Sunday 20th February
Slept in, then after breakfast headed to the other side of town where there are many Buddhist temples. The area is a bit like a Buddhist temple theme park (in a good way) in that each temple is from a different country. So I first visited the Thai Buddhist temple, then the Japanese, Bhutanese, Tibetan and Chinese temples - I think I prefer Bhuddist temples to Hindu temples. There is also a big grey cool Buddha in the Lotus position. Had tasty Chow Mein at the roadside, cooked by a kid who might still be at schoool.
Sat down for a chai and a 20-something Indian guy came and sat beside me. He wanted to record our conversation but I declined saying I was just happy to chat. We talked about cultural differences and I maybe grilled him a bit too much about gender equality and women being expected to stay at home and not work. He said that if he had a wife he would 'not allow her to work'. I asked why, and after a pause he said "because my family and her family would not like it". So it seems that neither or his wife can decide this for themselves? To be fair, I have heard from elsewhere that this attitude is less common these days.
Caught a tuk-tuk with a random couple back to Gaya. Omelette for dinner; it is more common to have it for dinner than for breakfast. Train at 820pm
Monday 21st February
Arrived at Kolkata (Calcutta) just after 4am. Waited at the station for a bit, thinking the hotels might not be open, then got a taxi to Sudder Street which is in the backpacker area. Five hotels had no free rooms, or maybe the guys just didnt want to get up from sleeping just inside. Though it was dark in the narrow streets, it felt safe as there were guys setting up their chai stalls etc for the day. One of them brought me round to this hostel. Staying in a cheap dorm with just two others, very nice, good price, although one other guy moved out cos of the bed bugs in the night, so see how it goes.
Had a couple of hours sleep, and after porridge and papaya, walked down to the south entrance of the Victoria Memorial Park which was established in 1901 to, apparently, mark Victoria's diamond jubilee. The memorial itself is quite spectacular, and (as the LP says) a kind of cross between the Taj Mahal and the US Capitol building, with a nice park and lakes around it. The inside is shut on Mondays so I sat on a bench reading until the rain started.
Walking back I was accosted by 4 small grubby children, one with a baby, and they dragged me towards a fruit seller and they made it clear that they were not letting go until I had bought them some fruit, they nearly ripped my arm off. I made it clear that until they calmed down and let go of my arm, nothing was going to happen. At least they asked for food rather than money, so they got their fruit.
After some deliberation I bought some hiking boots. They look good but are not quite as waterproof as I hoped. Had kimchi and noodles in the street and then walked the long way round to Mother Theresa's mission to see about volunteering tomorrow. It was a Mission to find it, but The Sisters said I could just turn up in the morning. Found quicker way back with Sister's directions.
This morning at the station while I was queueing for a pre-paid taxi, at least one taxi driver said he could take me to Sudder street for 100 rupees, which they said was 35 rupees cheaper than getting the pre-paid taxi. I was right to be sceptical, the pre-paid taxi was 80 rupees. Its not much money but no wonder we often ignore them since they often tell lies.
Tuesday 22nd February
Up at 6:30am and walked to Mother's Theresa's Mission, aka Mother's House. It was just daylight and it was good watching the city wake up as I walked. I was a bit surprised to see about 100 other travellers at the House and it was all very organised and they all knew what was happening and I felt like the newbie; I had got the impression that it was a small outfit and we would just be washing up after breakfast and maybe a bit of cleaning.....
But actually you are supposed to register (yesterday) with the House and then they send groups all over the city to work in the morning. While we waited I asked a German guy what kind of work he does and he said sometimes bathing the residents (maybe 'patient' is not the right word) and helping them in the bathroom; I wasn't sure I was ready for this on my first day. He also made it sound like my non-registration was a big deal, so I thought about running off and back to bed!
But after prayers and a song, I decided spoke to the Sister who was in charge and she just gave me a two-day pass (I am only here two days anyway). She asked me what work I would like to do and I said "something straightforward". So she put me in a group of about 20 (mainly Spanish, a few Japanese) and off we went through the streets to a hospice.
Some of Mother's hospices are for the dying, to spend their last days with dignity, but this hospice is for the mentally and/or physically handicapped. Spanish Jose showed me around a bit and we began our work. First we had to wring out the cleaned bedsheets, then we brushed the courtyard and then handed out water and chai to the residents, then had a one hour chai and biscuits break ourselves. Some volunteers were shaving and giving massages to the residents. I admire the other volunteers who have been doing this for a few weeks or a few months because they are really helping these people and offering their friendship. Many of the residents seem very happy to see the volunteers each morning.
Next was lunch. We grab a plate of food and take it to a resident. There was an old man sitting on his bed near the back of the room. I took the plate over and sat next to him. I don't think he was handicapped, just a bit old and frail. I talked to him a bit but I dont think he understood. I sat with him while he ate and I passed him his water and after a bit he said 'finished', so maybe he had understood a bit. Anyway, I had obviously brought him too much food which I felt a bit bad about and will remember for tomorrow. I then helped to wash up the 100 or so plates and cups, surrounded by Italian guys. There were lots of different nationalities there which was cool. Just helping, and showing the residents that people care about them, for one morning seemed very worthwhile. Of course it seems like a big deal to me on my first day, something I didnt know anything about, but other people do this all the time, and good on them.
