Tuesday 3rd May
Slept in then checked out of Yangshuo hostel. Horrible loud cheesy dance music for an hour on the bus, locals seem oblivious to it. Arrived at Guilin. Dropped my big bag off at train station and went for a walk around the city, in the rain. The bank were suspicious when I went to change money, cos I have much longer hair on my passport photo. Then they tried to give me one large note, but we got there in the end. The town is ok, a few nature spots and the river, buit alot of it you have to pay to get to so gave it a miss. Had late lunch, spicy chinese veggie food with Latvian/Luxembourg couple from Poland.
On the night train, I had only been able to get a hard seat, not a sleeper bed. But not too bad, a small table between the facing seats, so like the locals, slept mostly with my head on the table.
Arrived at train station at Shenzhen, which is a special zone between China and Hong Kong. Got off the train with Safa girl and you go underground and check out of China. You continue underground for a bit further, following the signposts to Hong Kong and then checki in to Hong Kong, just like at an airport.
On to the clean MTR, metro, pretty easy to find Chung King Mansion which is a huge building on Nathan Road in the south of Kowloon. A few annoying characters hassling you to take a room or buy a dodgy watch, or hash, but ok; they are mostly from overseas.
The owners of the Ashoka hotel are from northern India, which I like, we had a bit of chat about the Golden Temple. He even carried my bag upstairs from the 13th to the 16th floor. The hostel is very clean and good value.
Got the metro across to Hong Kong Island and the Indonesian embassy. The security guard ushered me past about 60 waiting Indonesian ladies, to the front of the queue; well, what can you do? Anyway, the staff said I can't get a 2 month visa there, only one month, so will leave it for now.
Hong Kong Island is clean and easy to get around. Walked past some English pubs and Thai 'massage' shops.
Wednesday 4th May
sleept in. Pretty grey outside. Did a reckie to parents hotel for tomorrow. Walked north for an hour up Kowloon to second hand bookshop I found on Google, on the off chance of finding Millenium III, and also as to keep myself away from the tourist spots, saving them for when Mum and Dad arrive. Lo and behold I found a second hand copy of the book buried in a box on the floror. On the way back, passed local fish and veggie market. Watched the guy kill 8 fish by putting them in a pastic bags and smacking the bbag until it stopped moving. Ate red bean curd dumpling (bun?). Walked through Kowloon park.
Back at the hostel, the room and bathroom had been cleaned and we had clean towels and soap waiting. Very nice.
Thursday 5th May
The lifts have video cameras and you can watch them on the TV outside the lift on the ground floor, and there are friendly security guards around, which is good. There are Indian restaurants and shops on the ground floor so went down for samosa and chail, and away from the intense noisy drilling coming from behind our bedroom wall. Still, it was after 9am.
I walked across to the famous Hong Kong harbour and it was impressive. A bit hard no to compare it with Sydney and of course it doesn't match up, but it was still good and a pleasant walking alongside the water, eating ice cream and reading my book. There is also the Avenue of Stars where they have hand impressions in the concrete of famous Chinese/Hong Kong filmstars, and a photo exhibition by a French guy.
Walked all around the harbour, then came to a nice non-touristy plaza with a fountain. Good lunch and coffee. Eventually the sun came out.
Chatted with Californian and German roommate. Good to sharing with friendly, normal people. A comfortable stay so far, for less than $15 a night.
Friday 6th May
Same breakfast. Hong Kong is very cosmopolitan. Yesterday, at a restaurant, I was served by a Turkish man and Nepalese woman. The shops on the groundfloor here advertise phonecall charges to Tanzania, South Africa and Nigeria, aimed at the African guys, some of whom are dressed in their traditional long shirts, and always smartly dressed, clearly here on business. I like that. There is alot of business going on in this buidling, white collar and blue collar workers using the lifts; I helped a guy get some large folded cardboard boxes and huge rolls of bubblewrap in and out of the lift.
Met Mum and Dad at their hotel in the evening, great to see them. We went to a local restaurant, just down the road.
Saturday 7th May
Walked up to Parent's hotel and we walked down Nathan Street and to the harbour. Coffee and muffins at Starbucks! We got the Star Ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island (10 minutes) and then from Exchange Sq. on the bus to The Peak, Victoria Peak. It took us all the way up and the views on the way were great. At The Peak you look across the bay at the skyscrapers of HK Island and Kowloon, a spectacular view.
We got the famous tram down from the peak, its an old style tram and the journey is very steep. We stood up so we could enjoy the views once more. We got an open-top bus back to Central, skyscrapers rising above us on all sides.
After a rest we went out for dinner. The Chinese restaurants here are much more like in the west than in China, in terms of the actual food, the service and communciation with the staff. A much better experience for me than in the previous couple of weeks. But I still stay away from the street food. After dinner we walked around the nightmarkets; no pressure from the friendly traders.
