Saturday 25th Septmber
Yesterday evening, we went a bit crazy and went out for a, relatively, expensive dinner. We went to Cercis Murat Konagi, as recommended by Lonely Planet, because, apparently the kitchen is run by women, which is unusual since in this part of the world, women don't work, they stay at home. Well, we didnt see any women and the waiters were hovering around a bit much as we ate. But the Syrian style spicy meatballs in bread and yoghurt, with chopped tomato and cucumber salad were fantastic. We went to a bar for a drink, but apart from two guys playing Turkish music and a couple of ladies that were surely prostitutes, nobody was there so we went back to the hotel.
So today we crossed the border from Southeastern Turkey into Irqai Kurdistan. Both Andrew and I had read the Lonely Planet chapter on Iraqi Kurdistan when we were still on the truck with Africa Trails and we were intrigued that there is another side to Iraq that is safe and welcoming but off the usual tourist path. We did our research from the Lonely Planet Middle East book, the Lonely Planet online forum, and even the UK Govt travel advisory website, which is usually overcautious, said it is safe to travel here, different from the rest of Iraq which is known as Arabic Iraq. So, coming here was the main point of travelling through Turkey, to get here. And it is Andrew's birthday, so why not spend it in two countries!
The plan went exactly as the Lonely Planet described, but all the same it was an excellent adventure.
We left Mardin at 9am on a full, normal, aircon bus. I slept a bit along the way but at midday we arrived at Silopi bus station, but as the taxi drivers informed us, this was not where you get to Iraqi Kurdistan from. So we got a 10TL white-knuckle ride taxi into Silopi proper. As soon as the taxi pulled up in town, a young guy surrounded by a few taxi drivers said he could take us across the border. This was what we expected and were hoping for.
He wrote down our passport details, we gave him $20 each and we put our bags in the trunk and sat in the taxi and waited for a driver. Meanwhile a few kids kept opening our doors and tapping our arms and asking for money, but i don't think they were really starving, just being cheeky.
The driver came back and put an old guy in the back with me and Andrew. He had something wrong with his left leg which meant he couldn't bend it so his left leg was stuck inbetween the two front seats, in front of me as i was in the middle in the back. He was a friendly chap and spoke some English. A Turkish/Kurdish girl, called Aysel, about 25, sat in the front and off we went to the Turkish border.
We had to give the driver 15TL to buy our Turkish exit stamp, which we hadn't known about but i think was genuine, and we had to get out and show ourselves to the Turkish border guys as we left. Our taxi was allowed to bypass the long line of trucks.
Still in the same taxi, we crossed to the Ibrahim Halil Irqai Kurdistan border post and went into what looked like an airport arrivals lounge to get our passports checked and stamped . Again, we seemed to get ahead of the line, and the driver and the Aysel pointed us in the right direction. The officials beckoned Andrew and I into a side office and asked us why we were here and which places we are visiting and we gave simple honest answers and it was fine. A few minutes later we got a Republic of Iraqi Kurdistan ten day visa. The five of us got back into the taxi. As we crossed the border, Aysel looked round, smiled and said "welcome to Kurdistan." We had made it!
The taxi dropped us off near some other taxis and the old guy disappeared. Andrew, Aysel and I then got into another $10 each taxi to Dohuk. The taxis were big powerful Toyotas and our driver was driving too fast, and he was the only one with a functioning seat belt. But we covered the 50kms to Dohuk in about 25 minutes. The scenery was a bit bleak, but when we arrived in Dohuk it was a bustling town. Andrew and I got out at the Parmalan Hotel and Aysel carried on to Uni where she is studying English.
We checked in and went off to buy some Iraqi dinar. Got a favourable exchange rate. As we had read, Dohuk, and Kurdistan generally, is fairly westernised; the American influence. Americans are quite revered here after George Bush helped them alot after the first Gulf War. The shops are quite modern, lots of tech shops as well as modern bazaar. Alot more women around than where we were the last few days; some have their hair covered but most are dressed in western clothes. We got a great shwarma, soup, salad and tea for $1.50. A bit windy and hazy, felt like a sandstorm was coming.
Chilled out in our small hotel room for an hour or two watching CNN etc. Walked along the main street and got kebab and salad, again. Went for a walk to see what Kurds get up to in the evening, again, mainly only guys around. Eventually found a shop selling beer (Heiniken!) so got a couple as it was Andrew's birthday. On the way back, in a park just under a bridge we found about 150 guys sitting around small tables playing dominoes and cards and tile rummy, smoking. So this is what they get up to on a Saturday night, rather than drinking ten pints and falling over like westerns do!
We put the beer in the hotel fridge for later and went across the road to the Sports Bar, for a Sheesha since there was no bar to drink in. By chance Iraq were playing Yemen at soccer so we watched it with the locals while smoking an Apple sheesha. And Iraq scored and won so the six or seven locals were cheering. Normally we would have been smoking the sheesha with 5 or 6 other people when we were on the truck, so after just Andrew and I got stuck into it, I certainly felt a bit wobbly and it was very hot in there. So after the game we left and went and chilled out in the room and drank the beer. A successful night out.
Sunday 26th Septmeber
We left the hotel at 9am and straight into a taxi to the 'garage' which is where you go to get a shared taxi from one town to another. At the garage we immediately found a cab with two other guys to bring us to Sulav (seelav). Again the driver went as quickly as he could so it didnt take long to cover the 60kms. Scenery was good, up and down the valley. Different from Southeastern Turkey. Sulav is a very small town on the side of the valley. At the hotel, the guy gave us a room with no real back wall, its just the cliff, with a tribrutary of the stream running alongside, inside the room, which was novel and made the room cool. But there were also a few big spiders in there and lots of flies so moved rooms.
After a mid-morning kebab, we looked for a taxi to take us the 5kms uphill to the town of Amedi, which is on a rock overlooking the valley. We found a driver snoring on his back so left him alone. Then Andrew got talking to a local who lives in Amedi and he offered us a lift up there. The views of the valley were good and it was bigger and more developed than we expected, big cars and modern dress, but still Kurdish. We had a look round and said hello to people then walked back down to Sulav, which took about an hour.
After a break we walked up to the waterfall, behind our hotel. The stream is quite narrow and the cafes have plastic chairs and tables in the stream so you can eat while bathing your feet. There were quite a few families around as Sunday is picnic day. The waterfall wasnt very impressive but as we reached the top there was a group of about 12 guys sitting on a big mat; one of them had just finished praying. Another guy gestured for us to sit with them, which I wasnt sure about if its was prayer time.
But they were very welcoming. Turned out they were police and firemen from another town, having an afternoon out together. One was Christian, the others Muslim. They didnt speak much English but we exchanged names and a few jokes. They then got out their lunch, which was beans in a sauce and something like pilau rice. They didnt ask us if we wanted any, they just laid it out in front of us, to share, because, to them, that is the right thing to do. I wasnt really hungry as we had had the kebab earlier but of course it would have been rude to say no. Anyway, it tasted good so got into it. We all sat in a big circle on the mat and ate together. And had Earl Grey tea too. And one of the guys made Andrew dance close to him to Shakira (it was on the guy's mobile phone). They played dominoes and cards but Andrew and I were happy to watch. After a few more photos Andrew and I walked back down to the town, and our hotel.
While I was shaving, Nasir, who now lives in Stoke-on-Trent, England but is was born and bred here, came and introduced himself. When i told him we are going to Erbil tomorrow, he near-on insisted on driving us there, even though he wasn't going that way. That has been one of the highlights so far; the Kurdish hospitality.
Monday 27th September
So, as arranged, Nasir picked us up from the hotel and we headed for Erbil, or Hawler in Kurdish, which caused a bit of confusion between us for a while. Nasir is still learning English. We drove for about 3 hours on good roads, through the countryside, stopping for water along the way, with Nasir's choice of Shakira on the CD player.
Erbil is a big city, a million people, so it took us quite a while to find the hotel, with Nasir asking for directions. We tried to buy Nasir lunch to say thank you for driving us here, but he kind of pushed passed me and insisted on paying for us. We might catch up with Nasir again in Dohuk.
