Bodhgaya and Kolkata

Sunday 20th February
Slept in, then after breakfast headed to the other side of town where there are many Buddhist temples. The area is a bit like a Buddhist temple theme park (in a good way) in that each temple is from a different country. So I first visited the Thai Buddhist temple, then the Japanese, Bhutanese, Tibetan and Chinese temples - I think I prefer Bhuddist temples to Hindu temples. There is also a big grey cool Buddha in the Lotus position. Had tasty Chow Mein at the roadside, cooked by a kid who might still be at schoool.


Sat down for a chai and a 20-something Indian guy came and sat beside me. He wanted to record our conversation but I declined saying I was just happy to chat. We talked about cultural differences and I maybe grilled him a bit too much about gender equality and women being expected to stay at home and not work. He said that if he had a wife he would 'not allow her to work'. I asked why, and after a pause he said "because my family and her family would not like it". So it seems that neither or his wife can decide this for themselves? To be fair, I have heard from elsewhere that this attitude is less common these days.

Caught a tuk-tuk with a random couple back to Gaya. Omelette for dinner; it is more common to have it for dinner than for breakfast. Train at 820pm

Monday 21st February

Arrived at Kolkata (Calcutta) just after 4am. Waited at the station for a bit, thinking the hotels might not be open, then got a taxi to Sudder Street which is in the backpacker area. Five hotels had no free rooms, or maybe the guys just didnt want to get up from sleeping just inside. Though it was dark in the narrow streets, it felt safe as there were guys setting up their chai stalls etc for the day. One of them brought me round to this hostel. Staying in a cheap dorm with just two others, very nice, good price, although one other guy moved out cos of the bed bugs in the night, so see how it goes.

Had a couple of hours sleep, and after porridge and papaya, walked down to the south entrance of the Victoria Memorial Park which was established in 1901 to, apparently, mark Victoria's diamond jubilee. The memorial itself is quite spectacular, and (as the LP says) a kind of cross between the Taj Mahal and the US Capitol building, with a nice park and lakes around it. The inside is shut on Mondays so I sat on a bench reading until the rain started.

Walking back I was accosted by 4 small grubby children, one with a baby, and they dragged me towards a fruit seller and they made it clear that they were not letting go until I had bought them some fruit, they nearly ripped my arm off. I made it clear that until they calmed down and let go of my arm, nothing was going to happen. At least they asked for food rather than money, so they got their fruit.

After some deliberation I bought some hiking boots. They look good but are not quite as waterproof as I hoped. Had kimchi and noodles in the street and then walked the long way round to Mother Theresa's mission to see about volunteering tomorrow. It was a Mission to find it, but The Sisters said I could just turn up in the morning. Found quicker way back with Sister's directions.

This morning at the station while I was queueing for a pre-paid taxi, at least one taxi driver said he could take me to Sudder street for 100 rupees, which they said was 35 rupees cheaper than getting the pre-paid taxi. I was right to be sceptical, the pre-paid taxi was 80 rupees. Its not much money but no wonder we often ignore them since they often tell lies.

Tuesday 22nd February

Up at 6:30am and walked to Mother's Theresa's Mission, aka Mother's House. It was just daylight and it was good watching the city wake up as I walked. I was a bit surprised to see about 100 other travellers at the House and it was all very organised and they all knew what was happening and I felt like the newbie; I had got the impression that it was a small outfit and we would just be washing up after breakfast and maybe a bit of cleaning.....

But actually you are supposed to register (yesterday) with the House and then they send groups all over the city to work in the morning. While we waited I asked a German guy what kind of work he does and he said sometimes bathing the residents (maybe 'patient' is not the right word) and helping them in the bathroom; I wasn't sure I was ready for this on my first day. He also made it sound like my non-registration was a big deal, so I thought about running off and back to bed!

But after prayers and a song, I decided spoke to the Sister who was in charge and she just gave me a two-day pass (I am only here two days anyway). She asked me what work I would like to do and I said "something straightforward". So she put me in a group of about 20 (mainly Spanish, a few Japanese) and off we went through the streets to a hospice.