Sunday 8th May
Late start then we walked to the History museum. I normally avoid museums but the Californian guy convinced me to give it a go, and he was right. There a few levels, from natural history, early Hong Kong life, Chinese folk culture, the Opium Wars, the ceding of HK to the UK, the Japanese invasion. I rushed around a bit so will hopefully go back on Wednesday, when it is free.
We had lunch and then went to pleasant Kowloon Park where there was a martial art show; Kung Fu and sword display, not so exciting. There were some young ladies dancing, and a few bird displays. Why did they have 50 flamingos in a small enclosure, and a huge Rhinoceros hornbill flapping around when they should be in their natural habitats?
For dinner we had a great buffet and Mum and Dad's hotel. Seafood, salad, sushi, roast beef, strawberries, chocolate fountain; not your average backapcker meal! Thanks Mum and Dad.
Watched Man U v Chelsea in the pub across the road. Chatted with friendly oldham fan.
Monday 9th May
Late start. We got the Star Ferry again across to Hong Kong Island. Then straight onto another ferry to Mui Wo, on Lantau Island (an hour). Got the bus, great scenery of woodland, outlying islands, beaches and the the sea. Arrived at Giant Buddha site, with many other tourists. The bronze buddha was put up by the monks from the nearby Po Lin monastery in 1996. I couldn't help thinking that it was mostly a money-raiser for the monastery; there is also a touristy 'village' nearby. Anyway, we walked up the steps to the Buddha and walked around and enjoyed the scenery.
We walked across to the traditonal Chinese Buddhist monastery. The monks were chanting, but it was very loud, through loud-speakers and not very calming or spiritual and not somewhere we wanted to hang around and have lunch. So we went to the 'Village' and had subway instead!
Then we got the cable car, which was spectacular. It first passes over the forests with views of the bay, then alongside the airport, the planes taking off below us, to the side. Then is a steep descent down towards and over the water. The cable car then takes a 90 degree turn and follows the road bridge to Tung Chung metro station. We got the train station back to Kowloon and walked via some busy backstreets.
We had dinner at the locals restaurant again and then said goodbye to Mum and Dad. Always a little sad of course, but we certainly had a good time, as we always have when meeting in foreign parts.
Tuesday 10th May
Public holiday for Buddha's birthday. I had a long lie-in to help him celebrate. After Indian breakfast I headed out for a whistle-stop tour of the tourist sites of Hong Kong Island. Got the metro to HK Island, then on the bus to Stanley Market. Well, it is a tourist market selling the same old stuff as elsewhere, but it is in a lovely waterfront area with nice resturants and a short coastal walk, Ma Hang Park, among some trees and a small Tao temple. And the pier. Read my book and ate bombay mix-type thing. Bought a new pair of (red) swimmers. Almost bought the orange ones but realised that would clash with my orange t-shirt!
Walked along to find Stanley Fort, but the road had no footpath and the path which I thought might take me there came to a sudden stop, with a security guard (not sure what he was guarding), making it clear that I could not proceed. He didn't speak English so i mimed shooting a rifle and firing a bow and arrow, which, not suprisingly made him shake his head even more. So i gave up, walked back to Stanley and got the bus to Aberdeen.
The main attraction in Aberdeen are the floating restaurants. There is a free boat out to the restaurants but I didn't want to eat there, just to have a look. But you could only just see them from the jetty so I got on the next bus back to Central. I got a bit lost then walked up the 'mid-levels' travelator. Up, and up, and up. It passes through Soho, where there are many trendy boutique bars with tourists and the beautiful people. I went back down to the harbour and got Subway and a coke.
I crossed on the Star Ferry back to Kowloon and as I arrived the nightly Symphony of Lights show started. Most of the skyscrpaers on the Hong Kong side of the harbour light up and flash and create a fairly spectacular show, it was a good end to the day. Sat and read my book and looked at the lights as the crowds dispersed.
I have to say that Hong Kong has grown on me during my week here. Before I came, and when I first arrived, I thought it was just skyscrapers. But on my trips around, with Mum and Dad, and today, I have seen that the natural landscape here is beautiful here too, and reminds me of the coasal areas around Sydney. And things work, public transport is cheap and easy as is eating out.
Wednesday 11 May
Too lazy to go to the museum. After late breakfast I walked across to the outdoor swimming pool, which is in the middle of Kowloon Park, in the middle of Kowloon, under the skyscrapers. There are three outdoor pools and I set myself up in the shade. Many of the local guys like to wear budgie smugglers and wander round in naked in the changing rooms. Anyway, I sat by the pool for 3.5 hours reading Millenium, and getting in for a cooling-off swim after every few chapters. The pool wasn't too busy and it was a very pleasant way to spend a Wednesday afternoon.
Came back to the hostel and have repacked my stuff, ready to fly to Manilla tomorrow.