Andrew and i walked through the bazaar to the Citadel which sits on a 30 metre-high mound. It was lived in until a few years ago but became a bit overcrowded so they paid people to leave cos it was getting out of control. But it is said to be one of the most continuously inhabited places in the world so they let one family stay, to maintain the record. So now it is a ghost town, but UNESCO are renovating some of the houses with the hope of attracting tourists in the future; we had a chat with one of the civil engineers working there. Had a look at the textiles museum, lots of carpets on the wall, from different times and places. Next we headed out to the Martyr Sami Abdul Rahman Park. Got a bit lost on the way, blame the signposts, but when we did find it was green and pleasant and quiet. Its made up of a number of small gardens, which probably get busy at the weekend, and a couple of man-made lakes with paddle boats. On the way out we paused at the memorial to the 98 people killed in a twin suicide attack in the city in 2004; the park is named after the Deputy Prime Minsiter who was also killed.
We walked back into the city and eventually found a small, dusty internet cafe above the bazaar. Only one PC worked so while Andrew used it, i used the owner's PC. After dinner of kebab, salad, rice and beans I had a quick walk around by myself. There were lots of people in the nearby park which had fountains and coloured light bulbs. A nice atmosphere.
24.9.10
Dogubayazit., Van, Mardin
Wednesday 22nd September
Well, today, the same as yesterday, there were hardly any women around in Dogubayazit. There are plenty of men sitting around chatting in the main street, but only one or two women. This is obviously a cultural thing.
We got on the 8am bus to Van. We soon came upon Lake Van (3750-sq-km). The water looked good enough to swim in. We arrived in Van and found a pretty good hotel room, en suite, though the flush doesn't work, but throwing buckets of water down does.
Our plan was to walk 4kms to Van Castle but it started to get lost. A waiter hanging outside a restaurant indicated to wait 5 minutes for a bus and soon enough there it was and we were on our way. They dropped us near the castle which is on top of a rock but it still took ages to find the entrance; at one point we had walked up the rock but couldnt scale the wall! When we did eventually pay and go in and up, it wasnt much of a castle anyway, but the views of Lake Van and the town of Van made it wortwhile. Met a cool Californian chick. We then worked out how we could have got in without paying and went back out that way.
Mid-afternoon we got kebabs again and then had a big session on the internet. Cancelled my Uzbekistan flights; visas are too much trouble. Not much of a refund so have lost quite alot of cash, but relieved also. Will make the cash back in other ways.
Well, i had a kebab again for dinner. They are so much cheaper than proper dishes and fill you up. Bit over them, though.
We bought our tickets for Mardin for tomorrow. As with the other locals we have interacted with, the guys selling the bus tickets were really helpful given that they don't speak English and we have been useless at remembering any Turkish. They even used google translator to make sure we understood the bus times etc. The people here have been great.
So we have stopped in three towns this week and enjoyed each of them. We have been to three of the 'must-see' landmarks, and while they have been fairly impressive it didnt take long to look around each one which was kind of disappointing. But we have certainly seen the countryside and tasted some of the life of Eastern Turkey.
Young Turkish men, especially on the Eastern Side, greet and say goodbye to eachother by brushing each temple against the other's temple. And at times seem more tactile with eachother than at home.
Thursday 23rd September
Got on the minibus at 730am and it took us across town and sat there for at least half an hour, but thats ok. They gave me a cup of black Turkish tea, its ok with 3 sugar lumps. The guys were keen to see if i liked it so i drank it quickly and burned my tongue, but it was good. They taught us some Kurdish words and stressed that they are all Kurdish, not Turkish. South Eastern Anatolia (the Asian side of Turkey) is mostly Kurdish and they would like to be a seperate country or at least have more autonomy.
The minibus did stop fairly often, but we only passed through Batman, maybe it has a reputation for Robin'. By now the minibus was packed with well-dressed locals in Hilfiger jeans and smart shirts. The scenery was great, especially the gorge and Hasankeyf where there are remnants of a fallen bridge and settlement along the river. Shame we didnt stop, especially as it is probably soon gonna be flooded for a dam.
At Midyat the driver unloaded us and made sure we got onto a bus the rest of the way to Mardin, which was what we had paid for. At Mardin, after walking up a steep hill for at least a km, it took ages to find somewhere to stay. The hotels are posh and expensive but thanks to the internet and Lonely Planet forum we found about out Hotel Bashak and eventually found it. A bit of a dive but cheapest in town, though still more expensive than Istanbul.
We still didnt see many women, well apart from old ladies, until we approached Mardin. Then a lovely couple of girls got on the bus. They were quite westernised. And we managed to get kofte stew (and Turkish bread) for dinner.
Friday 24th September
Long sleep in, because we could. Posh hotel across the road let us use their wi-fi in their garden cafe. Checked bus time for tomorrow. Long wander around Mardin, through the bazaar, a few mosques and a cool medresesi (Islamic school) which doesn't seem to be used anymore. There is a castle on the hill but we were told that we can't get up there. I think they were saying that the army is stationed up there. There has been an army presence in this area and in the town, presumably because of the ongoing Turkish/Kurdish issue, but there is no tension, its a lovely town. We had a delicious over-priced freshly-squeezed orange juice and an even more over-priced but even more delicious baklava (turkish sweet pastry). This was my first baklava, but not my last. We should also have had green tea by now but haven't got round to it. In the internet cafe last night they brought round Turkish tea, which was very civilised. In what other countries would that happen?
Well, today, the same as yesterday, there were hardly any women around in Dogubayazit. There are plenty of men sitting around chatting in the main street, but only one or two women. This is obviously a cultural thing.
We got on the 8am bus to Van. We soon came upon Lake Van (3750-sq-km). The water looked good enough to swim in. We arrived in Van and found a pretty good hotel room, en suite, though the flush doesn't work, but throwing buckets of water down does.
Our plan was to walk 4kms to Van Castle but it started to get lost. A waiter hanging outside a restaurant indicated to wait 5 minutes for a bus and soon enough there it was and we were on our way. They dropped us near the castle which is on top of a rock but it still took ages to find the entrance; at one point we had walked up the rock but couldnt scale the wall! When we did eventually pay and go in and up, it wasnt much of a castle anyway, but the views of Lake Van and the town of Van made it wortwhile. Met a cool Californian chick. We then worked out how we could have got in without paying and went back out that way.
Mid-afternoon we got kebabs again and then had a big session on the internet. Cancelled my Uzbekistan flights; visas are too much trouble. Not much of a refund so have lost quite alot of cash, but relieved also. Will make the cash back in other ways.
Well, i had a kebab again for dinner. They are so much cheaper than proper dishes and fill you up. Bit over them, though.
We bought our tickets for Mardin for tomorrow. As with the other locals we have interacted with, the guys selling the bus tickets were really helpful given that they don't speak English and we have been useless at remembering any Turkish. They even used google translator to make sure we understood the bus times etc. The people here have been great.
So we have stopped in three towns this week and enjoyed each of them. We have been to three of the 'must-see' landmarks, and while they have been fairly impressive it didnt take long to look around each one which was kind of disappointing. But we have certainly seen the countryside and tasted some of the life of Eastern Turkey.
Young Turkish men, especially on the Eastern Side, greet and say goodbye to eachother by brushing each temple against the other's temple. And at times seem more tactile with eachother than at home.
Thursday 23rd September
Got on the minibus at 730am and it took us across town and sat there for at least half an hour, but thats ok. They gave me a cup of black Turkish tea, its ok with 3 sugar lumps. The guys were keen to see if i liked it so i drank it quickly and burned my tongue, but it was good. They taught us some Kurdish words and stressed that they are all Kurdish, not Turkish. South Eastern Anatolia (the Asian side of Turkey) is mostly Kurdish and they would like to be a seperate country or at least have more autonomy.
The minibus did stop fairly often, but we only passed through Batman, maybe it has a reputation for Robin'. By now the minibus was packed with well-dressed locals in Hilfiger jeans and smart shirts. The scenery was great, especially the gorge and Hasankeyf where there are remnants of a fallen bridge and settlement along the river. Shame we didnt stop, especially as it is probably soon gonna be flooded for a dam.