After, I walked to the train station I leave from, just to check where it is, then walked back to Sudder Street. Went for a walk and bought two more LPs! And fried omelette, and Bhel Puri. While having a chai, Penny whom I met at the Tiger Park came by so we chatted and arranged to go out tonight.
Had a couple of guys, at different times, come up for a chat and we talked about Australia, but as usual they soon change the conversation to whether I would like to buy some handicrafts or some hash. I told this to the third guy who it turned out wanted his train fare home or a sandwich. He didnt look too badly off to me so I told him that if I was going to hand out money it would be to people alot worse off than him.
Penny and I walked down to the Light and Sound show at the Victoria Memorial, it was in English and we sat on plastic chairs with about 30 others, facing the memorial, with a screen to the side. It was a bit like listening to a radio play, with the narration and the sound effects, as well as some still photos on the screen telling the history of Kolkata while coloured lights lit up the memorial to dramatic effect. It was ok for 20 rupees. We walked back to Sudder street and got some tasty street snacks and chai.
Wednesday 23rd February
Walked to Mother's house and then with the others to the hospice. Pretty much the same schedule as yesterday but there are possibly more volunteers than are needed so not always much to do. While we there, a guy was brought in for treatment, his wrists and lower arms were horribly swollen and there was an inch of bone sticking out of his arm, I dont really know what had happened to him. The sisters and a volunteer, who is presumably a nurse at home, fixed him up but people were saying he might lose both hands.
I played catch with one of the residents and chatted to an Indian guy and his daughter who live in Manchester (he since 1959). There is a multi-lingual Canadian guy working at Mother's house, who has been there 40 years and who worked with Mother Theresa. And a couple of us chatted to the hospice's Mother Superior in her office about what is was like to know and work with Mother Theresa, whose tomb I then visited at Mother's house. While I am in no way religious I instinctively clasped my hands in a prayer gesture as I visited the tomb, but I did the same thing at the main Buddhist temple in Bodhgaya the other day too.
From chatting to the locals, it seems that the unrest in Darjeeling, where I want to visit in the coming days, has finished. Some locals want seperatism and there had been violence, three people killed and transport strikes.
Slept in, then after breakfast headed to the other side of town where there are many Buddhist temples. The area is a bit like a Buddhist temple theme park (in a good way) in that each temple is from a different country. So I first visited the Thai Buddhist temple, then the Japanese, Bhutanese, Tibetan and Chinese temples - I think I prefer Bhuddist temples to Hindu temples. There is also a big grey cool Buddha in the Lotus position. Had tasty Chow Mein at the roadside, cooked by a kid who might still be at schoool.
Sat down for a chai and a 20-something Indian guy came and sat beside me. He wanted to record our conversation but I declined saying I was just happy to chat. We talked about cultural differences and I maybe grilled him a bit too much about gender equality and women being expected to stay at home and not work. He said that if he had a wife he would 'not allow her to work'. I asked why, and after a pause he said "because my family and her family would not like it". So it seems that neither or his wife can decide this for themselves? To be fair, I have heard from elsewhere that this attitude is less common these days.
Caught a tuk-tuk with a random couple back to Gaya. Omelette for dinner; it is more common to have it for dinner than for breakfast. Train at 820pm
Monday 21st February
Arrived at Kolkata (Calcutta) just after 4am. Waited at the station for a bit, thinking the hotels might not be open, then got a taxi to Sudder Street which is in the backpacker area. Five hotels had no free rooms, or maybe the guys just didnt want to get up from sleeping just inside. Though it was dark in the narrow streets, it felt safe as there were guys setting up their chai stalls etc for the day. One of them brought me round to this hostel. Staying in a cheap dorm with just two others, very nice, good price, although one other guy moved out cos of the bed bugs in the night, so see how it goes.
Had a couple of hours sleep, and after porridge and papaya, walked down to the south entrance of the Victoria Memorial Park which was established in 1901 to, apparently, mark Victoria's diamond jubilee. The memorial itself is quite spectacular, and (as the LP says) a kind of cross between the Taj Mahal and the US Capitol building, with a nice park and lakes around it. The inside is shut on Mondays so I sat on a bench reading until the rain started.
Walking back I was accosted by 4 small grubby children, one with a baby, and they dragged me towards a fruit seller and they made it clear that they were not letting go until I had bought them some fruit, they nearly ripped my arm off. I made it clear that until they calmed down and let go of my arm, nothing was going to happen. At least they asked for food rather than money, so they got their fruit.