Some of Mother's hospices are for the dying, to spend their last days with dignity, but this hospice is for the mentally and/or physically handicapped. Spanish Jose showed me around a bit and we began our work. First we had to wring out the cleaned bedsheets, then we brushed the courtyard and then handed out water and chai to the residents, then had a one hour chai and biscuits break ourselves. Some volunteers were shaving and giving massages to the residents. I admire the other volunteers who have been doing this for a few weeks or a few months because they are really helping these people and offering their friendship. Many of the residents seem very happy to see the volunteers each morning.

Next was lunch. We grab a plate of food and take it to a resident. There was an old man sitting on his bed near the back of the room. I took the plate over and sat next to him. I don't think he was handicapped, just a bit old and frail. I talked to him a bit but I dont think he understood. I sat with him while he ate and I passed him his water and after a bit he said 'finished', so maybe he had understood a bit. Anyway, I had obviously brought him too much food which I felt a bit bad about and will remember for tomorrow. I then helped to wash up the 100 or so plates and cups, surrounded by Italian guys. There were lots of different nationalities there which was cool. Just helping, and showing the residents that people care about them, for one morning seemed very worthwhile. Of course it seems like a big deal to me on my first day, something I didnt know anything about, but other people do this all the time, and good on them.

After, I walked to the train station I leave from, just to check where it is, then walked back to Sudder Street. Went for a walk and bought two more LPs! And fried omelette, and Bhel Puri. While having a chai, Penny whom I met at the Tiger Park came by so we chatted and arranged to go out tonight.

Had a couple of guys, at different times, come up for a chat and we talked about Australia, but as usual they soon change the conversation to whether I would like to buy some handicrafts or some hash. I told this to the third guy who it turned out wanted his train fare home or a sandwich. He didnt look too badly off to me so I told him that if I was going to hand out money it would be to people alot worse off than him.

Penny and I walked down to the Light and Sound show at the Victoria Memorial, it was in English and we sat on plastic chairs with about 30 others, facing the memorial, with a screen to the side. It was a bit like listening to a radio play, with the narration and the sound effects, as well as some still photos on the screen telling the history of Kolkata while coloured lights lit up the memorial to dramatic effect. It was ok for 20 rupees. We walked back to Sudder street and got some tasty street snacks and chai.

Wednesday 23rd February

Walked to Mother's house and then with the others to the hospice. Pretty much the same schedule as yesterday but there are possibly more volunteers than are needed so not always much to do. While we there, a guy was brought in for treatment, his wrists and lower arms were horribly swollen and there was an inch of bone sticking out of his arm, I dont really know what had happened to him. The sisters and a volunteer, who is presumably a nurse at home, fixed him up but people were saying he might lose both hands.

I played catch with one of the residents and chatted to an Indian guy and his daughter who live in Manchester (he since 1959). There is a multi-lingual Canadian guy working at Mother's house, who has been there 40 years and who worked with Mother Theresa. And a couple of us chatted to the hospice's Mother Superior in her office about what is was like to know and work with Mother Theresa, whose tomb I then visited at Mother's house. While I am in no way religious I instinctively clasped my hands in a prayer gesture as I visited the tomb, but I did the same thing at the main Buddhist temple in Bodhgaya the other day too.

From chatting to the locals, it seems that the unrest in Darjeeling, where I want to visit in the coming days, has finished. Some locals want seperatism and there had been violence, three people killed and transport strikes.

Delhi, Varanasi and Bodhgaya

Monday 14th February

Got on the bus. 1 or 2 other people seemed to have the same seat number as me on their ticket. But I knew I was right so there was no way I was budging, even if they were monks. It rained and there was thunder and lighting most of the night, but got some sleep.

Tuesday 15th February

The bus arrived at 7am, only 1km away from the stated destination, Connaught Square, New Delhi. My bag was quite wet from being in the boot, the driver didn't care when I showed him. It stopped raining and I knew where I was and walked to Pharganj and into the cheap scruffy hotel I stayed in last time.  I could have left my bag at the train station for the day for less money but wanted a bit of convenience and to come and go, depending on the weather.