At Midyat the driver unloaded us and made sure we got onto a bus the rest of the way to Mardin, which was what we had paid for. At Mardin, after walking up a steep hill for at least a km, it took ages to find somewhere to stay. The hotels are posh and expensive but thanks to the internet and Lonely Planet forum we found about out Hotel Bashak and eventually found it. A bit of a dive but cheapest in town, though still more expensive than Istanbul.
We still didnt see many women, well apart from old ladies, until we approached Mardin. Then a lovely couple of girls got on the bus. They were quite westernised. And we managed to get kofte stew (and Turkish bread) for dinner.
Friday 24th September
Long sleep in, because we could. Posh hotel across the road let us use their wi-fi in their garden cafe. Checked bus time for tomorrow. Long wander around Mardin, through the bazaar, a few mosques and a cool medresesi (Islamic school) which doesn't seem to be used anymore. There is a castle on the hill but we were told that we can't get up there. I think they were saying that the army is stationed up there. There has been an army presence in this area and in the town, presumably because of the ongoing Turkish/Kurdish issue, but there is no tension, its a lovely town. We had a delicious over-priced freshly-squeezed orange juice and an even more over-priced but even more delicious baklava (turkish sweet pastry). This was my first baklava, but not my last. We should also have had green tea by now but haven't got round to it. In the internet cafe last night they brought round Turkish tea, which was very civilised. In what other countries would that happen?
22.9.10
Eastern Turkey
(sorry ıts a bıt long....)
Saturday 18th September
The guys got home last night, with stories of a brawl with a local guy and a broken nose. Breakfast togther and wandering and changing money. Sat near the mosques, loads of armed police around; we think this was because some American Greeks had said they wanted to have a service in one of the mosques, but technically it is a museum now so services are not allowed. Of course this might not explain the firepower, but thats what we understood from the locals. Anyway, nothing happened. After lunch, Andrew and I said goodbye for the last time to Spots, Sarah, Paige, Jess and Dan. We got the tram and then Light Rail (we would call it the subway) to the Otogar (main bus station, probably the biggest I have ever seen!) and departed on the overnight bus for Trabzon, which is on the Black Sea COast. The bus was smart, TV, aircon, comfy seats and wi-fi! A stop every four hours, i slept ok.
Sunday 19th September
In the morning the bus passed along the scenic Black Sea and some mountains. We had heard that the bus would take 22 hours, but it only took 18, so we arrived here at lunchtime. It is quite a nice small city, population 400k, cheaper than Istanbul, population 12million. We got our bus tickets for tomorrow nights departure, and organised to go to the monastery tomorrow. Of course, getting overnight buses saves on accomodation so pleased with that. After a bit of wandering, found a good 3 star hotel, Hotel Can, good value. And only 1 other tourist which makes a change from Istanbul. Its a little cooler on this side of Turkey, but still a quite warm and a bit cloudy. After another kebab, averaging 2 a day, watched the 2nd half of United and Liverpool in the pub. A bit over kebabs so a whopper for dinner...
Monday 20th September
Today's mission was to check out Sumela Monastery, 45kms out of Trabzon. Had free breakfast at the Hotel, bread, butter, jam, cucumber, tomato, no fetta? and coffee. Left our bags in the communal area and went to the bus ticket office. Waited for about an hour then on the minibus to Sumela. Off the main road, its uphill through evegreen forests past a rushing stream, a bit like a mini version of the rocky mountains. Then you catch sight of the monastery up above, clinging to the sheer the cliff. It was originally built in Byzantine times. The minibus dropped us off and its a short walk to the entrance.
Through the entrance, you look down onto the chapel, which has frescoes inside and out. Some frescoes are from the 9th century but most from the 19th century. There is also quite alot damage where people have inscribed their names, including Russian and Turkish tourists and American airmen from the 1960s. The fresoes were good but it didnt take long to walk around.
We took our time to walk back down the road to meet the minibus. The views of the monastery from below were better than being inside the monastery. Anyway, halfway down i realised that i didnt have my money belt on. Clearly this is not a good situation, especially when it contains 2 passports, 2 credit cards and about $1000 in various currencies. I was a bit freaked out but then remembered that it had been on our hotel room floor earlier so was pretty sure it would still be there, or the cleaner would have found it, and they seemed trustworthy at the hotel.
Had to wait another hour until the bus took us back and then a bit anxious about my stuff on the journey back. And when i got to the hotel, they didnt have it. The owner didnt speak much English but he let us check the room and he asked the cleaner who said she had not seen it when she cleaned the room. A couple of German/Turkish guys helped translate for me, and we even checked the rubbish in the cellar. Now i was freaking out a bit, they suggested that it had been taken from round my waist, but i normally stick it in down my shorts. Anyway, I got Andrew to go to the bus station since that was the only other place we had been, though i was still convinced I had left it in the hotel. But Andrew came back saying that the bus company said they had it...but it wasnt there right now. Basically we had to wait an hour or so, then lo and behold an older guy and two young girls walked in with it! They didnt speak English so we had no idea how they had got hold of it or anything, but there was nothing missing, all the cash and everything was still there. I am a very lucky boy! It had been a stressful afternoon and i felt bad for letting it happen and still dont know how or where i lost it. I dont see how it could have fallen off without me noticing..
We headed straight for the otogar, main bus station. The bus left a bit late, but nevermind. They served us fizzy orange again and played loud movies. I was happy reading my Japanese novel and thanking my lucky stars. God bless the people of Trabzon!
Tuesday 21 September.
After some very strange dreams and a restless night on the bus, woke up proper around 6am, just as the sun was coming up. As we left Igdir, snow-capped Mount Ararat (5137m) came into view, the sun coming around it. We also passed some rugged landscape and some small rural villages with people tending their cows and sheep. It was just as I imagined this part of Turkey and I was pleased that I have taken the trouble to come over to this side of Turkey.
We arrived at Dogubayazit at 7am. It is a small town and easy to find Hotel Erzurum, especially when friendly locals gave us directions. After a nap we headed out for breakfast. Only the bakery seemed open. Then a guy said in broken English "Everything else is closed today for Kurdish demonstration. If shop opens..." and he swiped his finger across his throat. Ok, bread it is then. He was right, everything else was closed, apart from a guy sellling Kofte and salad in bread in the bus station car park. That was perfect anyway.
We then got a minibus 6kms up the hill to the ruins of Ishak Pasa Palace which was first built in 1685 and is dramatically set on the hill. It has Seljuk, Ottoman, Georgian, Persian and Armenian architecture but wasnt that exciting inside. As with the monastery yesterday, the outside and setting make the Palace worth a visit. We walked back down the hill, rugged landscapes and views of Mount Ararat and a few shops were open on the edge of town, but the centre is still closed.
p.s. cancelled flıght to Uzbekıstan. cant be bothered wıth the vısa hassles....
Saturday 18th September
The guys got home last night, with stories of a brawl with a local guy and a broken nose. Breakfast togther and wandering and changing money. Sat near the mosques, loads of armed police around; we think this was because some American Greeks had said they wanted to have a service in one of the mosques, but technically it is a museum now so services are not allowed. Of course this might not explain the firepower, but thats what we understood from the locals. Anyway, nothing happened. After lunch, Andrew and I said goodbye for the last time to Spots, Sarah, Paige, Jess and Dan. We got the tram and then Light Rail (we would call it the subway) to the Otogar (main bus station, probably the biggest I have ever seen!) and departed on the overnight bus for Trabzon, which is on the Black Sea COast. The bus was smart, TV, aircon, comfy seats and wi-fi! A stop every four hours, i slept ok.
Sunday 19th September
In the morning the bus passed along the scenic Black Sea and some mountains. We had heard that the bus would take 22 hours, but it only took 18, so we arrived here at lunchtime. It is quite a nice small city, population 400k, cheaper than Istanbul, population 12million. We got our bus tickets for tomorrow nights departure, and organised to go to the monastery tomorrow. Of course, getting overnight buses saves on accomodation so pleased with that. After a bit of wandering, found a good 3 star hotel, Hotel Can, good value. And only 1 other tourist which makes a change from Istanbul. Its a little cooler on this side of Turkey, but still a quite warm and a bit cloudy. After another kebab, averaging 2 a day, watched the 2nd half of United and Liverpool in the pub. A bit over kebabs so a whopper for dinner...