After some deliberation I bought some hiking boots. They look good but are not quite as waterproof as I hoped. Had kimchi and noodles in the street and then walked the long way round to Mother Theresa's mission to see about volunteering tomorrow. It was a Mission to find it, but The Sisters said I could just turn up in the morning. Found quicker way back with Sister's directions.
This morning at the station while I was queueing for a pre-paid taxi, at least one taxi driver said he could take me to Sudder street for 100 rupees, which they said was 35 rupees cheaper than getting the pre-paid taxi. I was right to be sceptical, the pre-paid taxi was 80 rupees. Its not much money but no wonder we often ignore them since they often tell lies.
Tuesday 22nd February
Up at 6:30am and walked to Mother's Theresa's Mission, aka Mother's House. It was just daylight and it was good watching the city wake up as I walked. I was a bit surprised to see about 100 other travellers at the House and it was all very organised and they all knew what was happening and I felt like the newbie; I had got the impression that it was a small outfit and we would just be washing up after breakfast and maybe a bit of cleaning.....
But actually you are supposed to register (yesterday) with the House and then they send groups all over the city to work in the morning. While we waited I asked a German guy what kind of work he does and he said sometimes bathing the residents (maybe 'patient' is not the right word) and helping them in the bathroom; I wasn't sure I was ready for this on my first day. He also made it sound like my non-registration was a big deal, so I thought about running off and back to bed!
But after prayers and a song, I decided spoke to the Sister who was in charge and she just gave me a two-day pass (I am only here two days anyway). She asked me what work I would like to do and I said "something straightforward". So she put me in a group of about 20 (mainly Spanish, a few Japanese) and off we went through the streets to a hospice.
Some of Mother's hospices are for the dying, to spend their last days with dignity, but this hospice is for the mentally and/or physically handicapped. Spanish Jose showed me around a bit and we began our work. First we had to wring out the cleaned bedsheets, then we brushed the courtyard and then handed out water and chai to the residents, then had a one hour chai and biscuits break ourselves. Some volunteers were shaving and giving massages to the residents. I admire the other volunteers who have been doing this for a few weeks or a few months because they are really helping these people and offering their friendship. Many of the residents seem very happy to see the volunteers each morning.
Next was lunch. We grab a plate of food and take it to a resident. There was an old man sitting on his bed near the back of the room. I took the plate over and sat next to him. I don't think he was handicapped, just a bit old and frail. I talked to him a bit but I dont think he understood. I sat with him while he ate and I passed him his water and after a bit he said 'finished', so maybe he had understood a bit. Anyway, I had obviously brought him too much food which I felt a bit bad about and will remember for tomorrow. I then helped to wash up the 100 or so plates and cups, surrounded by Italian guys. There were lots of different nationalities there which was cool. Just helping, and showing the residents that people care about them, for one morning seemed very worthwhile. Of course it seems like a big deal to me on my first day, something I didnt know anything about, but other people do this all the time, and good on them.
After, I walked to the train station I leave from, just to check where it is, then walked back to Sudder Street. Went for a walk and bought two more LPs! And fried omelette, and Bhel Puri. While having a chai, Penny whom I met at the Tiger Park came by so we chatted and arranged to go out tonight.
Had a couple of guys, at different times, come up for a chat and we talked about Australia, but as usual they soon change the conversation to whether I would like to buy some handicrafts or some hash. I told this to the third guy who it turned out wanted his train fare home or a sandwich. He didnt look too badly off to me so I told him that if I was going to hand out money it would be to people alot worse off than him.
Penny and I walked down to the Light and Sound show at the Victoria Memorial, it was in English and we sat on plastic chairs with about 30 others, facing the memorial, with a screen to the side. It was a bit like listening to a radio play, with the narration and the sound effects, as well as some still photos on the screen telling the history of Kolkata while coloured lights lit up the memorial to dramatic effect. It was ok for 20 rupees. We walked back to Sudder street and got some tasty street snacks and chai.
Wednesday 23rd February
Walked to Mother's house and then with the others to the hospice. Pretty much the same schedule as yesterday but there are possibly more volunteers than are needed so not always much to do. While we there, a guy was brought in for treatment, his wrists and lower arms were horribly swollen and there was an inch of bone sticking out of his arm, I dont really know what had happened to him. The sisters and a volunteer, who is presumably a nurse at home, fixed him up but people were saying he might lose both hands.
I played catch with one of the residents and chatted to an Indian guy and his daughter who live in Manchester (he since 1959). There is a multi-lingual Canadian guy working at Mother's house, who has been there 40 years and who worked with Mother Theresa. And a couple of us chatted to the hospice's Mother Superior in her office about what is was like to know and work with Mother Theresa, whose tomb I then visited at Mother's house. While I am in no way religious I instinctively clasped my hands in a prayer gesture as I visited the tomb, but I did the same thing at the main Buddhist temple in Bodhgaya the other day too.
From chatting to the locals, it seems that the unrest in Darjeeling, where I want to visit in the coming days, has finished. Some locals want seperatism and there had been violence, three people killed and transport strikes.
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