24.12.09

Bandiagara, Mali

So for Christmas we are here in Bandiagara, Mali. We are staying at a campsite and there is another tour group here so people to hang out with. For christmas we have a huge pig on a spit. I just had spag bol, the others had chicken and chips, the chicken having just arrived still live, carried in upside down by a local lady




On boxing day we are going walking in the Dogon country for 3 or 4 days. A long hike so hopefully not too hungover.



Before this we were in Djenne where there was another crazy market, and the biggest mud mosque in the world. We had lots of fun with the local kids, wanting their picture taken and then looking at it. They showed us some dancing and we joined in a bit. And we played soccer. And we taught them the YMCA dance. Then we went on a two day river cruise which was fun, a bit cramped but we had a swim and enjoyed the scenery.

17.12.09

Bamako, Mali

going to write this in a hurry cos i have to get back to the hostel for lunch and my malaria tablet and then to the museum. Mali is great and the people are really friendly. we got the feeling we werent really wanted in Mauritania, especially when we tried to stop at the border to get exit stamps and do the right thing officially, they just told us to keep going!  but when we got to the mali side, mali said our passports had to go back to Mauratnia to get the exit stamp, so Gav took them back the next morning!  the police escort had taken us about 1000kms through Mauritania in 2 days so lots of time on the truck and no sightseeing.

Bamako is pretty crazy. this is our first proper african city. a few of us went food shopping at the local market. loads of people, dust, motorbikes. the women are lovely. good skin, colorful dresses and matching headscarves and usually a big smile. and balancing all kinds of things on their heads.

we went to a soccer match yesterday. there was a group of drummers which created a great atmosphere. it got a bit tense when the opposing team scored and lots of the guys were shouting at eachother. i put my shoes back on in case we had to run for it. but then the home team equalised and it calmed down a bit.

last night we went to a Mali nightclub, definitely for locals, not a tourist spot. lots of musicians and a rather large lady belting out the tunes, it was great. i had a bit of dance. a few drinks and a bit seedy this morning.

thats all, stuff to do,

11.12.09

Nouakachott, Mauritania.

So, here we are in very hot and sunny Nouakachott, the capital city of Mauritania. After 3 days travelling through the Western Sahara from Morocco. It took 3 hours for them to let us cross out of Morocco. We crossed no mans land which is basically a very rough path across the sand, very bouncy in the truck. It was almost dark when we got to the Mauritania side so they let us set up camp next to the passport control building, which was fine. They let us through straight away in the morning. They gave us an armed escort (5 guys with big guns in a pickup truck) for the 500kms to here, probably because some spanish NGO workers got kidnapped by Al Qaeda recently.

The bush camping sites again were great, the middle of nowhere, nice scenery and sunsets. One night we found a small area on top of a hill and camped on the red sand among the cacti. Another night we camped at the beach. The hostel here is great, clean facilites, friendly staff and we are sleeping on the roof again, under mozzie nets.

We bought 3kgs of goat from some remote outpost in the desert, i think the goat had probably been walking around outside a few hours earlier. We watched the guy chop it up a bit for us. I kind of offered to cut it up for the pot but it smelt a bit funny after it had been on the truck for 36 hours. I am not squeamish but the smell and the texture grossed me out. Anyway we cooked it and it was ok, nobody got sick. It did taste ok but i was over it by then.

There have been one or two arguments among the team although not involving me or the cool kids who sit at the front of the truck. Whats the point in having a huge row when we are supposed to be on having fun. But i guess we will all have our moments. I have a good view from the front of the truck, can see out the front back and sides.....talking of which, many of us have shaved our heads, grade 0, partly for fun and because sometimes we dont shower for 4 days!

Found out the world cup draw. Looks like England have a favourable draw. Good to have some different teams to play from normal. Seems we might get Australia in the next round?

There are no taboos now regarding toilet habits and experiences. So far has not been so bad, maybe worse for the girls. There are mostly squat toilets but sometimes too smelly, blocked or broken for human use. But we all share our experiences and bodily functions, burping and farting is pretty well accepted and ignored.

At night there are dogs barking in the distance but very loudly, and every morning there is the 'call to prayer'
from the mosques, at 430am and even with ear plugs in it wakes us up, and goes until about 5am, kind of funny but annoying.

We leave here tomorrow and take a few days to get to the Mali border. Our visas dont start until 23rd december but the Mali embassy here assured us we can cross earlier....wheel C.

3.12.09

Essaouira, Morocco

So today we are in the seaside town of Essaouira. I am sure they could have got more vowels into the name if they tried. It was great coming around the corner and seeing the atlantic ocean on our way down from the Atlas mountains. Had a good walk around the touristy bit and bought a manbag, and a good look around the medina, the old bit where the locals go shopping. We leave tomorrow to follow the coast down towards the western sahara and Maurintina. we will probably be bushcamping heaps then. hopefully stopping in lots of remote places. i think thats when the adventure really begins. we have been mainly staying on campsites and have plenty of good food and facilities. this will be become less so over the next few weeks. we will be in the desert until around Christmas I think and booze is illegal in Mauritina....
















I have to say listening to those who are doing the full trip up to Turkey, I wish I was too. the only thing stopping me is that I want to be in England for the world cup. see how I feel closer to the time.













it was our turn to cook again last night, I couldn’t actually remember what day it was, which is one of the joys of travelling, but I knew it was our cooking day so was able to deduce that it was Wednesday. anyway, we made fajitas and the gang seemed to enjoy. yes, you have to cook for 24 people once a week but the other days you just sit round the campfire while some else does it so no complaints there. In the evenings it gets dark at 530 and a bit chilly and theres not much to do except sit round the fire so must people go to bed around 9pm.





















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"African Trails: Ultimate Trans November 2009's Notes"









We had four nights in Marrakech on a campsite with peacocks as well as cats and dogs which are at every site.. it was cool though not as great as I expected. at dusk when the food stalls are busy and the markets are full there is a great atmosphere. during the day there are some smart buildings to see and the mosque is nice. but we didnt really need 3 days. too much walking for my toe and not enough reward. I nearly bought a manbag but by the time we had agreed a price the stocky guy had blocked my exit from his shop and had a strong hold on my wrist. I told him I might come back and got past him. he said I was crazy! if he had been nice I would have bought the bag. got lots of guys trying to hassle me using my Ajax hat as a conversation starter so took it off and wore it inside out.









Weetbix for breakfast every day.The trip only has bad cornflakes so I have splashed out on five boxes of weetbix and put my name on them. It is good having my own tent. can spread out and come and go as I please. I actually gave it a bit of a clean yesterday and it was like a new tent! happy with my sleeping bag and sheet and self inflating mat. comfortable and warm now.















my toe seems to be ok. have had it mostly covered up but when I had a look it looked ok, maybe its gonna reconnect itself. I would really like to go for a run but that’s off.







thats all. off to the desert.