Monday 20th September
Today's mission was to check out Sumela Monastery, 45kms out of Trabzon. Had free breakfast at the Hotel, bread, butter, jam, cucumber, tomato, no fetta? and coffee. Left our bags in the communal area and went to the bus ticket office. Waited for about an hour then on the minibus to Sumela. Off the main road, its uphill through evegreen forests past a rushing stream, a bit like a mini version of the rocky mountains. Then you catch sight of the monastery up above, clinging to the sheer the cliff. It was originally built in Byzantine times. The minibus dropped us off and its a short walk to the entrance.
Through the entrance, you look down onto the chapel, which has frescoes inside and out. Some frescoes are from the 9th century but most from the 19th century. There is also quite alot damage where people have inscribed their names, including Russian and Turkish tourists and American airmen from the 1960s. The fresoes were good but it didnt take long to walk around.
We took our time to walk back down the road to meet the minibus. The views of the monastery from below were better than being inside the monastery. Anyway, halfway down i realised that i didnt have my money belt on. Clearly this is not a good situation, especially when it contains 2 passports, 2 credit cards and about $1000 in various currencies. I was a bit freaked out but then remembered that it had been on our hotel room floor earlier so was pretty sure it would still be there, or the cleaner would have found it, and they seemed trustworthy at the hotel.
Had to wait another hour until the bus took us back and then a bit anxious about my stuff on the journey back. And when i got to the hotel, they didnt have it. The owner didnt speak much English but he let us check the room and he asked the cleaner who said she had not seen it when she cleaned the room. A couple of German/Turkish guys helped translate for me, and we even checked the rubbish in the cellar. Now i was freaking out a bit, they suggested that it had been taken from round my waist, but i normally stick it in down my shorts. Anyway, I got Andrew to go to the bus station since that was the only other place we had been, though i was still convinced I had left it in the hotel. But Andrew came back saying that the bus company said they had it...but it wasnt there right now. Basically we had to wait an hour or so, then lo and behold an older guy and two young girls walked in with it! They didnt speak English so we had no idea how they had got hold of it or anything, but there was nothing missing, all the cash and everything was still there. I am a very lucky boy! It had been a stressful afternoon and i felt bad for letting it happen and still dont know how or where i lost it. I dont see how it could have fallen off without me noticing..
We headed straight for the otogar, main bus station. The bus left a bit late, but nevermind. They served us fizzy orange again and played loud movies. I was happy reading my Japanese novel and thanking my lucky stars. God bless the people of Trabzon!
Tuesday 21 September.
After some very strange dreams and a restless night on the bus, woke up proper around 6am, just as the sun was coming up. As we left Igdir, snow-capped Mount Ararat (5137m) came into view, the sun coming around it. We also passed some rugged landscape and some small rural villages with people tending their cows and sheep. It was just as I imagined this part of Turkey and I was pleased that I have taken the trouble to come over to this side of Turkey.
We arrived at Dogubayazit at 7am. It is a small town and easy to find Hotel Erzurum, especially when friendly locals gave us directions. After a nap we headed out for breakfast. Only the bakery seemed open. Then a guy said in broken English "Everything else is closed today for Kurdish demonstration. If shop opens..." and he swiped his finger across his throat. Ok, bread it is then. He was right, everything else was closed, apart from a guy sellling Kofte and salad in bread in the bus station car park. That was perfect anyway.
We then got a minibus 6kms up the hill to the ruins of Ishak Pasa Palace which was first built in 1685 and is dramatically set on the hill. It has Seljuk, Ottoman, Georgian, Persian and Armenian architecture but wasnt that exciting inside. As with the monastery yesterday, the outside and setting make the Palace worth a visit. We walked back down the hill, rugged landscapes and views of Mount Ararat and a few shops were open on the edge of town, but the centre is still closed.
p.s. cancelled flıght to Uzbekıstan. cant be bothered wıth the vısa hassles....
18.9.10
Istanbul
Friday 17 September
The young ones have gone out for the night, with Mac who leaves tomorrow. Hopefully when they get back at 4am there will be less drunken snoring than the other night, especially from Spots who sounded like he was using a straw to slurp up the dregs of a drink; had to put me earplugs in. Pesky kids :')
A busy day today, once I got up. Breakfast at the hostel, then on the tram with Spots and Sarah as far as Kabatas. Walked up steep steps to Taksim Square. The guys walked around Taksim and I went to find the Indian Embassy. Managed to get lost a bit, despite Chileans directions. Picked up application forms but didnt wait around to ask questions; too many people. The main thing was finding out where it was for when i am ready to apply. And the same for the Uzbekistan Embassy, since I knew it was a long way out of town. So after a bit of waiting around, finally found a helpful guy at the bus stop and he put me on the right bus to Istinye.
Bus a bit crowded at times but a great view of the Bosphorus River, bridges and sailing boats. After about 30 minutes the driver told me we had arrived and i jumped off. It was llike a small fishing town, with small cafes a peaceful vibe and no tourists. Asked a few people and they directed me up the steep hill to the embassy, which of course was shut. But got some info from a guy outside who spoke good English. Went to the internet cafe and they told me stuff and I found the bank that I will have to go to as part of the visa application process.
Finally, rang the embassy when i got home and they said that if i have all the necessary papers, they can process it the same day. For the Uzbekistan visa I need to get a Letter of Invitation, which you get through an on-line company, and should take ten days. The Indian visa usually starts from the day you get it which is why I am not getting it yet. Anyway, so, I booked my flights from Istanbul to Tashkent to Delhi. Slightly scary in terms of making it all happen and also at over $700. But glad i have got the process under way. Of course, all this meant not much sightseeing but i certainly know my way around a bit now, and will have almost 2 weeks in Istanbul when we get back from our tour of the rest of the country.
We have had the dorm to ourselves the last few days, but tonight a Chilean lady arrived. She reminds us of our Chileans and is sweet. She works in IT for a bank and can't understand how we could have had a 10 month holiday when she has worked all year for this 3 week vacation.
The young ones have gone out for the night, with Mac who leaves tomorrow. Hopefully when they get back at 4am there will be less drunken snoring than the other night, especially from Spots who sounded like he was using a straw to slurp up the dregs of a drink; had to put me earplugs in. Pesky kids :')
A busy day today, once I got up. Breakfast at the hostel, then on the tram with Spots and Sarah as far as Kabatas. Walked up steep steps to Taksim Square. The guys walked around Taksim and I went to find the Indian Embassy. Managed to get lost a bit, despite Chileans directions. Picked up application forms but didnt wait around to ask questions; too many people. The main thing was finding out where it was for when i am ready to apply. And the same for the Uzbekistan Embassy, since I knew it was a long way out of town. So after a bit of waiting around, finally found a helpful guy at the bus stop and he put me on the right bus to Istinye.
Bus a bit crowded at times but a great view of the Bosphorus River, bridges and sailing boats. After about 30 minutes the driver told me we had arrived and i jumped off. It was llike a small fishing town, with small cafes a peaceful vibe and no tourists. Asked a few people and they directed me up the steep hill to the embassy, which of course was shut. But got some info from a guy outside who spoke good English. Went to the internet cafe and they told me stuff and I found the bank that I will have to go to as part of the visa application process.
Finally, rang the embassy when i got home and they said that if i have all the necessary papers, they can process it the same day. For the Uzbekistan visa I need to get a Letter of Invitation, which you get through an on-line company, and should take ten days. The Indian visa usually starts from the day you get it which is why I am not getting it yet. Anyway, so, I booked my flights from Istanbul to Tashkent to Delhi. Slightly scary in terms of making it all happen and also at over $700. But glad i have got the process under way. Of course, all this meant not much sightseeing but i certainly know my way around a bit now, and will have almost 2 weeks in Istanbul when we get back from our tour of the rest of the country.