Slept in then checked out of Yangshuo hostel. Horrible loud cheesy dance music for an hour on the bus, locals seem oblivious to it. Arrived at Guilin. Dropped my big bag off at train station and went for a walk around the city, in the rain. The bank were suspicious when I went to change money, cos I have much longer hair on my passport photo. Then they tried to give me one large note, but we got there in the end. The town is ok, a few nature spots and the river, buit alot of it you have to pay to get to so gave it a miss. Had late lunch, spicy chinese veggie food with Latvian/Luxembourg couple from Poland.
On the night train, I had only been able to get a hard seat, not a sleeper bed. But not too bad, a small table between the facing seats, so like the locals, slept mostly with my head on the table.
Arrived at train station at Shenzhen, which is a special zone between China and Hong Kong. Got off the train with Safa girl and you go underground and check out of China. You continue underground for a bit further, following the signposts to Hong Kong and then checki in to Hong Kong, just like at an airport.
On to the clean MTR, metro, pretty easy to find Chung King Mansion which is a huge building on Nathan Road in the south of Kowloon. A few annoying characters hassling you to take a room or buy a dodgy watch, or hash, but ok; they are mostly from overseas.
The owners of the Ashoka hotel are from northern India, which I like, we had a bit of chat about the Golden Temple. He even carried my bag upstairs from the 13th to the 16th floor. The hostel is very clean and good value.
Got the metro across to Hong Kong Island and the Indonesian embassy. The security guard ushered me past about 60 waiting Indonesian ladies, to the front of the queue; well, what can you do? Anyway, the staff said I can't get a 2 month visa there, only one month, so will leave it for now.
Hong Kong Island is clean and easy to get around. Walked past some English pubs and Thai 'massage' shops.
Wednesday 4th May
sleept in. Pretty grey outside. Did a reckie to parents hotel for tomorrow. Walked north for an hour up Kowloon to second hand bookshop I found on Google, on the off chance of finding Millenium III, and also as to keep myself away from the tourist spots, saving them for when Mum and Dad arrive. Lo and behold I found a second hand copy of the book buried in a box on the floror. On the way back, passed local fish and veggie market. Watched the guy kill 8 fish by putting them in a pastic bags and smacking the bbag until it stopped moving. Ate red bean curd dumpling (bun?). Walked through Kowloon park.
Back at the hostel, the room and bathroom had been cleaned and we had clean towels and soap waiting. Very nice.
Thursday 5th May
The lifts have video cameras and you can watch them on the TV outside the lift on the ground floor, and there are friendly security guards around, which is good. There are Indian restaurants and shops on the ground floor so went down for samosa and chail, and away from the intense noisy drilling coming from behind our bedroom wall. Still, it was after 9am.
I walked across to the famous Hong Kong harbour and it was impressive. A bit hard no to compare it with Sydney and of course it doesn't match up, but it was still good and a pleasant walking alongside the water, eating ice cream and reading my book. There is also the Avenue of Stars where they have hand impressions in the concrete of famous Chinese/Hong Kong filmstars, and a photo exhibition by a French guy.
Walked all around the harbour, then came to a nice non-touristy plaza with a fountain. Good lunch and coffee. Eventually the sun came out.
Chatted with Californian and German roommate. Good to sharing with friendly, normal people. A comfortable stay so far, for less than $15 a night.
Friday 6th May
Same breakfast. Hong Kong is very cosmopolitan. Yesterday, at a restaurant, I was served by a Turkish man and Nepalese woman. The shops on the groundfloor here advertise phonecall charges to Tanzania, South Africa and Nigeria, aimed at the African guys, some of whom are dressed in their traditional long shirts, and always smartly dressed, clearly here on business. I like that. There is alot of business going on in this buidling, white collar and blue collar workers using the lifts; I helped a guy get some large folded cardboard boxes and huge rolls of bubblewrap in and out of the lift.
Met Mum and Dad at their hotel in the evening, great to see them. We went to a local restaurant, just down the road.
Saturday 7th May
Walked up to Parent's hotel and we walked down Nathan Street and to the harbour. Coffee and muffins at Starbucks! We got the Star Ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island (10 minutes) and then from Exchange Sq. on the bus to The Peak, Victoria Peak. It took us all the way up and the views on the way were great. At The Peak you look across the bay at the skyscrapers of HK Island and Kowloon, a spectacular view.
We got the famous tram down from the peak, its an old style tram and the journey is very steep. We stood up so we could enjoy the views once more. We got an open-top bus back to Central, skyscrapers rising above us on all sides.
After a rest we went out for dinner. The Chinese restaurants here are much more like in the west than in China, in terms of the actual food, the service and communciation with the staff. A much better experience for me than in the previous couple of weeks. But I still stay away from the street food. After dinner we walked around the nightmarkets; no pressure from the friendly traders.
