Sunday 29th August
We left Allepo and headed to the Syria/Turkey border at Bab al-Hawa. The usual admin nonsense and through in an an hour or so. And straight into the Asi mountains, climbing up and up. We passed through Iskendrun where we could see the Med and through Adana and Tarsus. The mountains were quite stunning, a bit like the Dolomites, i guess, on a smaller scale. Turkey is more modern than i expected; exellent motorways make a change from Syria. We mainly saw trucks crawling up the hills, each driver in a white wife-beater singlet. Took a while to find a bushcamping spot. The first place we tried turned out to be a smelly rubbish tip, but just before dark we found a layby. Either side of the road were fields and hills in distance. A good spot.
Monday 30th August
Packed up and drove an hour into the Cappadocia region, of which Goreme is the main attraction. Here are the fairy chimneys, created by volcanoes millenia ago and formed from flooding and wind and rain. Very picturesque as we came down the hill. We stopped at the viewing point overlooking the rocks and the town of Goreme, accompanied by mellow Turkish music from the souvenir stands. Lovely! Camping among the rock, near the centre of Goreme.
30.8.10
Syria continued
Wednesay 25 august
I wanted to have another look around the Old City and the Christian quarter of Damascus so i took a taxi in with the guys and went off by myself. Spent more time there than yesterday, wandering down all the quiet back alleys, having a nose in the courtyards, kids playing, old men chatting.
Met back up with Sarah and Phil. Struggled to find somewhere for lunch because there is not much point restaurants opening during Ramandan when people are fasting. But we eventually found a place. Not much local food to choose from, so I had Chicken Teriyaki with vegies and noodlez which was good but very salty.
We had a bit more of a wander around then internet then a taxi back to the campsite. Except we had a big row in the street with the taxi driver. Won't bore you with the details, maybe 20% our fault, 80% his. Thought he was going to punch me after we said he was ripping us off and he was going to just abandon us half way home. Another guy, a local salesman from Palestine, came over and mediated and gave us a lift home. He was really helpful and wouldn't accept any money from us
Some of the guys went to Beirut yesterday for a day trip. Sounds like a cool place, very modern, lots of money there, and some historic sights. But the day trip cost over $150 so i don't regret not going.
And last night some of them went to the official Gusiness Book of Records World's Largest Restaurant. I got take away pizza...
Thursday
We left Damasus and left Phil there cos he has to go to get regular injections at the hospital for his gammy hand.
After a long drive on the major highway through the desert, past signposts to Baghdad and Iraq, we arrived upon Palmiyra which is famous for its Roman ruins. Such ruins are not necessarily top of my list but these are pretty spectacular. First, you pay to get into the temple area which is reasonably intact. You can just wander around, there are no barriers or restrictions and we were the only ones there. Then we left the temple complex and crossed the road to the Monumental Arch and the Colonnade and the Civic Centre. Gav, Mac, Herman, Dan and I then headed for the Qala'at ibn Maan, also known as the Arab Castle or citadel which is at the top of the hill. Ignoring the blistering heat and steep climb we stormed up to the castle in 20 minutes and near passed out when we got there! The castle was originally built in the 12th century by the Crusaders. I can't imagine bringing the stones up that hill in the heat. Anyway, the view down onto the Roman ruins was spectacular, and well worth it. Only at the top did we realise that you can drive up from the other side. Surprisingly we were able to buy cold water up there and swigged it on the way down. All the historic places we have visited in the last couple of weeks just allow visitors to wander around freely without telling you where you can and cannot go. Its good. We bushcamped that night in the middle of the desert under a bright near-full moon; like having the bedroom light on.
Friday 27 August
Left the desert and headed out to Crac Des Chavaliers, where Phil was waiting for us. The castle was first a fortress in 1031 and so is in pretty good condition for such an old building and it has spectacular views of the valley below. But, really, i am not sure why it has such a great reputation; its just a big castle on a hill. It was kind of fun wandering around and finding secret passages, and there was a cool gothic area but not that memorable. But lunch was. We had garlic chicken and chips with garlic hummus and mezza, other dips with cucumber, tomato, carrots, and pitta bread, all at a good price. Back on the truck to Allepo.
Staying at the Hotel Syria in Aleppo. We have a fridge and TV and a fan, and AC that doesnt work. This is luxury. Early evening, Sarah and I went for a walk. Asked for directions to the Souq Bab Antakya (market) and easily found our way there. Because it was Friday, holy day for muslims, the market was pretty well shut, which was a bonus. The souq, like the one in Damascus is kind of in a tunnel and because it was shut we could walk through quietly and look at the carved wooden shop doors and the ceiling and the architecture. It was a bit gothic and a bit medieval and atmospheric. At the other end of the souq we came out to the edge of the citadel which is on a manmade mound which was originally built around 300BC. It basically looks like a castle. As it was twilight, the white stone had turned a bit pink. We will have a proper look round tomorrow. We heaed back and picked up meat and vegie pitta from a very local restaurant; the guys there were welcoming and the food was great.