We have had the dorm to ourselves the last few days, but tonight a Chilean lady arrived. She reminds us of our Chileans and is sweet. She works in IT for a bank and can't understand how we could have had a 10 month holiday when she has worked all year for this 3 week vacation.
16.9.10
Selcuk to Gallipoli to Istanbul
Monday 13 September
A long day on the road today along the west coast, and the Agean Sea, through Izmir which was hit by a terrible earthqauke a few years back. We arrived at the gates to Troy but we had heard that there really isnt much to see and also we were ruined out, so only two guys went in while the rest of us sat on the top of the truck chatting and having a laugh. At 5pm we arrived at Cannakkale, which is a lovely little town and the locals all turned to look at us as our truck went by. We got on the ferry for the short trip across the Dardenelles to Ecebat. This crossing officially took us from Asia to Europe, still in Turkey. We set up camp on some dying grass alongside a pub next to the sea.
Tuesday 14 September
The reason for coming to this part of Turkey is to visit the battlefields, cemetaries and museum of Gallipoli. This is where Australian and New Zealand troops (as well as from other countries) suffered great losses in 1915 against the Turks. The guide, TJ, who was born in Turkey but lives also in Australia sometimes, was fantastic. He gave the information from both perspectives and didn't drone on like some guides.
Turkey wanted to be neutral in the First World War, but a number of factors made them get involved. They had ordered two warships from Britain, just for defence purposes. After payment, the British renaged and didn't deliver the ships. So the Germans gave the Turks two ships and sailed them down to the Dardenlles area. Also many of the Turkish Generals had trained in Germany. Also the Germans had convinced the Turks that they would win the war.
The British wanted to pass through the Dardenelles and the Sea of Maramara, take Istanbul at the Bosphorus River and continue on through the Black Sea, opening a supply route to Russia. The British were not very successful in this because of the Turkish/German warships and mines in the sea. So the Allies decided to send troops up the beaches of the Gallipoli penninsula and across to support the sea campaign. The fighting lasted from April 15th to December 19th, before a mass evacuation. 8700 Aussies and 2700 Kiwis died.
We used our truck for the tour, and TJ went on another bus. First stop was the museum where they had some Allied army uniforms, some still splattered with blood. And there were some letters from soldiers back to their parents. Next we drove out to Anzac Cove where some of the troops landed and to the first graveyard. TJ showed us the grave a of medic who had somehow found a donkey and used it to transport the sick. He got Phil to read a Kiwi soldier's account of trying to land on the beach, the soldier fell into the water and when he came up for air all his friends had been shot. It was quiet moving reading the headstones that said things like 'beloved only son of.....'. There is a huge stone sign with a quote from Ataturk, Father of the Turks, in which he speaks of the Allies and the Turks lives and deaths being equally important. Ataturk was a soldier at Gallipoli at the time and he was responsible for their success and went on to become Prime Minister and is still the most revered of all Turks, for saving his country from invasion.
After another graveyard we went to where the Anzac Day memorial takes place each year on April 15.Some years there are 15,000 Aussies and Kiwis gathered here to remember. But it was better to be here with only a few other visitors. We carried on along the road to Lone Pine cemetary. This is where the Turkish and Allied trenches were within a stones throw of each other. TJ told stories of individual troops from both sides helping those on the other side. Finally we visited the Turkish cemetary; the Turks lost at least 87,000 troops. So the day was fairly sombre but I was pleased that I have visited the place that is so important to many Aussies and Kiwis.
We got back to the pub/campsite at lunchtime and headed to the Pide restaurant. I had mince and cheese pide and it was great, better than a kebab or a pizza. At 3pm we began our final truck clean; we have to leave it clean for the next tour. Only 14 of us left but this truck is easier to clean than the previous one. I put up a few unused tents and made sure they were clean and then washed all the cups and cutlery, and got the wood off the roof. We had it all finished in a couple of hours and I sorted my own stuff out too.
In the evening we went out for our last dinner together. We went to the same kebab restaurant as last night but it wasnt so good. Had a final sheesha, a campfire and gave driver Gav his Indian Chief's headress as a thank you. I drank some whiskey and lots of gin until about 1am.
Wednesday 15 September
So today was a little emotional as we took our final drive from Ecebat to Istanbul our final destination, stopping at Burger King on the way! Because we are staying in the narrow streets of Sultanahmet, Gav just parked the truck near the water and we got taxis. This is the backpacker area. The hostel is really good and the staff friendly and they have free wi-fi so have been happily using the the notebook that Mum and Dad bought me. There are seven of us so we got our own dorm which saves worrying about other people. We had dinner on the hostel rooftop; I had an Iskender lamb kebab, with yoghurt. It was good, and quite spicy but no salad, but filled up with bread. This was also to farewell Gav and Summer (driver and guide) who have been fantastic for the whole trip. Went for a beer and sheehsa round the corner then some of the guys went out for more beer at midnight. I came home to bed! We have only been here a few hours but I really like the look and feel of Istanbul
Thursday 16 September
Well, yesterday I was thinking I might get a teaching job here because I do really like it. But when i woke up this morning, I changed my mind. I would only want to stay for a couple of months, so it is a bit pointless really. I want to go to India sooner rather than later. To get a visa for India, you first need a letter of recommendation from your own emabssy. Such a letter costs $40 at the Australian embassy, but I am travelling on my UK passport, so i went in search of the UK emabssy this morning. We walked across the Galata Bridge, where there were lots of guys fishing. Onto the feluculia towards Taksim. I asked a policeman for directions but he didnt speak English, but indicated for me to follow him. We walked for about 10 minutes and arrived at the British Embassy and he got in the police box next to it, so I think he had been heading that way anyway. Into the British Embassy, and guess what? Whereas Aussies have to pay $40, Brits have to pay their embassy $120 for the letter. Thats disgraceful, and I told them so! To be fair to the staff, they acknowledged this and said they had pushed the powersthatbe to get it reduced. Anyway, so I will go back nearer to the time of applying for my Indian visa.
Just got back from another kebab, and saying goodbye to Phil. People are off on their seperate ways now.
A long day on the road today along the west coast, and the Agean Sea, through Izmir which was hit by a terrible earthqauke a few years back. We arrived at the gates to Troy but we had heard that there really isnt much to see and also we were ruined out, so only two guys went in while the rest of us sat on the top of the truck chatting and having a laugh. At 5pm we arrived at Cannakkale, which is a lovely little town and the locals all turned to look at us as our truck went by. We got on the ferry for the short trip across the Dardenelles to Ecebat. This crossing officially took us from Asia to Europe, still in Turkey. We set up camp on some dying grass alongside a pub next to the sea.
Tuesday 14 September
The reason for coming to this part of Turkey is to visit the battlefields, cemetaries and museum of Gallipoli. This is where Australian and New Zealand troops (as well as from other countries) suffered great losses in 1915 against the Turks. The guide, TJ, who was born in Turkey but lives also in Australia sometimes, was fantastic. He gave the information from both perspectives and didn't drone on like some guides.
Turkey wanted to be neutral in the First World War, but a number of factors made them get involved. They had ordered two warships from Britain, just for defence purposes. After payment, the British renaged and didn't deliver the ships. So the Germans gave the Turks two ships and sailed them down to the Dardenlles area. Also many of the Turkish Generals had trained in Germany. Also the Germans had convinced the Turks that they would win the war.
The British wanted to pass through the Dardenelles and the Sea of Maramara, take Istanbul at the Bosphorus River and continue on through the Black Sea, opening a supply route to Russia. The British were not very successful in this because of the Turkish/German warships and mines in the sea. So the Allies decided to send troops up the beaches of the Gallipoli penninsula and across to support the sea campaign. The fighting lasted from April 15th to December 19th, before a mass evacuation. 8700 Aussies and 2700 Kiwis died.