Sunday 8th May
Late start then we walked to the History museum. I normally avoid museums but the Californian guy convinced me to give it a go, and he was right. There a few levels, from natural history, early Hong Kong life, Chinese folk culture, the Opium Wars, the ceding of HK to the UK, the Japanese invasion. I rushed around a bit so will hopefully go back on Wednesday, when it is free.
We had lunch and then went to pleasant Kowloon Park where there was a martial art show; Kung Fu and sword display, not so exciting. There were some young ladies dancing, and a few bird displays. Why did they have 50 flamingos in a small enclosure, and a huge Rhinoceros hornbill flapping around when they should be in their natural habitats?
For dinner we had a great buffet and Mum and Dad's hotel. Seafood, salad, sushi, roast beef, strawberries, chocolate fountain; not your average backapcker meal! Thanks Mum and Dad.
Watched Man U v Chelsea in the pub across the road. Chatted with friendly oldham fan.
Monday 9th May
Late start. We got the Star Ferry again across to Hong Kong Island. Then straight onto another ferry to Mui Wo, on Lantau Island (an hour). Got the bus, great scenery of woodland, outlying islands, beaches and the the sea. Arrived at Giant Buddha site, with many other tourists. The bronze buddha was put up by the monks from the nearby Po Lin monastery in 1996. I couldn't help thinking that it was mostly a money-raiser for the monastery; there is also a touristy 'village' nearby. Anyway, we walked up the steps to the Buddha and walked around and enjoyed the scenery.
We walked across to the traditonal Chinese Buddhist monastery. The monks were chanting, but it was very loud, through loud-speakers and not very calming or spiritual and not somewhere we wanted to hang around and have lunch. So we went to the 'Village' and had subway instead!
Then we got the cable car, which was spectacular. It first passes over the forests with views of the bay, then alongside the airport, the planes taking off below us, to the side. Then is a steep descent down towards and over the water. The cable car then takes a 90 degree turn and follows the road bridge to Tung Chung metro station. We got the train station back to Kowloon and walked via some busy backstreets.
We had dinner at the locals restaurant again and then said goodbye to Mum and Dad. Always a little sad of course, but we certainly had a good time, as we always have when meeting in foreign parts.
Tuesday 10th May
Public holiday for Buddha's birthday. I had a long lie-in to help him celebrate. After Indian breakfast I headed out for a whistle-stop tour of the tourist sites of Hong Kong Island. Got the metro to HK Island, then on the bus to Stanley Market. Well, it is a tourist market selling the same old stuff as elsewhere, but it is in a lovely waterfront area with nice resturants and a short coastal walk, Ma Hang Park, among some trees and a small Tao temple. And the pier. Read my book and ate bombay mix-type thing. Bought a new pair of (red) swimmers. Almost bought the orange ones but realised that would clash with my orange t-shirt!
Walked along to find Stanley Fort, but the road had no footpath and the path which I thought might take me there came to a sudden stop, with a security guard (not sure what he was guarding), making it clear that I could not proceed. He didn't speak English so i mimed shooting a rifle and firing a bow and arrow, which, not suprisingly made him shake his head even more. So i gave up, walked back to Stanley and got the bus to Aberdeen.
The main attraction in Aberdeen are the floating restaurants. There is a free boat out to the restaurants but I didn't want to eat there, just to have a look. But you could only just see them from the jetty so I got on the next bus back to Central. I got a bit lost then walked up the 'mid-levels' travelator. Up, and up, and up. It passes through Soho, where there are many trendy boutique bars with tourists and the beautiful people. I went back down to the harbour and got Subway and a coke.
I crossed on the Star Ferry back to Kowloon and as I arrived the nightly Symphony of Lights show started. Most of the skyscrpaers on the Hong Kong side of the harbour light up and flash and create a fairly spectacular show, it was a good end to the day. Sat and read my book and looked at the lights as the crowds dispersed.
I have to say that Hong Kong has grown on me during my week here. Before I came, and when I first arrived, I thought it was just skyscrapers. But on my trips around, with Mum and Dad, and today, I have seen that the natural landscape here is beautiful here too, and reminds me of the coasal areas around Sydney. And things work, public transport is cheap and easy as is eating out.
Wednesday 11 May
Too lazy to go to the museum. After late breakfast I walked across to the outdoor swimming pool, which is in the middle of Kowloon Park, in the middle of Kowloon, under the skyscrapers. There are three outdoor pools and I set myself up in the shade. Many of the local guys like to wear budgie smugglers and wander round in naked in the changing rooms. Anyway, I sat by the pool for 3.5 hours reading Millenium, and getting in for a cooling-off swim after every few chapters. The pool wasn't too busy and it was a very pleasant way to spend a Wednesday afternoon.
Came back to the hostel and have repacked my stuff, ready to fly to Manilla tomorrow.
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