Eastern Turkey

(sorry ıts a bıt long....)

Saturday 18th September

The guys got home last night, with stories of a brawl with a local guy and a broken nose. Breakfast togther and wandering and changing money. Sat near the mosques, loads of armed police around; we think this was because some American Greeks had said they wanted to have a service in one of the mosques, but technically it is a museum now so services are not allowed. Of course this might not explain the firepower, but thats what we understood from the locals. Anyway, nothing happened. After lunch, Andrew and I said goodbye for the last time to Spots, Sarah, Paige, Jess and Dan. We got the tram  and then Light Rail (we would call it the subway) to the Otogar (main bus station, probably the biggest I have ever seen!) and departed on the overnight bus for Trabzon, which is on the Black Sea COast. The bus was smart, TV, aircon, comfy seats and wi-fi!  A stop every four hours, i slept ok.

Sunday 19th September

In the morning the bus passed along the scenic Black Sea and some mountains. We had heard that the bus would take 22 hours, but it only took 18, so we arrived here at lunchtime. It is quite a nice small city, population 400k, cheaper than Istanbul, population 12million. We got our bus tickets for tomorrow nights departure, and organised to go to the monastery tomorrow. Of course, getting overnight buses saves on accomodation so pleased with that. After a bit of wandering, found a good 3 star hotel, Hotel Can, good value. And only 1 other tourist which makes a change from Istanbul.  Its a little cooler on this side of Turkey, but still a quite warm and a bit cloudy. After another kebab, averaging 2 a day, watched the 2nd half of United and Liverpool in the pub. A bit over kebabs so a whopper for dinner...

Monday 20th September
Today's mission was to check out Sumela Monastery, 45kms out of Trabzon. Had free breakfast at the Hotel, bread, butter, jam, cucumber, tomato, no fetta? and coffee.  Left our bags in the communal area and went to the bus ticket office. Waited for about an hour then on the minibus to Sumela. Off the main road, its uphill through evegreen forests past a rushing stream, a bit like a mini version of the rocky mountains. Then you catch sight of the monastery up above, clinging to the sheer the cliff. It was originally built in Byzantine times. The minibus dropped us off and its a short walk to the entrance.
Through the entrance, you look down onto the chapel, which has frescoes inside and out. Some frescoes are from the 9th century but most from the 19th century. There is also quite alot damage where people have inscribed their names, including Russian and Turkish tourists and American airmen from the 1960s. The fresoes were good but it didnt take long to walk around.
We took our time to walk back down the road to meet the minibus. The views of the monastery from below were better than being inside the monastery. Anyway, halfway down i realised that i didnt have my money belt on. Clearly this is not a good situation, especially when it contains 2 passports, 2 credit cards and about $1000 in various currencies. I was a bit freaked out but then remembered that it had been on our hotel room floor earlier so was pretty sure it would still be there, or the cleaner would have found it, and they seemed trustworthy at the hotel.

Had to wait another hour until the bus took us back and then a bit anxious about my stuff on the journey back. And when i got to the hotel, they didnt have it. The owner didnt speak much English but he let us check the room and he asked the cleaner who said she had not seen it when she cleaned the room. A couple of German/Turkish guys helped translate for me, and we even checked the rubbish in the cellar. Now i was freaking out a bit, they suggested that it had been taken from round my waist, but i normally stick it in down my shorts. Anyway, I got Andrew to go to the bus station since that was the only other place we had been, though i was still convinced I had left it in the hotel. But Andrew came back saying that the bus company said they had it...but it wasnt there right now. Basically we had to wait an hour or so, then lo and behold an older guy and two young girls walked in with it! They didnt speak English so we had no idea how they had got hold of it or anything, but there was nothing missing, all the cash and everything was still there. I am a very lucky boy! It had been a stressful afternoon and i felt bad for letting it happen and still dont know how or where i lost it. I dont see how it could have fallen off without me noticing..

We headed straight for the otogar, main bus station. The bus left a bit late, but nevermind. They served us fizzy orange again and played loud movies. I was happy reading my Japanese novel and thanking my lucky stars. God bless the people of Trabzon!
Tuesday 21 September.
After some very strange dreams and a restless night on the bus, woke up proper around 6am, just as the sun was coming up. As we left Igdir, snow-capped Mount Ararat (5137m) came into view, the sun coming around it. We also passed some rugged landscape and some small rural villages with people tending their cows and sheep. It was just as I imagined this part of Turkey and I was pleased that I have taken the trouble to come over to this side of Turkey.

We arrived at Dogubayazit at 7am. It is a small town and easy to find Hotel Erzurum, especially when friendly locals gave us directions. After a nap we headed out for breakfast. Only the bakery seemed open. Then a guy said in broken English "Everything else is closed today for Kurdish demonstration. If shop opens..." and he swiped his finger across his throat. Ok, bread it is then. He was right, everything else was closed, apart from a guy sellling Kofte and salad in bread in the bus station car park. That was perfect anyway.

We then got a minibus 6kms up the hill to the ruins of Ishak Pasa Palace which was first built in 1685 and is dramatically set on the hill. It has Seljuk, Ottoman, Georgian, Persian and Armenian architecture but wasnt that exciting inside. As with the monastery yesterday, the outside and setting make the Palace worth a visit. We walked back down the hill, rugged landscapes and views of Mount Ararat and a few shops were open on the edge of town, but the centre is still closed.
p.s. cancelled flıght to Uzbekıstan. cant be bothered wıth the vısa hassles....