After breakfast, I still did my planned walk the long way round to Old Delhi, mostly in the rain. Still, I was looking for some chaos as I only have three weeks left in India, and I certainly got that. Traffic and people everywhere, the rain just making it all more crazy. Stopped for lunch at the roadside, rice and spicy beans with the office workers. And samosas. Back through the bazaar which was mostly plumbing and hardware type stuff. Bought a waterproof cover for my big bag.

Family man on the train asked me to swap seats with his wife. I didnt really mind but couldnt see the point of his request since we were both on Upper Berths. I asked him "why" and he didnt really answer. So I grumpily made of show of having to move all my stuff! It rained alot in the night.

Wednesday 16th Febraury.

Train arrived about 1.5 hours late but no rain. Booked train ticket to Gaya for Friday.

As expected, walking out of Varanasi station was pretty chaotic, dirty and smoggy and lots of touts offering to take me here and there, had some good-humoured banter with them. Pre-paid taxi was a rip-off then I found the pre-paid rickshaw which was more reasonable. On the way there was a muslim procession, a holy day for them. The rickshaw can't fit down all the roads so they drop you off and you have to walk about 20 minutes the rest of the way, the locals were very helpful in pointing me the right way down the narrow lanes. Lots of noise and chaos which is fun.

Checked in to Asanti hotel, good value. Got my laundry done and had a shower for the first time in too long. The hotel rooftop overlooks the Ganges river, there was some mist and you can see it is low at the moment and dry in places that surely flood in the monsoon. I walked down there after lunch. The river is flanked on this side by ghats and the most important one is Manikarnika ghat, mainly because this is the major burning ghat, where they cremate people. As I got there they were carrying a body on a bamboo stretcher, covered in an orange sheet, down to the river, where they dunked it. There were already a few fires going and after about an hour they used them to light a hastily made 'bonfire' onto which they placed the body, removing the orange sheet so he had just a white sheet over him. And slowly but surely, from toe to head, he was creamated.

Of course it felt a bit voyueristic but we kept a respectful distance and the only hassle we got was from touts. Strangely, most people seemed to be onlookers rather than mourners and there were only 3 or 4 guys hanging around the body as it burned, no crying or wailing and no women at all because they are busy grieving elsewhere. They don't cremate pregnant women, or kids under 13. It was a bit surreal but there was a chai wallah coming round with his big flask of tea which he served in small clay cups. He said I could keep the cup as long as I go back tomorrow. Probably best that he didn't wash it in the Ganges.

I walked along the other ghats for a while and into the narrow streets. Through the cheap and the posh bazaars, just window shopping and eating snacks. I just really enjoyed walking around taking in the atmosphere of everyday life in India, it reminds me of when I first got here. In the evening there was music and a ceremony at some of the ghats. The guys were singing the holy Ganges' praises, so mostly facing the river rather than the audience. Hung out at the hostel with Kiwi Joe who also used to live in Coogee.

Thursday 17th February

Up at 5:30am for a group rowing boat trip on the Ganges, free of charge courtesy of the hostel, very generous of them and means we didnt have to barter with the boatmen. It was dark and a bit misty when we started and as we moved downstream we saw the pilgrims bathing and chatting and washing clothes. We are sure we saw a dead body in the water, just the head in a white cloth, bobbing up and down.

Back at the hostel, had beans on toast with fried eggs, yum. Then Joe and I went for a walk along the ghats and into town dealng with the touts with good humour. Then we walked about 5kms to the rickety pontoon bridge, across the Ganges. Joe went into the fort and museum while I sat in the shade with locals coming over to stand and stare at me (a bit annoying) or chat in broken English (fine). A long but enjoyable walk back along the ghats. Stopped and got my first cut-throat razor blade shave, a little nervous but he knew what he was doing, only one slight nick but I think he enjoyed watching me wince as he applied the after shave. Also a bit of head massage. Finished at the burning ghat for more voyeurism. Took myself into town for samosas and only got a bit lost on the way back.

The hostel is great, a rooftop restaurant with a 180 degree view of the Ganges, and a good place to socialise with other travellers which I haven't done much lately.


Friday 18th February

Joe and I walked along the ghats to the bakery. Getting a bit tired of the touts sidling up to us and saying 'boat' or 'want some hash', its constant. There are guys who say hello and extend their hand for a handshake and once you give them your hand they try to give you a hand and shoulder massage which of course you will have to pay for. Beans with onion on toast with 2 fried eggs.

