. What I hadn't known was that the road to Tampaksiring is virtually all uphill; not always very steep but a gradual unrelenting ascent for about 12 kms. I had to stop for a rest quite often, and usually did so when I saw a local whom I could ask "Berapa kilometers?" (How far?). I should have had more breakfast, I was exhausted and felt a little faint! It made me think about how tough those Tour de France guys must be (the ones not on drugs, that is.)
The steepest part was going through Tampaksiring but eventually I came to the entrance for Gunung Kawi. After lunch I walked down steep steps, with other tourists, between the lovely rice paddies. At the bottom are ten 8 metre high shrines cut into the rock. There are 4 on one side of the river, 5 on the other and the other one is a km away. Well it was fairly impressive but not overwhelming. There was a normal temple there and a Chilean TV documentary crew.
My reward for making it up the hill was that for most of the way back down the hill to Ubud I was freewheeling, stopping sometimes to take photos. I did take a different way back into town that did involve some very steep uphills so I just got off and pushed. I got some nice pictures of some girls working in the rice paddies; they were smiley. But some other young girls at the roadside were grumpy with me because I did not have pens to give them; even 2 biscuits each did not appease them.
Although I was starting to be over looking at temples, I stopped at Pura Pucak Payogan temple because there were lots of locals there and something seemed to be going on. There were some guys carving and some other men and women were crafting offerings. I asked a lady why and she said the offerings were to celebrate the temple's birthday on the 30th of August. The work was clearly defined along gender lines. I was curious as to whether this many people can afford time off work to do this. The lady said that after the birthday they will probably be at another temple, so maybe it is their full-time paid job?
I went for a ride around the south of Ubud but got a bit lost so came back the same way. I was ready for a rest then anyway after 7 hours with the bike. I had dinner here at the homestay.
Monday 22nd August
Today's mission was to do two of the 8km hikes shown in the LP. I walked down Monkey Forest Road to the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary where there are monkeys in the forest! We watched the monkeys play fighting and chasing eachother around and sitting on tourists heads and taking bananas from people. I went into the temple but started to think I have seen enough temples.
I walked out of the back of the sanctuary down to the main road and off the road along a track through the rice paddies. Eventually I came out on the road to Penestanan. There are many artists' shops along the way and some of the paintings looked interesting but I am not really into that and the shops are not pushy.
Back in town I had lunch and then started my second hike. I crossed the small river and then walked up the ridge along a concrete path and past some more rice fields and local artists to a small village; it seemed more peaceful and remote up there and I preferred it to this morning's walk. After the village I walked along the (sometimes steep) main road back to Ubud.
In the evening I walked to Ubud Palace in the town centre to watch the Legong traditional dance performance. It started to rain beforehand so they moved us across the road to a sheltered meeting pavilion. I was pretty near the front and had a good view. There were two instrumental performances and 6 different dances accompanied by the Gamelan orchestra. For the first dance, 6 ladies came out in bright gold and maroon dresses and elaborate headresses. They dance with jerky synchronized moves and a kind of half smile. I don't know how they remember so many intricate movements. I watched the dancer closest to me; she was wearing blue and pink eyeshadow and she would quickly move her pupils from side to side while keeping her head still. The way she did it looked freaky and demonic.
There was a warrior dance, a dance to entertain a king, a dance representing youth, the Bumblebee dance about a courting couple and finally a mask dance. Each dance was kind of similar but with different outfits. It was very entertaining, with the music, although maybe each dance was a bit long at about 10 minutes since it was all a bit the same.
Tuesday 23rd August
Today was a day off. From sightseeing I mean. Mostly. I slept in then did some washing. I wandered into town and did some chores. Town was very busy, the centre was gridlocked with aircon vans. I went to Ubud Palace but visitors are only allowed into the front bit so it didn't take long to look around. I went into the Water Palace which was nice, with lilies in the ponds. Some bartering for fruit in the market. I bought some bananas to give to the women and children who beg in the street. It is difficult to know whether they are genuine but I figure giving them some fruit does no harm. Mangoes for me!
For dinner I again went to a local's restaurant where you pick and choose what food you want. I didn't used to like such places as the food is mostly cold, but I like it now. I had tofu, tempe, rice, a potato fritter, jack fruit and curry sauce. Again the Taiwanese guy I had met in the hostel in Jakarta was there, we had a good chat.
Wednesday 24th August
An even more relaxed day than yesterday. Mostly hanging around the homestay but I did go to the bookshop and also I bought a new money belt as my old one has finally fallen apart. Will pack my bags tonight for Denpasar/Kuta tomorrow.
Friday 19th August
I checked out of the family homestay in Amed and got a bemo 30 minutes to Tirta Gangga (Water of the Ganges). I wanted to go for a walk around the villages and the paddy fields. I managed to get a passable not-to-scale map from the hotel and set off at 9:30am along the main road.
After about 10 minutes I found a fantastic viewpoint across the rice fields. They are terraced in places but the area is basically flat. My map suggested I could walk across the fields to Tuaka and I found a steep narrow track down into the fields where a couple of women were working. I said 'Selemat pagi' (Good morning) and they didn't seem to mind me being there. Another guy gestured for me to take the long way round, I think he had some animals in his barn that he did not want me to disturb. So I picked my way around the maze of narrow paths along the top of each small rice field.