Saturday 28 August
Walked through the souk early morning; pretty quiet. Into the citadel across the moat. Had a wander around but over castle-type things now. Bit more wandering in the souk then back to hotel for lunch. Went for a walk by myself in the arvo to the Christian quarter, a bit more upmarket, designer shops, alleyways, catholic church, Museum of Popular Tradition. Museum a bit dull but they had some old weapons and machines and radios. A narrow dark alley where no one would find you. Dinner near the citadel with Sarah. Then sheesha bar with Gav, Dan and Greg. A little spun out, definitely not to be mixed with alcohol, but good to be on the local guys favourite hangout.
I wanted to have another look around the Old City and the Christian quarter of Damascus so i took a taxi in with the guys and went off by myself. Spent more time there than yesterday, wandering down all the quiet back alleys, having a nose in the courtyards, kids playing, old men chatting.
Met back up with Sarah and Phil. Struggled to find somewhere for lunch because there is not much point restaurants opening during Ramandan when people are fasting. But we eventually found a place. Not much local food to choose from, so I had Chicken Teriyaki with vegies and noodlez which was good but very salty.
We had a bit more of a wander around then internet then a taxi back to the campsite. Except we had a big row in the street with the taxi driver. Won't bore you with the details, maybe 20% our fault, 80% his. Thought he was going to punch me after we said he was ripping us off and he was going to just abandon us half way home. Another guy, a local salesman from Palestine, came over and mediated and gave us a lift home. He was really helpful and wouldn't accept any money from us
Some of the guys went to Beirut yesterday for a day trip. Sounds like a cool place, very modern, lots of money there, and some historic sights. But the day trip cost over $150 so i don't regret not going.
And last night some of them went to the official Gusiness Book of Records World's Largest Restaurant. I got take away pizza...
Thursday
We left Damasus and left Phil there cos he has to go to get regular injections at the hospital for his gammy hand.
After a long drive on the major highway through the desert, past signposts to Baghdad and Iraq, we arrived upon Palmiyra which is famous for its Roman ruins. Such ruins are not necessarily top of my list but these are pretty spectacular. First, you pay to get into the temple area which is reasonably intact. You can just wander around, there are no barriers or restrictions and we were the only ones there. Then we left the temple complex and crossed the road to the Monumental Arch and the Colonnade and the Civic Centre. Gav, Mac, Herman, Dan and I then headed for the Qala'at ibn Maan, also known as the Arab Castle or citadel which is at the top of the hill. Ignoring the blistering heat and steep climb we stormed up to the castle in 20 minutes and near passed out when we got there! The castle was originally built in the 12th century by the Crusaders. I can't imagine bringing the stones up that hill in the heat. Anyway, the view down onto the Roman ruins was spectacular, and well worth it. Only at the top did we realise that you can drive up from the other side. Surprisingly we were able to buy cold water up there and swigged it on the way down. All the historic places we have visited in the last couple of weeks just allow visitors to wander around freely without telling you where you can and cannot go. Its good. We bushcamped that night in the middle of the desert under a bright near-full moon; like having the bedroom light on.
Friday 27 August
Left the desert and headed out to Crac Des Chavaliers, where Phil was waiting for us. The castle was first a fortress in 1031 and so is in pretty good condition for such an old building and it has spectacular views of the valley below. But, really, i am not sure why it has such a great reputation; its just a big castle on a hill. It was kind of fun wandering around and finding secret passages, and there was a cool gothic area but not that memorable. But lunch was. We had garlic chicken and chips with garlic hummus and mezza, other dips with cucumber, tomato, carrots, and pitta bread, all at a good price. Back on the truck to Allepo.
Staying at the Hotel Syria in Aleppo. We have a fridge and TV and a fan, and AC that doesnt work. This is luxury. Early evening, Sarah and I went for a walk. Asked for directions to the Souq Bab Antakya (market) and easily found our way there. Because it was Friday, holy day for muslims, the market was pretty well shut, which was a bonus. The souq, like the one in Damascus is kind of in a tunnel and because it was shut we could walk through quietly and look at the carved wooden shop doors and the ceiling and the architecture. It was a bit gothic and a bit medieval and atmospheric. At the other end of the souq we came out to the edge of the citadel which is on a manmade mound which was originally built around 300BC. It basically looks like a castle. As it was twilight, the white stone had turned a bit pink. We will have a proper look round tomorrow. We heaed back and picked up meat and vegie pitta from a very local restaurant; the guys there were welcoming and the food was great.
