Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Angola

Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC)

The next day, we got to the Angola/ DRC border at 745am. Another remote border with only a couple of soldiers there at that time so we had to wait until 10am for the immigration people to arrive. After an hour or so we crossed into DRC. Again we expected to see armed guards on the DRC side, since it is a war-stricken country. But again it was just a group of guys in tracksuits and bling. They were friendly but had no idea how to process us....they probably havent had white people through in a very long time, but eventually they sent us on our way.

Again it was a bumpy muddy road in the countryside into the unknown. Driving through the first major town was a bit intimidating, a few strange looks. But this could be because they think we are American, and, basically, the Americans and other western countries supported their dictator for 30 years until a civil war ousted him. 3.4 million people died over two wars in the 90's. But when we did stop near a small village the locals were friendly and we bought the two remaining beers in the whole village, so we drank the place dry!

We were in the safer part of the country, there is still military activity further inland. The scenery in DRC was also stunning. I guess i assumed that war-ravaged countries like DRC and Angola might not look so good but the natural beauty in both countries was amazing, as good as i have ever seen. I really want people to know that these places are not just dumps filled with dodgy people. The landscape is world class and most people were really friendly, especially considering most of them can remember the recent horrible civil wars in which they would have lost friends and family.

Along the way we saw lots of ladies carrying very heavy loads from the forest back into their village while the guys seemed to be just hanging around watching. I have wanted to take more pictures of people but its rude really unless you ask permission which you cant really do from the truck. Anyway we got to Matadi and and the Congo river. We crossed a huge sparkling suspension bridge which the Japanese helped to build. After crossing the bridge soon arrived at the DRC/Angola border. A bit frustrasting taking ages to be processed at the border but thats Africa.


Angola

As we made our way into Angola the view of the river and surrounding countryside was amazing (i am running out of adjectives. Its just that the landscapes changed and got better every day.) We broke down and also got a flat tyre so i got Chilean Carolina to shave me head while we waited. We camped early at a small village cos there was a storm coming. We were surrounded by a hundred fascinated villagers as we set up camp and cooked dinner. They probably havent seen white people for a while, certainly the kids might not have. I was able to speak a bit of Spanish to them and they understood because it is similar to Portuguese which is their language. Again, although it is remote, they do have soccer shirts. In the morning we were teaching the kids the words and the moves to "YMCA" and other songs, and because Kiwi Phil was leading them they were singing in a Kiwi accent. It was lots of fun.

The roads in that northern part of Angola were horrendous, we made very slow progress. The roads were broken, lots of potholes and big branches overhanging the road. The branches would smack into the top of the truck, where we were stood up, even when we moved slowly. Sometimes we tried to lift the branches over the truck, other times it was better to duck. Lots of bugs would fall out of the branches into the truck including ants, spiders, grasshoppers and lots of things we didnt even recognise. The truck floor was a jungle! On the 17th of April we were in another small village for the night. It was Paddy's day, Charlotte's (my neice) birthday and Aussie Greg's birthday so we sang Happy Birthday a few times in front of the kids and they picked it up pretty well then showed us their own singing and dancing. After they had gone to bed i put the Pogues on and we drank whiskey.

Next day the roads got better but then we drove into a big muddy hole. We tried digging ourselves out. I was under the front wheel on my back sweating like crazy removing the mud from near the chassis. But it was pointless cos the back wheel was in four feet of mud and the guys couldnt shift it. So a few guys went back to the previous village and came back in a big truck with some local guys, which tried to pull us out but couldn't, neither could the next truck so they gave up. They promised they would come the next morning at 830 but we didnt hold our breath. We started talking about what we would do if we couldnt get out. It was a 50kms walk to the next proper village. What would happen to the trip if we had to leave the truck?

Anyway, after camping at the roadside we started digging again in the morning and made a bit of progress. Then, at 1045 a Caterpillar bulldozer turned up. It pulled us straight out of the mud. Meanwhile, the Chileans, Herman and Carolina, had got a bush taxi to the next town to find a hospital because Herman was really sick and suspected Malaria. After being rescued we picked them up in the next town and it was confirmed that Herman had malaria. It was horrible for him. Lots aches and pains and pressure in his head. They gave him some drugs which made him feel worse, but i think they have pretty much sorted him out now. Of course seeing the effects made us all more vigilant agasinst the mozzies.