We checked out and walked through the narrow streets trying not to knock people over with our backpacks, had to breathe in when a body was being carried through on its way to the ghats. Got a tuk-tuk to the station, and said 'bye' to Joe. Left Varansi for 5 hour trip to Gaya. It went quite quickly, I am enjoying a novel about a girl who goes travelling in South-East Asia, to many of the places I have been.

Checked in, seems like a nice town, friendly people.


Saturday 19th February

Checked out, tuk-tuk to Bodhgaya. Staying at a guest house in the corner of a small village where the people have a well and live in small brick houses. This town is famous for its Buddhist temples and is also the place where Buddha achieved Enlightenment. After tsampa I went for a walk hoping to find a crowd of Indians somewhere watching the first game of the cricket world cup, they play Bangladesh. In the old town, away from the touristy areas it was just like the rest of India, too many people and not enough town, but no cricket. I did find a restaurant that put it on for me but I missed the start and there was no crowd. A bit disappointing.

So I went to Mahabodhi temple which was built in the 6th century and is still in good condition. Behind the temple is the tree under which Buddha became enlightened, although its actually from a cutting of the original tree, which was long ago taken to Sri Lanka. You can't sit exactly under the tree, but quite close. I sat there for a while watching the monks and the pilgrims. Went inside the temple where there is 2m high Buddha. Around the temple there were various prayer groups, and also monks, and a few western ladies, bowing down. They stand at one end of a special flatbed of wood, make a prayer action then kneel, then lie on their belly before pushing themselves back up and repeating the process. I sat near to a group of about 100 monks as they  were lead in prayer. Then sat in the park and read.

Picked up Norwegian guy on the way back who was looking for this hotel. Watched some of the cricket with the owner's nephew, friendly family guest house. Went for dinner with the norwegian guy.

McLeod Ganj

Wednesday 9th February

Couldn't be bothered to go see the sunrise, too much hassle at that time of day. Got porridge and coffee for breakfast then a tuk-tuk to Agra Canton station. 2nd class ticket, not too busy, I sat on the luggage rack above the seats, out of the way, as many Indian guys also do. Finished my book. 3 hours to Delhi, arrived at 2pm.

Went to a few travel agents, wanting to come to McLeod Ganj, in Himachal Pradesh state, ASAP. Direct bus fully booked for tonight, so they gave me a ticket to Pathankot (never heard of it before) which is 2.5 hours from McLeod by local bus. Got a cycle rickshaw across to Old Delhi to the bus, via some back streets and markets which I am now inspired to check out properly when I go back through Delhi. But the bus wasn't there and I had to share a 2-seater cycle rickshaw with two friendly Kashmiri guys down a bumpy backroad to an underpass where the bus was waiting. Only had half a bum cheek on the rickshaw seat and trying to hold on to my bag too.

It still took another hour of chaos before the bus left. The ticket has a seat number but the bus seats and sleeping cabins are not numbered so the bus 'conductor' spent ages moving people around, he moved me twice. Then there are people coming in selling drinks and chips etc and they just get in the way as the aisle is very narrow. And my seat didnt go back.

It took a while to get out of Delhi but after that the roads were pretty clear and we also went round some country towns.



Thursday 10th February

Not a bad night on the bus, wrapped up in sleeping bag. Around 8am I started to ask people whether we had reached Pathankot yet; a few understood but couldn't agree whether we had already passed it or not yet reached it. Eventually there was consensus that we had passed it half an hour ago and so I rushed to get off the bus. My own fault really for not checking sooner.

So I found myself in Sarkaghat, which I think is just inside Kashmir, on a cold and misty morning, not sure how things would turn out. (Being in Kashmir is not really a problem, lots of travellers go there safely, the biggest danger is vehicles going off the side of a mountain). Luckily there were plenty of people around and the first person I asked directed me to the right bus. The bus conductor was also helpful. It looked like a pretty hard place to live, with not much in the way of entertainment. A few military installations and tanks.