Saturday 28 August
Walked through the souk early morning; pretty quiet. Into the citadel across the moat. Had a wander around but over castle-type things now. Bit more wandering in the souk then back to hotel for lunch. Went for a walk by myself in the arvo to the Christian quarter, a bit more upmarket, designer shops, alleyways, catholic church, Museum of Popular Tradition. Museum a bit dull but they had some old weapons and machines and radios. A narrow dark alley where no one would find you. Dinner near the citadel with Sarah. Then sheesha bar with Gav, Dan and Greg. A little spun out, definitely not to be mixed with alcohol, but good to be on the local guys favourite hangout.
25.8.10
Syria
Sunday 22nd August
Late in the afternoon we crossed the border at Ramtha, into Syria. We use a fixer at this border so the process was pretty straightforward, although there wre three seperate checkpoints where guys came on the truck to check our passports. No worries. We drove for an hour or so through some small towns. All the locals waved and smiled as we went by. The point is, that in the West we might get the impression that Jordan and Syria is populated by people who would hate us. But they have been very hospitable. Axis of evil?
Arrived here at Bosra. Sleeping on the roof above the restaurant. For dinner we had beef with pitta bread and cucumber and tomato and hummus and tz??? Delicious. The owner let us use the internet but blog sites and Facebook are blocked in Syria, hence the lack of communication.
Monday 23rd August
Slept on the roof of the restaurant here in Bosra last night. Despite ear plugs, woken at 4am by the Call to Prayer. It seemed to go for about 45 minutes. Not impressed. Maybe it goes more often during Ramadan; surely its not always like this?
Made our breakfast of porridge and then fried egg sandwich using the food from the truck, the same as every day. Cooked and eaten in the small square outside the restaurant. After breakfast we had a wander around the roman ruins for an hour. Not many people about and you are free to just wander about.
Then we paid $3 to enter the citadel. It started off as a Roman theatre which is still in good condition. The theatre has seating for 15000 people and is intact and free-standing, as opposed to most whereby the seating is built into the hillside. When we entered the main arena there were only us few there so We had the place to ourselves. We took turns to stand on the huge stage and pretend to be actors(!) and had pix taken alone, dwarfed by the size of the seating area. Just as we were leaving 40 Italian tourists rocked up! Behind the seating area was a system of tunnels allowing people to easily get in and out of the seating area; it was like a modern footy stadium. Beyond the theatre a fotress was built, like an normal castle with a moat. Anyway, the theatre was immense and we had a great time there; I haven't seen something like that before.
At lunchtime we hit the road. It has got a little cooler as we head north the landscape has become a little more flat and green. We drove into Damascus, Syrias capital and the traffic was pretty crazy and we got a bit lost. So Gav flagged a taxi, told him where we wanted to go, and we followed him. Luckily we didnt have to follow the signs to Iraq. The campsite is a bit out of town but we have the place to ourselves and the amenities are good. Can have a shower for the first time in a few days.
We were set up by 3.30 so headed into town. 17 of us in a minibus. We went to the Old city part of Damascus. (the new part is all traffic). Went via the post office to the big Souq (market). It is like a tunnel with a metal curved roof, which has holes in it from when the locals were fighting the French for their independence in 1925. We had a walk around, stopping for waffles with chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauce and sprinkles (hundreds and thousands). A bit more walking then a taxi back. The taxi driver tried his best but when he missed the junction on a 3 lane highway, he decided to reverse 200 metres back to it. A bit hairy, as soon as we were back on track he lit a cigarette.
Tuesday
A slow, lazy start to the day then headed into the city at 10:30. Phil, Sarah, Katey and I went back to the Souq and surrounding streets and had a longer walk around. Phil and Katey looking to buy sheeshas. We headed to the Umayyad Mosque and were pleasantly surprised when they said we could go in. The girls didnt want to go in but Phil and I did so in we went. But first they made us put on these modesty skirts, because we only had shorts on! Can't imagine my legs tempting anyone! Originally a Byzantine cathedral in AD705, it was converted to a mosque. The courtyard has cool with columns and a fountain to wash your feet before entering the mosque properly. So we had a wash and went in. Obviously, there were lots of people praying so we didn't hang around, but it was good to see. We also saw Saladin's mausoleum (Saladin was a muslim warrior hero who fought against the Pope's Christian Crusaders). Next we walked east beyond the citadel towards the Christian quarter. There are lots of small alleys, and we had lunch in a small restaurant. Chicken and coloured rice, a tomato sauce and baita which is like a cucumber yogurt.
