First days in Nepal

Monday 7th March

We walked across the 500m bridge to Kakarbhitta, the border town in Nepal. The staff at immigration were friendly and gave me a 30 day stamp for $40, and exchanged some euros for Nepali rupees, (I think they might have ripped me off). We went to a travel agency and they organised the bus to Kathmandu for later in the day. So the 3 of us got some food and waited for our seperate buses. At 5, we said our goodbyes and I got on the bus. I knew the buses were fast and dangerous, and within 200 metres I had banged my head twice on the broken overhead fan, as we bounced up and down. After that I slunk down in my seat and held on tight!

Tuesday 8th March

Didn't get much sleep because bus was bouncing and shaking too much. Did sleep a bit when we stopped for a break. We saw at least one accident and it slowed us down. Got to Kathmandu 2 hours late, and not at the bus stop as promised, just at the side of a busy road. I was surrounded by 10 taxi drivers, eager for my rupees. I was fairly sure they would try to overcharge me but we had some friendlyish banter and I was stubborn and eventually got one of them down to about what I wanted to pay and to a hostel of my choice, not theirs, where they would get commission. The taxi driver drove pretty fast through the busy streets and dropped me off. Quick walk round the corner to this nice hotel.

Spent the morning talking to a travel agency about my trip to Tibet. I went to the Travel Agency that the Chileans recommended, although sadly the Chileans didn't get to go because China revoked travel permits the day before they were due to leave Kathmandu. This was probably because that time of year is around the anniversary of the 2008 uprising; hopefully when I go in April there will be no problems.

The guys at the agency seem very honest (and they had chai delivered to their office for me) so while I was there I asked them if they also organise porters for trekking in Annapurna. They don't but there was a guy there who owns a seperate company who does organise porters. SO I talked to him and he seems cool. Will go back tomorrow after I have had a think about it. Many travellers just carry their own backpack, but I don't fancy that, especially at high altitude. Also, as I am travelling alone, it will be good to have a companion, although it is a popular trek so I am sure to meet others along the way. 


There will be plenty of time for sightseeing in Kathmandu so had a cat nap in the afternoon. The electricity in Kathmandu is only on for a limited time in each area. So, at this hotel it was off earlier, then came back on just now. Thats how they control the amount of electricity used here. The lights might be on but the electric socket is not, this means the generator is being used to power the lights. The electric socket will work at 11pm, and maybe in the morning.

Wednesday 9th March


After porridge and banana, went across to the Travel Agency and put down a deposit for my Tibet trip. This includes an 8 day tour of Tibet, a 20-day Chinese permit and the train from Lhasa to Chengdu after. I will then have 10 days in China to sightsee and get to Hong Kong before the permit runs out.

Khamsum, who is organising a porter for me, met me at the same travel agency and we did some paperwork and he gave me the itinerary for the Annapurna circuit, which is basically the standard route most people take. We walked to his office, which is out of town, where the rent is cheaper, and filled in more paperwork. On the way back, mindful of what he had said about things being chepaer away from the touristy area of Thamel, I stopped at a trekking gear shop and bought some waterproof trousers and two trekking sticks; I almost look like a trekker!

Thamel is like the Khao San Road in Bangkok, all set up for tourists. Loads of trekking clothes shops, western-style restuarants and bars, internet cafes etc. So not the real Kathmandu or Nepal at all. So I went for a random walk to get away from Thamel and found myself down some narrow roads and old medieval buildings, and only locals, much better atmosphere. Arrived in historic Durbar Square, excellent, lots of old Hindu temples and buildings in a small area. Checked out a few local guest houses nearby, will check into pne of them when I get back from trekking, will be great to stay so close to the square and not have to hear 70's cover bands from bars across the street.


Thursday 10th March

Went to Tibet travel agency to see trek organiser Khamsum, and my porter, Nema. Nema seems like a cool guy, in his mid-20s, ok English and has walked the Annapurna circuit many times, so I think I am in safe hands. Long walk around the shops getting last minute bits and pieces. Momo for lunch. Leaving some of my stuff at the travel agency until I get back. It will be in 
a cardboard box I got from the supermarket. I have to say that communicating with the Nepalise is easier than it sometimes was with the Indians. The locals are more helpful and friendly.

So, I am ready for my 3 week trek, leaving Kathmandu tomorrow morning at 6am.