So, the bus took me back to Pathankot, in Punjab state, where we waited for half an hour before continuing on to Gaggal for a couple of hours. The scenery was great, snow-capped mountains a wide, dry river and small bustling market towns stocked with lots of fruit and vegies.

At Gaggal, the bus driver dropped me off and pointed at the next bus; the bus made its way uphill and after half an hour we arrived in Dharmasala. From there I easily got the bus, slowly, upto McLeod Ganj, 1770m above sea level. So although it took longer than normal to get here from Delhi, it was an adventure and I saw some parts I wouldn't otherwise have seen.

Had a walk around the small town. There are lots of Tibetans living here and lots of Tibetan clothes and restaurants and 'Free Tibet' signs.

Its quite mild during the day but the nighttime is very cold.


Friday 11th February

Got up early and switched to a cheaper hotel. And now I have a room with a fantastic view across the valley, parts of it look like it is from another planet. Tibetan porridge for breakfast.

Today's mission was to check out the sights related to Tibet; there are many Tibetan refugees here, more than Indians. At the end of town a road continues down to the Tsuglagkhang Complex which includes some Tibetan temples and statues and the Tibet museum. I met an older Indian tourist, Prakash, who speaks perfect English and he was a good companion for the afternoon.

The Tibet museum has photos and text about the Tibetan's plight and the exodus from Tibet to India. One of the stories was about a man who managed to escape to India, getting frostbite along the way and having his legs amputated. And about women being detained and tortured for not rejecting the Dalai Lama as their spiritual leader. The next Panchen Lama (the second highest-ranking spiritual leader for Tibetans) was six years old when the Chinese took him away 15 years ago and he has not been seen since.

So the Tibetan Goverment is in exile and their parliament is here in McLeod Ganj. Its a good half hour walk downhill from the town, with mountain views along the way. A guide took us into the small parliament building where they have a seat for the speaker and 30 or 40 seats for the members who represent the regions of Tibet, so it is still an active working government. The members are elected by Tibetans outside Tibet and they meet in March and September.

We also went to the nearby Library of Tibetan works which has old religious artifacts that were smuggled out of Tibet, saved from the Chinese Cultural Revolution. We walked slowly back up the hill, Prakash is quite a bit older than me. We had fried veggie momo on the street. Momo is a small Tibetan dumpling, like a Japanese gyoza, very tasty. And we had chai.


Saturday 12th February

Tsampa (Tibetan) porridge with banana, honey and sugar for breakfast. Walked around to Bhagsu temple and then uphill to Dharamkot, got a bit lost for a bit. Then it started spitting so I didnt hang around, down the other side of the hill, on a path through the pine trees back to McLeod Ganj. It stopped raining but grabbed my rain jacket in case and walked along the hillside to Dal Lake. Well, its a ake with no water alongside the pine forest. Found a freezing cold metal bench and read for a while.

Back in McLeod Ganj I went to the place where there is a sign asking for volunteers to have conversation classes with Tibetan refugees and former political prisoners; I feel a bit bad that I haven't volunteered at all in India. But it is the second weekend of the month so the place is shut, as was the other voluinteer centre. Had momos again, read my book at a lookout and had chai; this is the good life!

And the footy was on in a restaurant, big plasma screen. A few locals came and went but I was the only one watching, until cheeky monks came in and switched channels to another game wihout asking, but they left at half time. Had Tibetan tomato and egg drop soup, delicious, some Tibetan noodles which were ok, and four cups of tea.


Sunday 13th February

Rain last night and this morning. Tempted to stay in bed as its cold and wet but after late breakfast I took  a stroll down the mountain to Dhramasala, it only rained a bit. There is not much to see in the town so walked back up the main road and caught the bus back to McLeod Ganj, and the rain started again. Later walked down to the Church of St John in the Wilderness. It is in a small clearing in the forest and it looked stark and cold on the outside, on this grey sunday afternoon. I couldnt go inside but peeked inside and imagined those English folk in the 1850's coming from around and about here, freezing cold and it feeling like home. The graveyard includes places for those killed here in the 1905 earthquake. I wonder whether their present-day descendents know of them and that they are buried here, and if they have visited their gravestones.  