We carried on walking east as far as the Christian quarter which was lovely. Lots of European architecture, looked kind of swiss but there is alot of French influence there. I helped a local old lady with her shopping (ah!) and she spoke french. I didn't realise her car was going to be quite so far away. We stopped and bought some cheap Syrian whiskey and at a bar for some flat horrible Syrian beer. Had a quick walk around the Roman wall, then back to the Souq so the guys could buy their sheeshas. In the souq, as in the rest of the city, it was very calm, just people going about their business; no feeling that we were gone be robbed or frowned upon. The shopkeepers don't hassle you at all and just say welcome. You buy the tobacco for the sheeshas from a kiosk. They give you a piece of card with all the flavours listed and you tick the one you want - strawberry in my case. On the way we took Phil to the hospital to get his near-sepctic finger to be looked at, its a mess. The taxi driver kindly took him in to help with translation, so me, Katey and Sarah sat in the driverless taxi outside for an hour. We came back and Katey set up her sheesha which is really cool, big and ornate. We had a bit of a smoke and got light-headed, very communal. walked east beyond the citadel towards the Christian quarter. There are lots of small alleys, and we had lunch in a small restaurant. chicken and coloured rice, a tomato sauce and baita which is like a cucumber yogurt.
Late in the afternoon we crossed the border at Ramtha, into Syria. We use a fixer at this border so the process was pretty straightforward, although there wre three seperate checkpoints where guys came on the truck to check our passports. No worries. We drove for an hour or so through some small towns. All the locals waved and smiled as we went by. The point is, that in the West we might get the impression that Jordan and Syria is populated by people who would hate us. But they have been very hospitable. Axis of evil?
Arrived here at Bosra. Sleeping on the roof above the restaurant. For dinner we had beef with pitta bread and cucumber and tomato and hummus and tz??? Delicious. The owner let us use the internet but blog sites and Facebook are blocked in Syria, hence the lack of communication.
Monday 23rd August
Slept on the roof of the restaurant here in Bosra last night. Despite ear plugs, woken at 4am by the Call to Prayer. It seemed to go for about 45 minutes. Not impressed. Maybe it goes more often during Ramadan; surely its not always like this?
Made our breakfast of porridge and then fried egg sandwich using the food from the truck, the same as every day. Cooked and eaten in the small square outside the restaurant. After breakfast we had a wander around the roman ruins for an hour. Not many people about and you are free to just wander about.
Then we paid $3 to enter the citadel. It started off as a Roman theatre which is still in good condition. The theatre has seating for 15000 people and is intact and free-standing, as opposed to most whereby the seating is built into the hillside. When we entered the main arena there were only us few there so We had the place to ourselves. We took turns to stand on the huge stage and pretend to be actors(!) and had pix taken alone, dwarfed by the size of the seating area. Just as we were leaving 40 Italian tourists rocked up! Behind the seating area was a system of tunnels allowing people to easily get in and out of the seating area; it was like a modern footy stadium. Beyond the theatre a fotress was built, like an normal castle with a moat. Anyway, the theatre was immense and we had a great time there; I haven't seen something like that before.
At lunchtime we hit the road. It has got a little cooler as we head north the landscape has become a little more flat and green. We drove into Damascus, Syrias capital and the traffic was pretty crazy and we got a bit lost. So Gav flagged a taxi, told him where we wanted to go, and we followed him. Luckily we didnt have to follow the signs to Iraq. The campsite is a bit out of town but we have the place to ourselves and the amenities are good. Can have a shower for the first time in a few days.
We were set up by 3.30 so headed into town. 17 of us in a minibus. We went to the Old city part of Damascus. (the new part is all traffic). Went via the post office to the big Souq (market). It is like a tunnel with a metal curved roof, which has holes in it from when the locals were fighting the French for their independence in 1925. We had a walk around, stopping for waffles with chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauce and sprinkles (hundreds and thousands). A bit more walking then a taxi back. The taxi driver tried his best but when he missed the junction on a 3 lane highway, he decided to reverse 200 metres back to it. A bit hairy, as soon as we were back on track he lit a cigarette.
Tuesday
A slow, lazy start to the day then headed into the city at 10:30. Phil, Sarah, Katey and I went back to the Souq and surrounding streets and had a longer walk around. Phil and Katey looking to buy sheeshas. We headed to the Umayyad Mosque and were pleasantly surprised when they said we could go in. The girls didnt want to go in but Phil and I did so in we went. But first they made us put on these modesty skirts, because we only had shorts on! Can't imagine my legs tempting anyone! Originally a Byzantine cathedral in AD705, it was converted to a mosque. The courtyard has cool with columns and a fountain to wash your feet before entering the mosque properly. So we had a wash and went in. Obviously, there were lots of people praying so we didn't hang around, but it was good to see. We also saw Saladin's mausoleum (Saladin was a muslim warrior hero who fought against the Pope's Christian Crusaders). Next we walked east beyond the citadel towards the Christian quarter. There are lots of small alleys, and we had lunch in a small restaurant. Chicken and coloured rice, a tomato sauce and baita which is like a cucumber yogurt.