We used our truck for the tour, and TJ went on another bus. First stop was the museum where they had some Allied army uniforms, some still splattered with blood. And there were some letters from soldiers back to their parents. Next we drove out to Anzac Cove where some of the troops landed and to the first graveyard. TJ showed us the grave a of medic who had somehow found a donkey and used it to transport the sick. He got Phil to read a Kiwi soldier's account of trying to land on the beach, the soldier fell into the water and when he came up for air all his friends had been shot. It was quiet moving reading the headstones that said things like 'beloved only son of.....'. There is a huge stone sign with a quote from Ataturk, Father of the Turks, in which he speaks of the Allies and the Turks lives and deaths being equally important. Ataturk was a soldier at Gallipoli at the time and he was responsible for their success and went on to become Prime Minister and is still the most revered of all Turks, for saving his country from invasion.
After another graveyard we went to where the Anzac Day memorial takes place each year on April 15.Some years there are 15,000 Aussies and Kiwis gathered here to remember. But it was better to be here with only a few other visitors. We carried on along the road to Lone Pine cemetary. This is where the Turkish and Allied trenches were within a stones throw of each other. TJ told stories of individual troops from both sides helping those on the other side. Finally we visited the Turkish cemetary; the Turks lost at least 87,000 troops. So the day was fairly sombre but I was pleased that I have visited the place that is so important to many Aussies and Kiwis.
We got back to the pub/campsite at lunchtime and headed to the Pide restaurant. I had mince and cheese pide and it was great, better than a kebab or a pizza. At 3pm we began our final truck clean; we have to leave it clean for the next tour. Only 14 of us left but this truck is easier to clean than the previous one. I put up a few unused tents and made sure they were clean and then washed all the cups and cutlery, and got the wood off the roof. We had it all finished in a couple of hours and I sorted my own stuff out too.
In the evening we went out for our last dinner together. We went to the same kebab restaurant as last night but it wasnt so good. Had a final sheesha, a campfire and gave driver Gav his Indian Chief's headress as a thank you. I drank some whiskey and lots of gin until about 1am.
Wednesday 15 September
So today was a little emotional as we took our final drive from Ecebat to Istanbul our final destination, stopping at Burger King on the way! Because we are staying in the narrow streets of Sultanahmet, Gav just parked the truck near the water and we got taxis. This is the backpacker area. The hostel is really good and the staff friendly and they have free wi-fi so have been happily using the the notebook that Mum and Dad bought me. There are seven of us so we got our own dorm which saves worrying about other people. We had dinner on the hostel rooftop; I had an Iskender lamb kebab, with yoghurt. It was good, and quite spicy but no salad, but filled up with bread. This was also to farewell Gav and Summer (driver and guide) who have been fantastic for the whole trip. Went for a beer and sheehsa round the corner then some of the guys went out for more beer at midnight. I came home to bed! We have only been here a few hours but I really like the look and feel of Istanbul
Thursday 16 September
Well, yesterday I was thinking I might get a teaching job here because I do really like it. But when i woke up this morning, I changed my mind. I would only want to stay for a couple of months, so it is a bit pointless really. I want to go to India sooner rather than later. To get a visa for India, you first need a letter of recommendation from your own emabssy. Such a letter costs $40 at the Australian embassy, but I am travelling on my UK passport, so i went in search of the UK emabssy this morning. We walked across the Galata Bridge, where there were lots of guys fishing. Onto the feluculia towards Taksim. I asked a policeman for directions but he didnt speak English, but indicated for me to follow him. We walked for about 10 minutes and arrived at the British Embassy and he got in the police box next to it, so I think he had been heading that way anyway. Into the British Embassy, and guess what? Whereas Aussies have to pay $40, Brits have to pay their embassy $120 for the letter. Thats disgraceful, and I told them so! To be fair to the staff, they acknowledged this and said they had pushed the powersthatbe to get it reduced. Anyway, so I will go back nearer to the time of applying for my Indian visa.
Just got back from another kebab, and saying goodbye to Phil. People are off on their seperate ways now.
12.9.10
Pamakkale, Selcuk, Ephesus
Friday 10th
Left Saklikent Gorge, back through the mountains. At lunchtime we arrived at Pamukkale which is where the rocks have been covered in calcium deposits over many years, and there are natural pools there for a dip. But most of us couldn't be bothered to pay $15 to get in. Instead we sat round the pool at the small hotel. You can't do everything, right? At night i slept outside but got attacked by mozzies. Went up to the truck to sleep but Spots had locked it from the inside so I was condemned to sleeping outside. But i found a diffent part of the lawn and the mozzies didnt get me.
Saturday 11
We left Pamukkale and drove until lunchtime, as far as Selcuk. Camping in the grounds of another small hotel, called Atilla's Getaway, again with a swimming pool. We are spoilt! It was our turn to shop and cook. Because the footy was on TV, Paige and Jess kindly said they didnt mind going into town to buy food while i watched the game. The owner even paid the fee to the TV company so we could watch the game, in return for us buying lunch and beer there. When the girls got back we made chicken wraps and salad. This hotel has a nice atmosphere, the staff are helpful and there lots of cushions. Sat around chatting again. The trip officially ends today, after 10 months, but we have 3 more nights until Istanbul so we stay with the truck but have to buy our own dinners now, which is fine. I am really gonna miss truck life.
Sunday 12
Got the hostel minibus into Selcuk and from there a minibus to the ruins of Ephesus. We had been a bit over ruins but decided to give it a go, and it was pretty good. There is Greek and Roman stuff there. The highlights, which were Roman, were the Grand Theatre (seats 25,000 people), the Facade of the Ceclus Library (from 117AD) and Curetes Street from the 4th Century AD. Also visited the latrines which were holes right next to each other along a smooth rock bench. No privacy. So Sarah took a picture of us sat on adjacent toilets. The others left but Sarah and I backtracked and had another look around. After all, there was nothing else to do for the rest of the day. At lunchtime, got the minibus back into town, a stroll around town and then back here to the hostel.
Left Saklikent Gorge, back through the mountains. At lunchtime we arrived at Pamukkale which is where the rocks have been covered in calcium deposits over many years, and there are natural pools there for a dip. But most of us couldn't be bothered to pay $15 to get in. Instead we sat round the pool at the small hotel. You can't do everything, right? At night i slept outside but got attacked by mozzies. Went up to the truck to sleep but Spots had locked it from the inside so I was condemned to sleeping outside. But i found a diffent part of the lawn and the mozzies didnt get me.
Saturday 11
We left Pamukkale and drove until lunchtime, as far as Selcuk. Camping in the grounds of another small hotel, called Atilla's Getaway, again with a swimming pool. We are spoilt! It was our turn to shop and cook. Because the footy was on TV, Paige and Jess kindly said they didnt mind going into town to buy food while i watched the game. The owner even paid the fee to the TV company so we could watch the game, in return for us buying lunch and beer there. When the girls got back we made chicken wraps and salad. This hotel has a nice atmosphere, the staff are helpful and there lots of cushions. Sat around chatting again. The trip officially ends today, after 10 months, but we have 3 more nights until Istanbul so we stay with the truck but have to buy our own dinners now, which is fine. I am really gonna miss truck life.
Sunday 12
Got the hostel minibus into Selcuk and from there a minibus to the ruins of Ephesus. We had been a bit over ruins but decided to give it a go, and it was pretty good. There is Greek and Roman stuff there. The highlights, which were Roman, were the Grand Theatre (seats 25,000 people), the Facade of the Ceclus Library (from 117AD) and Curetes Street from the 4th Century AD. Also visited the latrines which were holes right next to each other along a smooth rock bench. No privacy. So Sarah took a picture of us sat on adjacent toilets. The others left but Sarah and I backtracked and had another look around. After all, there was nothing else to do for the rest of the day. At lunchtime, got the minibus back into town, a stroll around town and then back here to the hostel.
9.9.10
Oludinez and Saklikent Gorge
Wednesday 8th September
Last night, after a couple of drinks at the campsite we headed to a pub in town to watch Switzerland v England. As expected there were quite alot of English people around, its a popular resort and some of them seemed to have actually retired here. I was seriously hoping we didnt lose since i had 2 Aussies with me, and i had, apparently, said I would wear the Germany shirt they bought me, if we lost. But England won quite easily and the Aussies went home! The rest of us stayed out for an hour or so longer, a few more drinks and some silly dancing, but it was silly expensive and there were not many people out so we wandered home.