The Taj Mahal, Agra

Monday 7th February

So my train leaves Umaria at 8:50pm and it will take me about 1.5 hours to get to Umaria, so quite a long day with nothing to do. Unfortunately this can happen when you are backpacking, but i know i shouldnt really complain. I just slept in then checked out at noon. They then informed me of the 10% tax on the room which they didnt tell me about when i agreed the initial price. Quite annoyed about that but I am trying to be nice so I only complained a bit. Internet and reading and then onto the local bus to Umaria bus station, 2 samosas with the locals and then a tuk-tuk to Umaria railway station. Sat there for 5 hours, locals gathering around and just staring at me, tried not to get bothered. A few tried to talk but there English wasn't too good. Inbetween, listened to football podcast. The train eventually arrived an hour and 10 minutes late. Friendly people on the train and I got the upper berth so was able to go straight to sleep.

Tuesday 8th February

Slept in on the train, then read. Arrived at Agra at midday. I was passed around 4 tuk-tuk drivers before the oldest driver in town brought me into town, half an hour. The traffic and the hassle here is much less than I expected. The tuk-tuks were actually going slowly for a change. I like it here.

Had lunch then headed to the Taj Mahal. Of course, I was here 15 years ago but didnt really appreciate it then. The queue at the South Gate was almost non-existent so I paid my 750 rupees and approached the 30m high red sandstone gate (at $18 the Taj is by far the most expensive landmark I have visited in India, the locals pay much less, which is fair enough). Through the gate, I got my first glance of the Taj and it looks magnificent. It had a facelift in 2002 so looks whiter than I remember. It looks great from a distance, with the gardens and ponds in the foreground, and there were far fewer tourists than I expected. I walked slowly up to the Taj and looked inside, not that much to see. Walked round the outside a couple of times, the arabic script on the walls is from the Quran and there are four minarets. Quick look in the sandstone mosques on each side. Walked back away from the Taj and had my 'holiday snap' taken, of me and the Taj. A couple of hours was enough and I went exploring.

Mehtab Bagh is a park on the other side of the river from the Taj giving good views of the back of the Taj. You can get a tuk-tuk but I thought I would try to walk. I headed to Agra fort and walked most of the way around it, passing the tent city where the poverty seems to have been hidden away. I realised there was a pedrestrian path alongside the railway line on the bridge over the river so this would be a shortcut. A bit of vertigo on the long bridge brought me to the road and I walked from there to the park. The views were certainly good and it was quite peaceful. As soon as the sun goes down they kick you out. I enquired about a tuk-tuk back but the price was ridiculous so I walked back, crossing the river again.

Madurai, Jabalpur and Bandhavgarh Tiger Park

Saturday 29th January

7:50am train to Madurai. Because it is the start of the train line, there was no mad rush to get a seat. although it was busier as we approached Madurai 5 hours later. And as we pulled into Madurai and I made my way, with my bag, to the door, the scramble to get on was crazy, the Indians pushing and pulling eachother to get on, and just shoving people like me back, further into the train, which of course makes no sense. At times I was eyeball to eyeball in the doorway and they just keep pushing you back so I just had to back off for a few minutes, then steady myself and back into them and off the train. There was alot of swearing and cursing from me but they didnt seem to notice, except a guard on the platform who did show some understanding. Anyway, in any language or any culture it was rude and ridiculous to treat other people like that even if you do want a seat on the train. They have similar issues in Tokyo, but they let the people off before they try to get on, and there is not the same selfish aggression.

Still, it kind of snapped me out of any complacency about what can happen in India, which was good, because Madurai is a busy little town. The hotel is a bit expensive but has TV which is good for the weekends. Had a wander towards the main temple, lots of people and tuk-tuks and bikes, I actually enjoyed a bit of craziness after the relative peace of Kerala. Got my shorts fixed by a guy with a sewing machine. Of course I was wearing them when I found him and had to take them off, and made a fool of myself trying to tie on the large piece of cloth they gave me to cover up with.

Watched Australia lose 1-0 to Japan in the Asia cup, something strange with my TV made it look like they were playing on orange grass.