We carried on walking east as far as the Christian quarter which was lovely. Lots of European architecture, looked kind of swiss but there is alot of French influence there. I helped a local old lady with her shopping (ah!) and she spoke french. I didn't realise her car was going to be quite so far away. We stopped and bought some cheap Syrian whiskey and at a bar for some flat horrible Syrian beer. Had a quick walk around the Roman wall, then back to the Souq so the guys could buy their sheeshas. In the souq, as in the rest of the city, it was very calm, just people going about their business; no feeling that we were gone be robbed or frowned upon. The shopkeepers don't hassle you at all and just say welcome. You buy the tobacco for the sheeshas from a kiosk. They give you a piece of card with all the flavours listed and you tick the one you want - strawberry in my case. On the way we took Phil to the hospital to get his near-sepctic finger to be looked at, its a mess. The taxi driver kindly took him in to help with translation, so me, Katey and Sarah sat in the driverless taxi outside for an hour. We came back and Katey set up her sheesha which is really cool, big and ornate. We had a bit of a smoke and got light-headed, very communal. walked east beyond the citadel towards the Christian quarter. There are lots of small alleys, and we had lunch in a small restaurant. chicken and coloured rice, a tomato sauce and baita which is like a cucumber yogurt.
Jordan
Hello. A few things. Sorry these posts are a bit long. This is partly cos i am not able to blog so often cos internet is harder to find, and also some blog sites and facebook are sometimes censored so you can't access them. I don't think this will be a problem once we get to Turkey next week. Also, this is acting as my diary (whereas I had a seperate written diary before). So, this blog might include some boring facts and figures which I have recorded for myself). cheers.
Tuesday 17th of August
Slept on the hostel roof, under the stars with a breeze coming off the ocean. A warm breeze so at times it was like someone pointing hairdryers at you. Had complimentary breakfast then sat by the pool reading. The Chileans (Herman and Carolina) arrived about 4pm. I was having a nap in the shade by the pool. The heat makes me sleepy, plus there wasn't that much else to do. So we sat around waiting for the truck to turn up, but by midnight it hadn't arrived so off to bed.
Wednesday
Awoken at 7am by some of the guys from the truck gathered round my bed. They had arrived at 3am after the ferry had, of course, been delayed. The same as me, they could not sleep in after 7am cos its so hot. So they hadnt had much sleep and seemed slightly delirious and shattered and i am not surprised. But it was great to see them and hear their stories and start up the banter again. Many of us went snorkelling in the ocean across the road. There was lots of coral and some colourful fish. There is a rope in the water to guide you round so i stayed pretty close to the rope cos the water was pretty choppy. A great start to the day. We went in search of lunch but the only cheap option was, sadly, Maccas. Aqaba was quiet cos its Ramadan. Maccas said we couldnt eat inside the restaurant, or just outside; they insisted we went away. Anyway, so we ended up eating on a the grass in the middle of a roundabout. So we may have offended local custom by eating in front of people who are fasting for Ramadan. Ooops.
At lunchtime we headed to Wadi Rum. This place was made famous by Lawrence of Arabia. We bushcamped near the entrance. Its alot like the moon. We were the only ones there and most of us slept under the stars and moon again. Great to be in Great Outdoors again.
Thursday
The truck is different from the one we had before and everything is in a new place so i am like a newbie having to ask where stuff is and where it goes. We went into Wadi Rum this morning in jeeps and the scenery is amazing. But to be honest it isn't any better than where we had slept last night. Nevermind, we did get to see some old rock paintings and sand dunes, and it only cost 10 bucks. Then we carried on to Wadi Musa which is next to Petra. Actually staying in a nice hotel.
Friday 20th
Last night we sat around on the patio outside the hotel. Team Canada made Chicken Shewarma(?) and salad which was real good. Had a smoke of the shisha. Made me a bit light-headed which it hasn't in the past. But its just a novelty really and not that exciting. Soem of the guys were a bit drunk and annoying so i went to bed.
This morning we were up at 6am. Quick breakfast, then a 15 minute taxi to Petra. It was about 35 US dollars to get in. Apparently it was 49 degrees today although i dont think it was quite that hot. We were there most of the day, lots to see, lots of walking but really not that many people which was a bonus.
Petra was lived in from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD so the architecture reflects this and there are Byzantine buildings as well the older Nabataeans ones. The first part was 'The Siq' which is a 1200 metre long deep gorge created by tectonic plate movement. They have had 3 big earthquakes here, a long time ago. There was some anticipation as we walked along the gorge because we knew that at the end of the gorge is the highlight of Petra known as 'The Treasury'. This is the building carved into the rock that you would see on a TV show about Petra. It is 30m wide and 43m high and appears gradually as you come to the end of the gorge, and it was spectacular, to think it was carved in the 1st century BC as a tomb for a Nabataean King. So we sat there looking at it for a while and taking a rest.
Then we spent the next six hours walking around the rest of the Lost City which includes some steets, temples and tombs. Phil and I did an extra walk up the hillside to Ad-Deir (The Monastery) which was very rewarding as the monestary is also cut into into rock, and there are some spectacular views of surrounding mountains and desert. We came back down after an hour or so and met the others. We then walked back slowly to the entrance stopping for litres of water along the way. We stopped at The Treasury to enjoy it once more before heading out.