Further along I came across a group of friendly guys who asked me for 'smokes'. Instead I gave them my chocolate biscuits which seemed to make them happy and they gave me directions. I met another older guy who had just finished ploughing with his two bulls. He was only wearing a t-shirt and undies and was up to his knees in mud.
Along the way were small thatched homes, scarecrows in the garden and irrigation canals. I managed to use my stock standard Indonesian phrases to get directions and they pointed me in the right direction; it was fun. I saw a metre-long, slimy brown snake slither up a small embankment, he was hidden in the grass before I had chance to take a photo. Eventually a guy pointed me alongside a narrow canal and I came out on a proper road, which was a bit of a disappointment really but from there I walked to Tauka.
From Tauka I walked through the village of Peladung, exchanging greetings with locals and school kids. At the main road I walked towards Amlapura, stopping for lunch and internet. I turned around before Amlapura and took the road toward Bura Keling with no particular destination in mind; 'Jalan Jalan' means 'just walking'. I passed a few old temples and then some beautiful green and orange fields.
With more helpful directions I headed towards Tanah Aron (a temple) but couldn't get a good idea from the locals about how far it was, but the walk was uphill and it was nearly 4pm when I decided not to go any further if I wanted to be sure of getting home before dark.
Using the map I started walking another way back down the hill. I passed more villages and had a bit of chat with some friendly villagers. Just off the road was a group of guys carving volcanic stone for nearby temples. They asked me for smokes so as an alternative I offered them biscuits but they were not interested in that and I felt a bit silly for offering!
Anyway, across the road was a courtyard fronted by a stone wall that looked like something from the Flintstones. Beyond it was an amazing Balinese Hindu temple with the usual scary human and animal elaborate carvings. The 3 ladies there didn't speak English so I didn't learn much about it but it looked fascinating and I did get them to write down the name of the village - Desa Umanyar. I wish I had stayed longer but the ladies were shadowing me and I felt rushed.
I kept walking to another village which seemed to be decorated ready for a festival, but again I couldn't really understand what was going on. At the end of the village I took a left along the narrow canal, pausing to give some bathing ladies chance to cover up and then covering my eyes as I passed. With another guy's help I came out back on the main road near my hotel, at about 5:45pm.
The Water Palace was still open so I had a look round. One of the pools holds some Balinese style statues, there are two bridges decorated with dragons, and a large water fountain; it is much better than the Water Palace in Yogjakarta and a good place to finish a long day.
I really enjoyed my hike today, its great to out in the countryside away from the tourist spots, I didn't see any other tourists today.
Saturday 20th August
Egg and toast and coffee for breakfast and then onto a bemo through Amlapura to Subagan. Then a public bus a couple of hours in some heavy traffic along the coast and inland to Gianyar. The bemo slowed down a couple of times so that the guy who collects the money could make an offering of flowers and incense to the spirits at the shrines along the way, to ensure a safe journey. A nice lady on the bus gave me 2 mangosteins. From Gianyar, or maybe it was somewhere else, I waited on the corner for only about 15 minutes before a bemo picked me up for the last 10kms to Ubud.
I dragged my bag around the centre of Ubud and the backstreets looking for a cheap place to stay, but it is expensive here because there are many tourists because there are many cultural things to see and do in and around Ubud. Anyway, after 45 minutes I found a cheaper, nice place 1km out of town, thanks to the LP. The family is nice and I have a big room, ensuite with hot water and breakfast included, which is relative luxury for me. I am used to cold showers/bucket baths now but it's quite cool in the evening so a warm shower is good.
I have 5 days here so I am in no hurry. I walked to the centre of town and had a look around. At the main market I saw mainly souvenirs, some of it looks mass produced and you can buy lots of tat such as miniature rock-group-themed guitars (e.g. Kiss, AC/DC) and even boomerangs with Aboriginal patterns on them. Still, I have yet to visit the temples and there should be plenty of things to see and do outside of the centre. I came back to the hotel and pottered about here while listening to some Indian music I got in Rajasthan. My room is an individual brick building set in a garden among other more elaborately decorated rooms.
In the evening I headed out for dinner and to watch the football. I thought my only choice was to watch it in the expensive expats sports bar, but along the way a small local restaurant had a TV showing Shaun the Sheep and I took a chance and asked if they would be watching the football later; the staff guy said "Yes, I always watch the football", so I had dinner there and watched Liverpool beat Arsenal. By coincidence a guy from Taiwan who I shared a dorm room with in Jakarta was also in there.
Not suprisingly after so long on the raod, things are starting to fall apart; zips are broken, my pockets have holes in and my laptop's memory card reader is faulty.
Sunday 21st August
I rented a decent mountain bike and headed out of Ubud. The roads were fairly busy but I know how Indonesian traffic works now. After about half an hour I stopped at Goa Gajah (Elephant cave). Dressed in my sarong I went down the stone steps and at the bottom is a pool with some female statues pouring water into the pool. The small cave is carved into the rock face and thought to be 1000 years old. You enter through the mouth of a demon and inside is a small lingam representing Shiva and also a statue of Ganesh, the elephant god.