We left Oludinez this morning. Stopped for a cheap kebab and shopping, then arrived here at Saklikent gorge. A few things to do here but a bit hot and lazed around. Will do stuff tomorrow. Not many good spots for our tents so i am up the hill in the bushes.
Thursday 9th September
This morning the others went tubing down the river. I couldn't be bothererd basically. So i just had a walk along the river and took pictures of the Gorge. We are staying next to Saklikent Gorge which is literally a crack in the Akdaglar Mountains. You can walk into the gorge, so we did. The first part is on a boardwalk attached to the cliff, above the river. Then you walk down the slippery, rocky bank into thigh-high freezing cold water. Dodging all the other tourists, with the strong current coming at you and with cold feet, it was a bit of a struggle to stay upright. After a while there is less water and for the next couple of kms we were up, down, over and under slippery rocks and in and out of waist-high water. Lots of fun. Pretty hard to get a grip at times to lift yourself over rocks and I nearly gave up, but finally we made it to the small waterfall which is as far as you can go, its a dead-end. Quite pleased with ourselves for making it that far as there were only a couple of others there. On the way back, slipped down a rock into the water but got it wrong and ended up fully submerged; good job me camera was in a plastic bag. It took 2.25 hours for the round trip.
Last night, after a couple of drinks at the campsite we headed to a pub in town to watch Switzerland v England. As expected there were quite alot of English people around, its a popular resort and some of them seemed to have actually retired here. I was seriously hoping we didnt lose since i had 2 Aussies with me, and i had, apparently, said I would wear the Germany shirt they bought me, if we lost. But England won quite easily and the Aussies went home! The rest of us stayed out for an hour or so longer, a few more drinks and some silly dancing, but it was silly expensive and there were not many people out so we wandered home.
We left Oludinez this morning. Stopped for a cheap kebab and shopping, then arrived here at Saklikent gorge. A few things to do here but a bit hot and lazed around. Will do stuff tomorrow. Not many good spots for our tents so i am up the hill in the bushes.
Thursday 9th September
This morning the others went tubing down the river. I couldn't be bothererd basically. So i just had a walk along the river and took pictures of the Gorge. We are staying next to Saklikent Gorge which is literally a crack in the Akdaglar Mountains. You can walk into the gorge, so we did. The first part is on a boardwalk attached to the cliff, above the river. Then you walk down the slippery, rocky bank into thigh-high freezing cold water. Dodging all the other tourists, with the strong current coming at you and with cold feet, it was a bit of a struggle to stay upright. After a while there is less water and for the next couple of kms we were up, down, over and under slippery rocks and in and out of waist-high water. Lots of fun. Pretty hard to get a grip at times to lift yourself over rocks and I nearly gave up, but finally we made it to the small waterfall which is as far as you can go, its a dead-end. Quite pleased with ourselves for making it that far as there were only a couple of others there. On the way back, slipped down a rock into the water but got it wrong and ended up fully submerged; good job me camera was in a plastic bag. It took 2.25 hours for the round trip.
6.9.10
Oludinez, Turkey
Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th September
Well, as turned out, we liked Kadir's hostel in Olympus and stayed 3 nights. Breakfast and evening meal were included in the price; It's like a skool canteen in that you go along a line with a plate and the staff serve you, and we were pleasantly surprised that that all the food was excellent, especially considering there were about 100 other people staying. They have a few dorms and chalets, but most of us camped out the back. The first night the music was loud but i stuck me earpluigs in and got to sleep ok.
Friday, we walked down to the beach. You have to pay for the beach because to get there you have to go past some ruins so its a national park. Seems a bit dogy but its only a couple of bucks. And the beach, despite some pebbles, is fanstastic. The mountains slope right down to the beach, so you have the med infront of you and lovely mountains behind. The water is mostly warm, no blue bottles or sharks to attack you and gentle rolling waves.
At dinner we were reunited with tour guide Summer who had gone back to the U.S. for a while after the middle eastern countries wouldn't let Americans in. After dinner we went to the pub next door where the drinks are about half the price they are at the hostel, and celebrated Jes's 19th birthday. This involved drinking and drinking games and wearing eachother's clothes, as you do. Later we went back to the hostel, which has a nightclub. Not necessarily my cup of tea these days, but it was almost like a rave and we were all fairly hammered by then so there was lots of crazy dancing and messing around until 2am then sitting on the volleyball chatting for another hour.
Saturday
So of course there were a few sore heads in the morning and you can't stay in your tent with the blasting in. So i lay on the comfy sofas in the upstairs bar until i could eat, at about 10am. Great breakfast. They served omelette and fresh tomatoes and cucumber and boiled eggs and rocket lettuce and fetta cheese. We sat around lazy for most of the day, just hanging out, grilled cheese on bread for lunch. Around 3 we headed to the beach and had another great swim. I feel very lucky to go to such places as Olympus, the hostel is a bit tacky and full of backpackers but the beach itself was great. After dinner we went out to the cactus bar to watch a live band. They were good but i was a bit over it and left midway through. Sleep!
Sunday.
9:30am departure. Plan was to go to another beach along the med coast. The scenery today was stunning, up and down and through he mountains that hug the coastline. Long winding road right next to the sea, which made us just want to jump in. So it was a bit of a diasappointment when we just arrived here at Sugarbeach, Oludinez, to find that it is next to a Lagoon, the sea and a beach are nowhere to be seen, and the other guests are a fair bit older than us. Oh well, can find the beach tomorrow.
Monday
It's all good. Sat round with the sheesha and strawberry tobacco last night, then took my whiskey and sprite to the bar; beer is silly expensive. This is a full-on resort. We walked into town today, lovely beach and mountains, English breakfast in every restaurant and English tabloid newspapers - good to know that Rooney's sex life is the most important headline. Anyway, had a fun time on the beach and in the sea, bigger waves today! And a few too many middle-aged topless ladies. Kebab for lunch then back to the beach.
Well, as turned out, we liked Kadir's hostel in Olympus and stayed 3 nights. Breakfast and evening meal were included in the price; It's like a skool canteen in that you go along a line with a plate and the staff serve you, and we were pleasantly surprised that that all the food was excellent, especially considering there were about 100 other people staying. They have a few dorms and chalets, but most of us camped out the back. The first night the music was loud but i stuck me earpluigs in and got to sleep ok.
Friday, we walked down to the beach. You have to pay for the beach because to get there you have to go past some ruins so its a national park. Seems a bit dogy but its only a couple of bucks. And the beach, despite some pebbles, is fanstastic. The mountains slope right down to the beach, so you have the med infront of you and lovely mountains behind. The water is mostly warm, no blue bottles or sharks to attack you and gentle rolling waves.
At dinner we were reunited with tour guide Summer who had gone back to the U.S. for a while after the middle eastern countries wouldn't let Americans in. After dinner we went to the pub next door where the drinks are about half the price they are at the hostel, and celebrated Jes's 19th birthday. This involved drinking and drinking games and wearing eachother's clothes, as you do. Later we went back to the hostel, which has a nightclub. Not necessarily my cup of tea these days, but it was almost like a rave and we were all fairly hammered by then so there was lots of crazy dancing and messing around until 2am then sitting on the volleyball chatting for another hour.
Saturday
So of course there were a few sore heads in the morning and you can't stay in your tent with the blasting in. So i lay on the comfy sofas in the upstairs bar until i could eat, at about 10am. Great breakfast. They served omelette and fresh tomatoes and cucumber and boiled eggs and rocket lettuce and fetta cheese. We sat around lazy for most of the day, just hanging out, grilled cheese on bread for lunch. Around 3 we headed to the beach and had another great swim. I feel very lucky to go to such places as Olympus, the hostel is a bit tacky and full of backpackers but the beach itself was great. After dinner we went out to the cactus bar to watch a live band. They were good but i was a bit over it and left midway through. Sleep!
Sunday.