Sunday 30th January

Went to see the temple, quite a few people coming up and telling me what I can wear, and the opening times, very friendly but not really necessary and probably with a view to get into a conversation that ends up at a tailors where they get commission. Although I am mostly templed-out, the large Sri Meenakshi temple in Madurai certainly stands out with several towers adorned by hundreds of colourful statues of Hindi deities. Inside, the ceilings and walls are painted with similar colours. And there was an elephant that had been very well trained to take coins and cash in his trunk, in return for blessing the pilgrim with a steady tap and stroke to the head. Of course the elephant shouldnt be there, it should be in the wild.

Came back and watched Andy Murray lose the Aussie Open.


Monday 31st January


Started my epic journey from the south of India to central India. Got on the train at Madurai, 2nd class seat, a bit squashed but not too bad. The 8 hours to Chennai didn't drag too much, and we were 20 minutes early so I had well over an hour to get to the other station for my connection so had lunch along the way.

Then onto sleeper carriage at 15:40. My companions in my compartment were a group of 5 teenage student Buddhist monks. Turns out there were 140 of them on the train, some Indian, some Nepali. They study at Mysore and are going to Bodhgaya, where Buddha achieved Enlightenment. They were reading books about Buddha, some in English, so I had a bit of a read. In the evening we shared card tricks and I had yet another egg biriyani, not much choice. Early to bed.


Tuesday 1st February

The student monks were good company during the day and you could see that they were good friends who looked out for eachother. As with many Indian boys and men, they are very tactile with eachother. As I may have mentioned before, it is not appropriate for men and women to show one another affection in public, but boys and men do it all the time. The student monks were sometimes cuddled up together, arms round eachother, hands on eachothers knees and legs. Nothing wrong with this of course; its just an observation.

There is no shortage of food drink to buy on the train. Every few minutes a uniformed guy, never a woman, comes past offering chai (tea) or coffee, water and soft drinks. For breakfast I got omelette and bread and ketchup. Lunch was biriyani again so I skipped that and had 4 samosas in the afternoon.

My plan was to go straight to Katni today and onto Umaria and Tala, to the Tiger Park. But since my next train north doesn't leave Umaria until 6 days time, I thought I would stop off along the way, here at Jabalpur. So after 36 hours and over 2000kms I said goodbye to the students and got off the train. I ignored all the rickshaw drivers looking for a fare and steamed along into town to the hotel in the LP.....but I got lost in the dirt and the noise and the dark....

There seemed to be many people living on the streets, more than I have noticed elsewhere. I got hassled by some kids, I couldnt really work out whether they were harmless or not, though I think they threw stones at me. Eventually I found a guy who could speak some English. He and his little brother walked me across town to the hotel, I had been miles away. Ended up in a hotel nearby as it seemed nicer. I have been paying more than I like to for hotels recently but I haven't had much choice. Oh well, I have warm water and TV.


Wednesday 2nd February

Up early and walked to the bus stand, would have got lost again without locals helpful directions. 2 samosas for breakfast and then half an hour on the rickety old bus to Bhedaghat where I got a very old, strange-looking taxi, shared with 10 others to the river. I walked down to the ghat and to the jetty and straight onto a rowing boat with a couple of families. The boat goes along the gorge with marble-like cliffs above the holy river Narmada, which is the same river that Maheshwar etc are on. The cruise was ok.

Continued up the hill to the waterfalls, called Dhuandhad (Smoke Cascade). I went past them first and sat on the cliff above the river and read my book. Then I went down to the waterfalls, there were lots of families there enjoying the water and their homemade food. You can get very close to the falls, a concrete platform has been built on the river so you are right next to the gushihg water.

I walked back down the hill and took some steps up to Chausath Yogni, a small round 10th century temple, and very pleasant it was too, a few locals burning incense and saying prayers. Walked back down, a small detour to the local village. I then walked a few kms back to the crossroads and got a tuk-tuk back to Jabalpur. There were three of us in the drivers seat - me in the middle, another passenger on my left and the driver, half out of the tuk-tuk, leaning across me to steer.