Along the way we started to collect river water in case we got stranded again. We lost half a day when a suspension spring broke and it took driver Gav and Scotish engineer Mac, 7 hours to fix it. It was a huge dirty job, especially in the searing heat. I spent the time dodging wasps. Eventually the road got better and came to the ocean, and turned left towards Luanda, the capital. More great scenery and small villages and mud huts, those people really didnt seem to have anything. By the way, all the time we were stuck we were using up our visa time. When we had got our visas, a month before, they had only granted us a 5 day transit visa. Well, because of the terrible roads, (we were often going at 5 miles an hour for hours), breakdowns and the day stuck in the mud, we had soon gone past the visa expiry date. And the fine is $120 per day. But we figured we could bribe our way out of it..... Meanwhile, English Gav got a huge hole in his finger from dropping a truck part on it, and english Mike thought he had malaria so they went off to hospital. We met them the next day and Mikes malaria was confirmed. Again it was horrible seeing our new friends in so much pain. Again the drugs make it worse before they make it better.

As we bypassed Luanda the roads were magnificent as was the scenery. A bit like NZ, or Lord of the Rings. Stupid police checks where they come on board, start looking at our passports then get bored, dont notice that our visas have expired and then ask the girls for their phone numbers. This happened twice.

The road took us into the mountasins so we had to get our cold weather gear out again. But good to be able to sleep in the comfort of a sleeping bag rather then sweating under a sleep sac. To make up for lost time we would stop for early dinner and then drive on into the night. This was very cool, standing up the front of the truck. We were going through these savannahs in the middle of nowhere at night across wetlands and old bridges, with lightning (no rain) going off all around us lighting up the sky. Very atmospheric.


So we kept heading to the border, trying to hurry but having to go slowly on the crappy roads so as to not damage the truck. I have to say driver Gav is a great driver through all sorts of conditions and he never complains, just smiles and keeps going.

On wednesday we were still on terrible roads in the morning and wondering when we would ever make it to the Namibian border....then, suddenly it changed into a world class road for the last 140kms to the border so everyones spirits were lifted. Of course at the Angolan exit border we sat wondering what would happen about our expired visas. Well, first the Chileans were told that Namibia wouldnt let them in which was heartbreaking after they had travelled so far for so long, they would have to head back to the captial. Just as they were packing, driver Gav came onto the back of the truck looking very stressed. He said get your passports, get off the truck, show your passports to the policeman on the right and get across the border as quickly as possible. That was fairly easy. And on the Namibian side the black guards let us whites through ahead of the locals which seemed a bit bad but we wanted to get out of Angola ASAP so we kept walking. As we suspected, the Angola immigration people had realised, after handing back our passports, that we had overstayed by 4 days ($480 each!! and who knows, detention?). Gav told them most of us had already crossed to Namibia and he was too late, which of course wasnt true because we were all in the back of the truck waiting. So thats why we had to hurry. Anyway, we made it and it served them right for not being more efficient. Surely their job is to notice such things! So once we were in Namibia, after 9 days hard slog on the crappy roads we were in party mode and had a few drinks and enjoyed the modernity of Namibia.

So after all that, i can honestly say that after Cameroon, each country got better and better. I am so glad i came on this trip. Any fears i might have had about going to potentially volatile countries have proved unfounded. And although the roads were often terrible each country is trying to improve them; we saw lots of chinese guys and machinery fixing up some parts of the roads They are taking over!

During the 12 days we were bushcamping there was seldom access to fresh food so we had to eat the trucks stocks, as expected. So most nights we were eating a variation on pasta and tuna and tinned vegies. Still, if you throw enough spices and garlic at something, it normally turns out ok. and i still had lots of weetbix and porridge left for breakfast. The bushcamping, the changing scenery, the comaraderie and being self-sufficent has made the trip all the more enjoyable. Of course we still have a few months to go but this has been the real adventure as the east coast is much more well-travelled.

All the boys currently have marvellous moustaches, nicely trimmed. We are keeping them until we get to Cape Town.