9:30am departure. Plan was to go to another beach along the med coast. The scenery today was stunning, up and down and through he mountains that hug the coastline. Long winding road right next to the sea, which made us just want to jump in. So it was a bit of a diasappointment when we just arrived here at Sugarbeach, Oludinez, to find that it is next to a Lagoon, the sea and a beach are nowhere to be seen, and the other guests are a fair bit older than us. Oh well, can find the beach tomorrow.
Monday
It's all good. Sat round with the sheesha and strawberry tobacco last night, then took my whiskey and sprite to the bar; beer is silly expensive. This is a full-on resort. We walked into town today, lovely beach and mountains, English breakfast in every restaurant and English tabloid newspapers - good to know that Rooney's sex life is the most important headline. Anyway, had a fun time on the beach and in the sea, bigger waves today! And a few too many middle-aged topless ladies. Kebab for lunch then back to the beach.
5.9.10
Goreme to Olimpus (or Olympus), Turkey
Wednesday 1st and Thursday 2nd of September 2010
Two days to get from Goreme to Olympus. But we didnt leave until midday on Wednesday, to give people time to get over their hangovers from the Turkish night; I didn't go, just had dinner down the road with Sarah then we sat around waiting for the party animals to come back; seems they had a good time. Anyway, in the morning i went for a walk up onto the rocks above us for a last panoramic view of Goreme. In the truck we headed south. We went to stop at a supermarket, but Driver Gav accidently caused some public damage with the truck so drove off! To be fair, i don't think Gav realised what he had done until we had left, but us passengers saw the broken telegraph pole!
Up into the mountains and bushcamped before dark, just on some gravel, a few hundred metres off the side of the mountain road. I helped to cook dinner. A bemused shepherd came past with a couple of dogs and 50 sheep. I guess they don't normally have to walk around a bush campfire and truck to reach their destination! The sheep were pretty interested in the scrap onion and tomatoes i had left on the ground. It might have been our last bushcamp, so with the help of some whiskey i got quite sentimental aboout the trip, remembering all the wild bushcamps we did in west africa, in the middle of nowhere. Camping under the stars, being self-sufficient and waking up in awesome landscapes has been one of the trip highlights and something I will never forget.
Anyway, there were a few spots of rain at 6am so i packed up a bit early. Slept a bit on the truck; we had the sides down cos it was so cold and windy until about 11am. Then we continued through the mountains, down to the mediterranean sea, past lots of exclusive looking resorts. Turned off the main highway and down an 11km road to Olympus. This is a popular backpacker destination so we'll see how we enjoy it.....
Two days to get from Goreme to Olympus. But we didnt leave until midday on Wednesday, to give people time to get over their hangovers from the Turkish night; I didn't go, just had dinner down the road with Sarah then we sat around waiting for the party animals to come back; seems they had a good time. Anyway, in the morning i went for a walk up onto the rocks above us for a last panoramic view of Goreme. In the truck we headed south. We went to stop at a supermarket, but Driver Gav accidently caused some public damage with the truck so drove off! To be fair, i don't think Gav realised what he had done until we had left, but us passengers saw the broken telegraph pole!
Up into the mountains and bushcamped before dark, just on some gravel, a few hundred metres off the side of the mountain road. I helped to cook dinner. A bemused shepherd came past with a couple of dogs and 50 sheep. I guess they don't normally have to walk around a bush campfire and truck to reach their destination! The sheep were pretty interested in the scrap onion and tomatoes i had left on the ground. It might have been our last bushcamp, so with the help of some whiskey i got quite sentimental aboout the trip, remembering all the wild bushcamps we did in west africa, in the middle of nowhere. Camping under the stars, being self-sufficient and waking up in awesome landscapes has been one of the trip highlights and something I will never forget.
Anyway, there were a few spots of rain at 6am so i packed up a bit early. Slept a bit on the truck; we had the sides down cos it was so cold and windy until about 11am. Then we continued through the mountains, down to the mediterranean sea, past lots of exclusive looking resorts. Turned off the main highway and down an 11km road to Olympus. This is a popular backpacker destination so we'll see how we enjoy it.....
1.9.10
Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey
Tuesday 31st August
Yesterday evening, Driver Gav took us to a carpet shop where they gave us free dinner and red wine, probably as as inducement to buy a carpet, but honestly the guys in the shop were really friendly and honest and didn't hassle us at all; so different from in Morocco where they almost force you into the shop and then get stroppy when you dont by anything.
So we are camped right among the fairy chimneys of Goreme, so very nice to get up to this morning. We had already been woken by about 4am by, in order, a cockeral cock-a-doo-a-dooing, a dog barking, the call to prayer and then hot air balloons taking off right above our tents. Nevermind. It costs about $200 to go in the hot air balloon so gave it a miss. We hired a guide and he took us out on our truck for the day. First we stopped at one of the underground cities, called Derinkuyu. The cities went eight levels down and were first developed in the 2nd century, then used atfer the 4th century by chistians and until the 13th century, always for protection from invaders. We were underground, in the tunnels for about 45 minutes. It was not claustrophobic for me but couldnt help thinking that they have lots earthquakes in Turjey! The people who used to live there were very organised and had water and air shafts and kitchens and a missionary school and animal traps and stables. Most of the time we could stand up but there was some crouching.
We carried on to the Ihlara valley/canyon. We walked down to and along the narrow river for about 3kms and it was very green and pleasant, as opposed to all the dryness and sand of the middle east. We stopped at a church in the cliff that had christian frescoes from the 10th century. At the end we had lunch.
After lunch we carried on driving along the lovely countryside. Lots of farmsteads and locals in the fields. And tractors. We stopped at the Selime Cathedral which is inside the rocks. There are frescoes there too. The view from up there was great. Finally we stopped for another panoramic view of the fairy chimneys (check out facebook photos if you are wondering what the heck a fairy chimney is).
It was a long and enjoyable day, the guide was cool and didn't overload us with information. I asked him, and he said he became interested in English when got into English rock music such as Muse and Radiohead and Arctic Monkeys. The guide and the carpet guys have given me a good impression of Turkey, and the countryside is great so i think i will be in Turkey for a while.
Yesterday evening, Driver Gav took us to a carpet shop where they gave us free dinner and red wine, probably as as inducement to buy a carpet, but honestly the guys in the shop were really friendly and honest and didn't hassle us at all; so different from in Morocco where they almost force you into the shop and then get stroppy when you dont by anything.
So we are camped right among the fairy chimneys of Goreme, so very nice to get up to this morning. We had already been woken by about 4am by, in order, a cockeral cock-a-doo-a-dooing, a dog barking, the call to prayer and then hot air balloons taking off right above our tents. Nevermind. It costs about $200 to go in the hot air balloon so gave it a miss. We hired a guide and he took us out on our truck for the day. First we stopped at one of the underground cities, called Derinkuyu. The cities went eight levels down and were first developed in the 2nd century, then used atfer the 4th century by chistians and until the 13th century, always for protection from invaders. We were underground, in the tunnels for about 45 minutes. It was not claustrophobic for me but couldnt help thinking that they have lots earthquakes in Turjey! The people who used to live there were very organised and had water and air shafts and kitchens and a missionary school and animal traps and stables. Most of the time we could stand up but there was some crouching.
We carried on to the Ihlara valley/canyon. We walked down to and along the narrow river for about 3kms and it was very green and pleasant, as opposed to all the dryness and sand of the middle east. We stopped at a church in the cliff that had christian frescoes from the 10th century. At the end we had lunch.
After lunch we carried on driving along the lovely countryside. Lots of farmsteads and locals in the fields. And tractors. We stopped at the Selime Cathedral which is inside the rocks. There are frescoes there too. The view from up there was great. Finally we stopped for another panoramic view of the fairy chimneys (check out facebook photos if you are wondering what the heck a fairy chimney is).
It was a long and enjoyable day, the guide was cool and didn't overload us with information. I asked him, and he said he became interested in English when got into English rock music such as Muse and Radiohead and Arctic Monkeys. The guide and the carpet guys have given me a good impression of Turkey, and the countryside is great so i think i will be in Turkey for a while.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)