After, it was decided that we should reward ourselves by going to Pizza Hut. Hmmm. Not really my choice but there you go. Anyway, the taxi driver took us around and couldnt find it so we ended up at some other place which was ok. I would have eaten anything after a long day of walking. I have to say again that the locals are so friendly, especially compared to some in other countries on the trip. Often when we buy stuff in the shop next door they give an extra gift like a small cake or some tea and they take the time to talk to you. Maybe this is only because its Ramadan, I don't know, but its very generous anyway. At Petra, the girls got a free ride on a horse because the guy had seen us at his family's hotel the night before. No hassle, no strings attached. And i went to buy a tacky souvenir expecting it to be over-priced but it was just a couple of bucks. Welcome to Jordan.
Saturday 21 August
We left Wadi Musa and Petra and headed along the Desert Highway and through Tafila and across Wadi Hasa. Wadi means valley and Jordan has lots of them and they are spectaculat gorges, a bit like the Grand Canyon but more rounded and a lighter shade of beige. We arrived at Karak and made our way up the hill to Karak castle, narrowly avoiding bringing down overhead cables with the height of the truck. The castle was first built by Crusaders in the 12th Century, one of many castles they built from Southern Turkey down to Southern Jordan. The castle changed hands as battles were won and lost against the Muslim armies of Saladin. Not a huge castle but lots of dead-ends to get lost in. Also learned that the cities of Sodom and Gomorah were round there. According to the bible, God told Lot that he was going to burn down both cities because they were rife with sin, but that he would let Lot and his wife run away, but that they should not look back. God duly burned down the cities, and Lot's wife looked back so God turned her into a pillar of salt. Don't look back in Anger?
We had lunch by the castle. The guy brought us a very low value meat sandwich. We pointed this out to him, and, to be fair, he brought us another one. As we left the town, everyone seemed pleased to see us and shouted 'Welcome' as we drove past, slowly in a traffic jam.
We continued on the Kings Highway and the Dead Sea highway. Up and down almost barren valleys. Eventually we came to a sign that said we were at zero metres above sea level, and down in the distance we could see the Dead Sea. It still took a while to get to the sea, but the coastline was like something from mars. We stopped the truck, grabbed our stuff and made our way down the rocks. And walked into the Dead Sea. You could see the salt and other minerals on the surface. And you really do float. So we went around on our backs and I had the tourist cliche photo taken of me sitting up reading the newspaper. You can't really do breast stroke cos its hard get your feet under the water while on your front. But you can 'stand up' straight without touching the bottom or treading water. And you can 'cycle' to move around. After a while you start to realise the salt has got into cracks that you didn't know had. And you certainly don't want to get the water in your eyes or mouth.
Also in the water were hot springs so some bits were really hot. And there is a stream of hot spring water coming down the cliffs so we had a bath in the stream but it was a bit too hot really, not refreshing.
We left the sea and headed a km up the road and bushcamped in a kind of gravel car park just off the road. From there we watched the sun set over the Dead Sea, with Israel clearly visible on the other side of the water, and it was lit up after dark. Meanwhile, me and South African girls, Paige and Jess, cooked dinner. Beef and vegie stir-fry and mash and carrotts. We did a pretty good job. We also washed the pots and put away the grill and charcoal so back to being sweaty and dirty and no shower. Slept under the moon and stars, until the bugs got a bit annoying so put me tent up.
Sunday 22nd August
In the morning we headed to Mount Nebo which is, apparently, where Moses came at the end of his life. He looked across to Israel. If it had been today he wouldn't have seen it cos of the haze. We had a better view from our campsite this morning. It wasn't great, but there was a mosaic from the 5th century that had been made to honour Moses.
Onwards we went. On the outskirts of Amman we stopped at Burger King. I kind of whinged about taking in USA culture but if you can't beat them, join them. So i had Whoppper with Cheese! To be fair, there is not much else open because of Ramadan; the locals don't eat during the day. We drove around Amman, and saw, apparently, the largest flagpole in the world, at 127m.
Tuesday 17th of August
Slept on the hostel roof, under the stars with a breeze coming off the ocean. A warm breeze so at times it was like someone pointing hairdryers at you. Had complimentary breakfast then sat by the pool reading. The Chileans (Herman and Carolina) arrived about 4pm. I was having a nap in the shade by the pool. The heat makes me sleepy, plus there wasn't that much else to do. So we sat around waiting for the truck to turn up, but by midnight it hadn't arrived so off to bed.