Back on the bike I visited Pura Samuan Tiga temple which is pretty similar to the other temples in Bali. They sometimes seem to me to look run down and abandoned although there were a few locals walking through, and one or two interesting statues. A bit further up the road was a cremation ceremony.
I got on to the main road to Tampaksiring and passed through some roadside villages and some rice paddies. What I hadn't known was that the road to Tampaksiring is virtually all uphill; not always very steep but a gradual unrelenting ascent for about 12 kms. I had to stop for a rest quite often, and usually did so when I saw a local whom I could ask "Berapa kilometers?" (How far?). I should have had more breakfast, I was exhausted and felt a little faint! It made me think about how tough those Tour de France guys must be (the ones not on drugs, that is.)
The steepest part was going through Tampaksiring but eventually I came to the entrance for Gunung Kawi. After lunch I walked down steep steps, with other tourists, between the lovely rice paddies. At the bottom are ten 8 metre high shrines cut into the rock. There are 4 on one side of the river, 5 on the other and the other one is a km away. Well it was fairly impressive but not overwhelming. There was a normal temple there and a Chilean TV documentary crew.
My reward for making it up the hill was that for most of the way back down the hill to Ubud I was freewheeling, stopping sometimes to take photos. I did take a different way back into town that did involve some very steep uphills so I just got off and pushed. I got some nice pictures of some girls working in the rice paddies; they were smiley. But some other young girls at the roadside were grumpy with me because I did not have pens to give them; even 2 biscuits each did not appease them.
Although I was starting to be over looking at temples, I stopped at Pura Pucak Payogan temple because there were lots of locals there and something seemed to be going on. There were some guys carving and some other men and women were crafting offerings. I asked a lady why and she said the offerings were to celebrate the temple's birthday on the 30th of August. The work was clearly defined along gender lines. I was curious as to whether this many people can afford time off work to do this. The lady said that after the birthday they will probably be at another temple, so maybe it is their full-time paid job?
I went for a ride around the south of Ubud but got a bit lost so came back the same way. I was ready for a rest then anyway after 7 hours with the bike. I had dinner here at the homestay.
Monday 22nd August
Today's mission was to do two of the 8km hikes shown in the LP. I walked down Monkey Forest Road to the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary where there are monkeys in the forest! We watched the monkeys play fighting and chasing eachother around and sitting on tourists heads and taking bananas from people. I went into the temple but started to think I have seen enough temples.
I walked out of the back of the sanctuary down to the main road and off the road along a track through the rice paddies. Eventually I came out on the road to Penestanan. There are many artists' shops along the way and some of the paintings looked interesting but I am not really into that and the shops are not pushy.
Back in town I had lunch and then started my second hike. I crossed the small river and then walked up the ridge along a concrete path and past some more rice fields and local artists to a small village; it seemed more peaceful and remote up there and I preferred it to this morning's walk. After the village I walked along the (sometimes steep) main road back to Ubud.
In the evening I walked to Ubud Palace in the town centre to watch the Legong traditional dance performance. It started to rain beforehand so they moved us across the road to a sheltered meeting pavilion. I was pretty near the front and had a good view. There were two instrumental performances and 6 different dances accompanied by the Gamelan orchestra. For the first dance, 6 ladies came out in bright gold and maroon dresses and elaborate headresses. They dance with jerky synchronized moves and a kind of half smile. I don't know how they remember so many intricate movements. I watched the dancer closest to me; she was wearing blue and pink eyeshadow and she would quickly move her pupils from side to side while keeping her head still. The way she did it looked freaky and demonic.
There was a warrior dance, a dance to entertain a king, a dance representing youth, the Bumblebee dance about a courting couple and finally a mask dance. Each dance was kind of similar but with different outfits. It was very entertaining, with the music, although maybe each dance was a bit long at about 10 minutes since it was all a bit the same.
Tuesday 23rd August
Today was a day off. From sightseeing I mean. Mostly. I slept in then did some washing. I wandered into town and did some chores. Town was very busy, the centre was gridlocked with aircon vans. I went to Ubud Palace but visitors are only allowed into the front bit so it didn't take long to look around. I went into the Water Palace which was nice, with lilies in the ponds. Some bartering for fruit in the market. I bought some bananas to give to the women and children who beg in the street. It is difficult to know whether they are genuine but I figure giving them some fruit does no harm. Mangoes for me!
For dinner I again went to a local's restaurant where you pick and choose what food you want. I didn't used to like such places as the food is mostly cold, but I like it now. I had tofu, tempe, rice, a potato fritter, jack fruit and curry sauce. Again the Taiwanese guy I had met in the hostel in Jakarta was there, we had a good chat.
Wednesday 24th August
An even more relaxed day than yesterday. Mostly hanging around the homestay but I did go to the bookshop and also I bought a new money belt as my old one has finally fallen apart. Will pack my bags tonight for Denpasar/Kuta tomorrow.
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