Syria continued

Wednesay 25 august


I wanted to have another look around the Old City and the Christian quarter of Damascus so i took a taxi in with the guys and went off by myself. Spent more time there than yesterday, wandering down all the quiet back alleys, having a nose in the courtyards, kids playing, old men chatting.

Met back up with Sarah and Phil. Struggled to find somewhere for lunch because there is not much point restaurants opening during Ramandan when people are fasting. But we eventually found a place. Not much local food to choose from, so I had Chicken Teriyaki with vegies and noodlez which was good but very salty.

We had a bit more of a wander around then internet then a taxi back to the campsite. Except we had a big row in the street with the taxi driver. Won't bore you with the details, maybe 20% our fault, 80% his. Thought he was going to punch me after we said he was ripping us off and he was going to just abandon us half way home. Another guy, a local salesman from Palestine, came over and mediated and gave us a lift home. He was really helpful and wouldn't accept any money from us

Some of the guys went to Beirut yesterday for a day trip. Sounds like a cool place, very modern, lots of money there, and some historic sights. But the day trip cost over $150 so i don't regret not going.

And last night some of them went to the official Gusiness Book of Records World's Largest Restaurant. I got take away pizza...

Thursday

We left Damasus and left Phil there cos he has to go to get regular injections at the hospital for his gammy hand.

After a long drive on the major highway through the desert, past signposts to Baghdad and Iraq, we arrived upon Palmiyra which is famous for its Roman ruins. Such ruins are not necessarily top of my list but these are pretty spectacular. First, you pay to get into the temple area which is reasonably intact. You can just wander around, there are no barriers or restrictions and we were the only ones there. Then we left the temple complex and crossed the road to the Monumental Arch and the Colonnade and the Civic Centre. Gav, Mac, Herman, Dan and I then headed for the Qala'at ibn Maan, also known as the Arab Castle or citadel which is at the top of the hill. Ignoring the blistering heat and steep climb we stormed up to the castle in 20 minutes and near passed out when we got there! The castle was originally built in the 12th century by the Crusaders. I can't imagine bringing the stones up that hill in the heat. Anyway, the view down onto the Roman ruins was spectacular, and well worth it. Only at the top did we realise that you can drive up from the other side. Surprisingly we were able to buy cold water up there and swigged it on the way down. All the historic places we have visited in the last couple of weeks just allow visitors to wander around freely without telling you where you can and cannot go. Its good. We bushcamped that night in the middle of the desert under a bright near-full moon; like having the bedroom light on.



Friday 27 August

Left the desert and headed out to Crac Des Chavaliers, where Phil was waiting for us. The castle was first a fortress in 1031 and so is in pretty good condition for such an old building and it has spectacular views of the valley below. But, really, i am not sure why it has such a great reputation; its just a big castle on a hill. It was kind of fun wandering around and finding secret passages, and there was a cool gothic area but not that memorable. But lunch was. We had garlic chicken and chips with garlic hummus and mezza, other dips with cucumber, tomato, carrots, and pitta bread, all at a good price. Back on the truck to Allepo.

Staying at the Hotel Syria in Aleppo. We have a fridge and TV and a fan, and AC that doesnt work. This is luxury. Early evening, Sarah and I went for a walk. Asked for directions to the Souq Bab Antakya (market) and easily found our way there. Because it was Friday, holy day for muslims, the market was pretty well shut, which was a bonus. The souq, like the one in Damascus is kind of in a tunnel and because it was shut we could walk through quietly and look at the carved wooden shop doors and the ceiling and the architecture. It was a bit gothic and a bit medieval and atmospheric. At the other end of the souq we came out to the edge of the citadel which is on a manmade mound which was originally built around 300BC. It basically looks like a castle. As it was twilight, the white stone had turned a bit pink. We will have a proper look round tomorrow. We heaed back and picked up meat and vegie pitta from a very local restaurant; the guys there were welcoming and the food was great.


Saturday 28 August

Walked through the souk early morning; pretty quiet. Into the citadel across the moat. Had a wander around but over castle-type things now. Bit more wandering in the souk then back to hotel for lunch. Went for a walk by myself in the arvo to the Christian quarter, a bit more upmarket, designer shops, alleyways, catholic church, Museum of Popular Tradition. Museum a bit dull but they had some old weapons and machines and radios. A narrow dark alley where no one would find you. Dinner near the citadel with Sarah. Then sheesha bar with Gav, Dan and Greg. A little spun out, definitely not to be mixed with alcohol, but good to be on the local guys favourite hangout.