Wednesday
Awoken at 7am by some of the guys from the truck gathered round my bed. They had arrived at 3am after the ferry had, of course, been delayed. The same as me, they could not sleep in after 7am cos its so hot. So they hadnt had much sleep and seemed slightly delirious and shattered and i am not surprised. But it was great to see them and hear their stories and start up the banter again. Many of us went snorkelling in the ocean across the road. There was lots of coral and some colourful fish. There is a rope in the water to guide you round so i stayed pretty close to the rope cos the water was pretty choppy. A great start to the day. We went in search of lunch but the only cheap option was, sadly, Maccas. Aqaba was quiet cos its Ramadan. Maccas said we couldnt eat inside the restaurant, or just outside; they insisted we went away. Anyway, so we ended up eating on a the grass in the middle of a roundabout. So we may have offended local custom by eating in front of people who are fasting for Ramadan. Ooops.
At lunchtime we headed to Wadi Rum. This place was made famous by Lawrence of Arabia. We bushcamped near the entrance. Its alot like the moon. We were the only ones there and most of us slept under the stars and moon again. Great to be in Great Outdoors again.
Thursday
The truck is different from the one we had before and everything is in a new place so i am like a newbie having to ask where stuff is and where it goes. We went into Wadi Rum this morning in jeeps and the scenery is amazing. But to be honest it isn't any better than where we had slept last night. Nevermind, we did get to see some old rock paintings and sand dunes, and it only cost 10 bucks. Then we carried on to Wadi Musa which is next to Petra. Actually staying in a nice hotel.
Friday 20th
Last night we sat around on the patio outside the hotel. Team Canada made Chicken Shewarma(?) and salad which was real good. Had a smoke of the shisha. Made me a bit light-headed which it hasn't in the past. But its just a novelty really and not that exciting. Soem of the guys were a bit drunk and annoying so i went to bed.
This morning we were up at 6am. Quick breakfast, then a 15 minute taxi to Petra. It was about 35 US dollars to get in. Apparently it was 49 degrees today although i dont think it was quite that hot. We were there most of the day, lots to see, lots of walking but really not that many people which was a bonus.
Petra was lived in from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD so the architecture reflects this and there are Byzantine buildings as well the older Nabataeans ones. The first part was 'The Siq' which is a 1200 metre long deep gorge created by tectonic plate movement. They have had 3 big earthquakes here, a long time ago. There was some anticipation as we walked along the gorge because we knew that at the end of the gorge is the highlight of Petra known as 'The Treasury'. This is the building carved into the rock that you would see on a TV show about Petra. It is 30m wide and 43m high and appears gradually as you come to the end of the gorge, and it was spectacular, to think it was carved in the 1st century BC as a tomb for a Nabataean King. So we sat there looking at it for a while and taking a rest.
Then we spent the next six hours walking around the rest of the Lost City which includes some steets, temples and tombs. Phil and I did an extra walk up the hillside to Ad-Deir (The Monastery) which was very rewarding as the monestary is also cut into into rock, and there are some spectacular views of surrounding mountains and desert. We came back down after an hour or so and met the others. We then walked back slowly to the entrance stopping for litres of water along the way. We stopped at The Treasury to enjoy it once more before heading out.
After, it was decided that we should reward ourselves by going to Pizza Hut. Hmmm. Not really my choice but there you go. Anyway, the taxi driver took us around and couldnt find it so we ended up at some other place which was ok. I would have eaten anything after a long day of walking. I have to say again that the locals are so friendly, especially compared to some in other countries on the trip. Often when we buy stuff in the shop next door they give an extra gift like a small cake or some tea and they take the time to talk to you. Maybe this is only because its Ramadan, I don't know, but its very generous anyway. At Petra, the girls got a free ride on a horse because the guy had seen us at his family's hotel the night before. No hassle, no strings attached. And i went to buy a tacky souvenir expecting it to be over-priced but it was just a couple of bucks. Welcome to Jordan.
Saturday 21 August
We left Wadi Musa and Petra and headed along the Desert Highway and through Tafila and across Wadi Hasa. Wadi means valley and Jordan has lots of them and they are spectaculat gorges, a bit like the Grand Canyon but more rounded and a lighter shade of beige. We arrived at Karak and made our way up the hill to Karak castle, narrowly avoiding bringing down overhead cables with the height of the truck. The castle was first built by Crusaders in the 12th Century, one of many castles they built from Southern Turkey down to Southern Jordan. The castle changed hands as battles were won and lost against the Muslim armies of Saladin. Not a huge castle but lots of dead-ends to get lost in. Also learned that the cities of Sodom and Gomorah were round there. According to the bible, God told Lot that he was going to burn down both cities because they were rife with sin, but that he would let Lot and his wife run away, but that they should not look back. God duly burned down the cities, and Lot's wife looked back so God turned her into a pillar of salt. Don't look back in Anger?
We had lunch by the castle. The guy brought us a very low value meat sandwich. We pointed this out to him, and, to be fair, he brought us another one. As we left the town, everyone seemed pleased to see us and shouted 'Welcome' as we drove past, slowly in a traffic jam.