Thursday 3rd February

A bit unsure about getting to the train station so early this morning as I didnt know if there would be any tuk-tuks at that time, its a long way to the station and I didnt really know the way and the streets seem a little dodgy. So i checked out at 5:15am. The streets were deserted but then I was pleased to see a cycle-rickshaw on the other side of the street. He worked very hard to get me to the station and got a 40% tip. Nice guys at the station, one insisted on buying me chai, and another saved me a seat on the crowded train, which left Jabalpur an hour late.

Arrived in Umaria around lunchtime, had a quick look around to see if there would be anywhere to stay when I go back that way, but there was nothing there. Got a cycle rickshaw to the bus stand and then onto a bus to Tala, bag on the roof. Found cheapish room and got Swedish Lupas and English Penny to stay here too, and we went off to organise a Tiger safari for tomorrow morning. We met Enlgish David and went to the main park gate. Signed up. Had dinner at outside restaurant. Its really cold here, especially after the heat of the south, but at least it gives me a reason to wear my down jacket.

Friday 4th February

So we got up at 5:30am and got picked up in a jeep and taken to the main gate for the tiger safari. Gate 1 was already booked out so they took us to gate 2. It was only once we were in the park that the guide told us that gate 2 has far fewer tigers and that we were less likely to see one. And after 4 hours of driving around, we didn't see a tiger, so quite disappointed. Had a cat nap and then tried to organise to go to gate 1 tomorrow. Organising the safari is quite confusing and bureaucratic getting locals help is not easy. But by 9pm we had a confirmation from a hotel for gate 1 for tomorrow.

This is a one street town. Its cold but the hotel, the food and the people here are excellent. All the more surprising then to see one of the park guides with a bandage on his head after he, and some tourists, were attacked in the park, by a suspected poacher. And also, while i slept yesterday afternoon, some guys came through on a jeep and smashed some shop windows opposite our hotel. Why? Because they are on heroin, according our hotel staff. Hmm, not really what you would expect from this town.


Saturday 5th February

So up at 5:30am again. Really cold, lots of layers on. More hopeful today about seeing tigers. The forest and landscape is beautiful, especially as the sun comes up, and we saw monkeys, maribou stalks and deer, but no tigers, again. All very disappointed, this is supposed to the park where you are most likely to see a tiger. We were all watching the side of the road and the forest very carefully looking for a tiger and I started to hallunicate, my mind so desperate to see those orange and black stripes. At the end they told us we can go on an elephant to see tigers, they know where they are, but it seems a bit staged so didnt want to do that. And it those people who did that said they had less than a minute to see the tigers. The other guys have left town but I have another day here anyway, so might try again to see the tigers in the morning.

Sunday 6th February.

My alarm was set for 5:30am but somehow I overslept so missed my chance to try and see the tigers. Then, an hour before I was going to check out and make my way to the train station, I realised that my train leaves tomorrow, not today. So I went and found the English couple to see about going to the park again with them this afternoon. It still seemed a bit expensive and I was not hopeful after two safaris of not seeing tigers. Then an American guy came over and we agreed to split the cost and the four of us went on the afternoon safari, with no high expectations as no tigers had been spotted in the park for a few days.

We did take a different route from the last few days. We stopped to look at some deer (yawn) and we saw a small owl in the hollow of a tree and stopped to look and take pix, before it hid inside the tree. We carried on for a few minutes then suddenly the guide shouts 'tiger, tiger, tiger' and pointed to the right side, and there, from behind a bush, came a large female tiger. About 15 metres away. She was not interested in us and just walked along between the trees, right past and behind us. Then she crossed the road and into the bushes. It was great to see such a magnificent creature in its own natural environment, no setup, no zoo. We were all very happy. If we hadnt stopped for the owl, we might have missed the tiger.

We carried on and started back towards the entrance gate, when another jeep reported seeing a tiger nearby, so we turned around, and our guide guessed that the tiger would be heading to the small waterhole. And within a few minutes it appeared from behind a bush and went down for a drink. It was a bit far away but when it had finished drinking it came towards us a bit and then headed up and away from us, taking small jumps as it went.

Two tigers in one day! We had a white-knuckle ride back to the entrance as there is a fine for being back late. Anyway, it was great to see the tigers, especially after the previous two disappointments. So glad I had the day here and made the effort to try again.