We continued on the Kings Highway and the Dead Sea highway. Up and down almost barren valleys. Eventually we came to a sign that said we were at zero metres above sea level, and down in the distance we could see the Dead Sea. It still took a while to get to the sea, but the coastline was like something from mars. We stopped the truck, grabbed our stuff and made our way down the rocks. And walked into the Dead Sea. You could see the salt and other minerals on the surface. And you really do float. So we went around on our backs and I had the tourist cliche photo taken of me sitting up reading the newspaper. You can't really do breast stroke cos its hard get your feet under the water while on your front. But you can 'stand up' straight without touching the bottom or treading water. And you can 'cycle' to move around. After a while you start to realise the salt has got into cracks that you didn't know had. And you certainly don't want to get the water in your eyes or mouth.
Also in the water were hot springs so some bits were really hot. And there is a stream of hot spring water coming down the cliffs so we had a bath in the stream but it was a bit too hot really, not refreshing.
We left the sea and headed a km up the road and bushcamped in a kind of gravel car park just off the road. From there we watched the sun set over the Dead Sea, with Israel clearly visible on the other side of the water, and it was lit up after dark. Meanwhile, me and South African girls, Paige and Jess, cooked dinner. Beef and vegie stir-fry and mash and carrotts. We did a pretty good job. We also washed the pots and put away the grill and charcoal so back to being sweaty and dirty and no shower. Slept under the moon and stars, until the bugs got a bit annoying so put me tent up.
Sunday 22nd August
In the morning we headed to Mount Nebo which is, apparently, where Moses came at the end of his life. He looked across to Israel. If it had been today he wouldn't have seen it cos of the haze. We had a better view from our campsite this morning. It wasn't great, but there was a mosaic from the 5th century that had been made to honour Moses.
Onwards we went. On the outskirts of Amman we stopped at Burger King. I kind of whinged about taking in USA culture but if you can't beat them, join them. So i had Whoppper with Cheese! To be fair, there is not much else open because of Ramadan; the locals don't eat during the day. We drove around Amman, and saw, apparently, the largest flagpole in the world, at 127m.
17.8.10
London-Rome-Amman-Aqaba
Sat on the plane for an hour at Heathrow before it took off. The Italian passengers were a bit stressed about making their connections but the flight attendant guys seemed to be charming them into not whinging too much. I amused myself by nodding and pretending I understood. Got my connection in Rome no problem and arrived in Amman at 230am as scheduled.
Sat there for a few hours waiting for daylight, no point hanging around in the city in the dark outside a closed bus station. The joy of a football phone-in podcast on my mp3 player kept me awake. I had to turn it up a bit when the call to prayer started at 415am. All the taxi and shop workers disappeared behind a curtain to pray for half an hour.
Got a posh (expensive) cab into town and he dropped me at exactly the right place. Amman looks nice with its white sandstone? buildings. I Walked straight into the bus stop shop and got a ticket for the 7am bus to Aqaba. So my plan went like clockwork. The excellent road to Aqaba basically goes through the desert. Very scenic but i was nodding in and out of sleep by this point. I am pretty sure we will go back that way so will get another chance. The taxi driver in Aqaba pointed out that Saudi Arabia is 20kms down the road, and on the other side of the Gulf of Aqaba, we could clearly see Israel and then Palestine.
The Bedouin Garden Hostel is very nice as are the Jordanian people. The hostel is opposite the beach, and also has its own swimming pool. Lots of Italians and French and Spanish here. Only a couple of English guys. Just stayed in the shade and read my book and took naps today. Of course it is ridiculously hot and even water from the fridge gets warm in minutes, yuk.
The guys should arrive in the truck at midnight tonight. Will be good to see them all again.
Sat there for a few hours waiting for daylight, no point hanging around in the city in the dark outside a closed bus station. The joy of a football phone-in podcast on my mp3 player kept me awake. I had to turn it up a bit when the call to prayer started at 415am. All the taxi and shop workers disappeared behind a curtain to pray for half an hour.
Got a posh (expensive) cab into town and he dropped me at exactly the right place. Amman looks nice with its white sandstone? buildings. I Walked straight into the bus stop shop and got a ticket for the 7am bus to Aqaba. So my plan went like clockwork. The excellent road to Aqaba basically goes through the desert. Very scenic but i was nodding in and out of sleep by this point. I am pretty sure we will go back that way so will get another chance. The taxi driver in Aqaba pointed out that Saudi Arabia is 20kms down the road, and on the other side of the Gulf of Aqaba, we could clearly see Israel and then Palestine.
The Bedouin Garden Hostel is very nice as are the Jordanian people. The hostel is opposite the beach, and also has its own swimming pool. Lots of Italians and French and Spanish here. Only a couple of English guys. Just stayed in the shade and read my book and took naps today. Of course it is ridiculously hot and even water from the fridge gets warm in minutes, yuk.
The guys should arrive in the truck at midnight tonight. Will be good to see them all again.
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