Saturday 29th January
7:50am train to Madurai. Because it is the start of the train line, there was no mad rush to get a seat. although it was busier as we approached Madurai 5 hours later. And as we pulled into Madurai and I made my way, with my bag, to the door, the scramble to get on was crazy, the Indians pushing and pulling eachother to get on, and just shoving people like me back, further into the train, which of course makes no sense. At times I was eyeball to eyeball in the doorway and they just keep pushing you back so I just had to back off for a few minutes, then steady myself and back into them and off the train. There was alot of swearing and cursing from me but they didnt seem to notice, except a guard on the platform who did show some understanding. Anyway, in any language or any culture it was rude and ridiculous to treat other people like that even if you do want a seat on the train. They have similar issues in Tokyo, but they let the people off before they try to get on, and there is not the same selfish aggression.
Still, it kind of snapped me out of any complacency about what can happen in India, which was good, because Madurai is a busy little town. The hotel is a bit expensive but has TV which is good for the weekends. Had a wander towards the main temple, lots of people and tuk-tuks and bikes, I actually enjoyed a bit of craziness after the relative peace of Kerala. Got my shorts fixed by a guy with a sewing machine. Of course I was wearing them when I found him and had to take them off, and made a fool of myself trying to tie on the large piece of cloth they gave me to cover up with.
Watched Australia lose 1-0 to Japan in the Asia cup, something strange with my TV made it look like they were playing on orange grass.
Sunday 30th January
Went to see the temple, quite a few people coming up and telling me what I can wear, and the opening times, very friendly but not really necessary and probably with a view to get into a conversation that ends up at a tailors where they get commission. Although I am mostly templed-out, the large Sri Meenakshi temple in Madurai certainly stands out with several towers adorned by hundreds of colourful statues of Hindi deities. Inside, the ceilings and walls are painted with similar colours. And there was an elephant that had been very well trained to take coins and cash in his trunk, in return for blessing the pilgrim with a steady tap and stroke to the head. Of course the elephant shouldnt be there, it should be in the wild.
Came back and watched Andy Murray lose the Aussie Open.
Monday 31st January
Started my epic journey from the south of India to central India. Got on the train at Madurai, 2nd class seat, a bit squashed but not too bad. The 8 hours to Chennai didn't drag too much, and we were 20 minutes early so I had well over an hour to get to the other station for my connection so had lunch along the way.
Then onto sleeper carriage at 15:40. My companions in my compartment were a group of 5 teenage student Buddhist monks. Turns out there were 140 of them on the train, some Indian, some Nepali. They study at Mysore and are going to Bodhgaya, where Buddha achieved Enlightenment. They were reading books about Buddha, some in English, so I had a bit of a read. In the evening we shared card tricks and I had yet another egg biriyani, not much choice. Early to bed.
Tuesday 1st February
The student monks were good company during the day and you could see that they were good friends who looked out for eachother. As with many Indian boys and men, they are very tactile with eachother. As I may have mentioned before, it is not appropriate for men and women to show one another affection in public, but boys and men do it all the time. The student monks were sometimes cuddled up together, arms round eachother, hands on eachothers knees and legs. Nothing wrong with this of course; its just an observation.
There is no shortage of food drink to buy on the train. Every few minutes a uniformed guy, never a woman, comes past offering chai (tea) or coffee, water and soft drinks. For breakfast I got omelette and bread and ketchup. Lunch was biriyani again so I skipped that and had 4 samosas in the afternoon.
My plan was to go straight to Katni today and onto Umaria and Tala, to the Tiger Park. But since my next train north doesn't leave Umaria until 6 days time, I thought I would stop off along the way, here at Jabalpur. So after 36 hours and over 2000kms I said goodbye to the students and got off the train. I ignored all the rickshaw drivers looking for a fare and steamed along into town to the hotel in the LP.....but I got lost in the dirt and the noise and the dark....
There seemed to be many people living on the streets, more than I have noticed elsewhere. I got hassled by some kids, I couldnt really work out whether they were harmless or not, though I think they threw stones at me. Eventually I found a guy who could speak some English. He and his little brother walked me across town to the hotel, I had been miles away. Ended up in a hotel nearby as it seemed nicer. I have been paying more than I like to for hotels recently but I haven't had much choice. Oh well, I have warm water and TV.
Wednesday 2nd February
Up early and walked to the bus stand, would have got lost again without locals helpful directions. 2 samosas for breakfast and then half an hour on the rickety old bus to Bhedaghat where I got a very old, strange-looking taxi, shared with 10 others to the river. I walked down to the ghat and to the jetty and straight onto a rowing boat with a couple of families. The boat goes along the gorge with marble-like cliffs above the holy river Narmada, which is the same river that Maheshwar etc are on. The cruise was ok.
Continued up the hill to the waterfalls, called Dhuandhad (Smoke Cascade). I went past them first and sat on the cliff above the river and read my book. Then I went down to the waterfalls, there were lots of families there enjoying the water and their homemade food. You can get very close to the falls, a concrete platform has been built on the river so you are right next to the gushihg water.
I walked back down the hill and took some steps up to Chausath Yogni, a small round 10th century temple, and very pleasant it was too, a few locals burning incense and saying prayers. Walked back down, a small detour to the local village. I then walked a few kms back to the crossroads and got a tuk-tuk back to Jabalpur. There were three of us in the drivers seat - me in the middle, another passenger on my left and the driver, half out of the tuk-tuk, leaning across me to steer.
Thursday 3rd February
A bit unsure about getting to the train station so early this morning as I didnt know if there would be any tuk-tuks at that time, its a long way to the station and I didnt really know the way and the streets seem a little dodgy. So i checked out at 5:15am. The streets were deserted but then I was pleased to see a cycle-rickshaw on the other side of the street. He worked very hard to get me to the station and got a 40% tip. Nice guys at the station, one insisted on buying me chai, and another saved me a seat on the crowded train, which left Jabalpur an hour late.
Arrived in Umaria around lunchtime, had a quick look around to see if there would be anywhere to stay when I go back that way, but there was nothing there. Got a cycle rickshaw to the bus stand and then onto a bus to Tala, bag on the roof. Found cheapish room and got Swedish Lupas and English Penny to stay here too, and we went off to organise a Tiger safari for tomorrow morning. We met Enlgish David and went to the main park gate. Signed up. Had dinner at outside restaurant. Its really cold here, especially after the heat of the south, but at least it gives me a reason to wear my down jacket.
Friday 4th February
So we got up at 5:30am and got picked up in a jeep and taken to the main gate for the tiger safari. Gate 1 was already booked out so they took us to gate 2. It was only once we were in the park that the guide told us that gate 2 has far fewer tigers and that we were less likely to see one. And after 4 hours of driving around, we didn't see a tiger, so quite disappointed. Had a cat nap and then tried to organise to go to gate 1 tomorrow. Organising the safari is quite confusing and bureaucratic getting locals help is not easy. But by 9pm we had a confirmation from a hotel for gate 1 for tomorrow.
This is a one street town. Its cold but the hotel, the food and the people here are excellent. All the more surprising then to see one of the park guides with a bandage on his head after he, and some tourists, were attacked in the park, by a suspected poacher. And also, while i slept yesterday afternoon, some guys came through on a jeep and smashed some shop windows opposite our hotel. Why? Because they are on heroin, according our hotel staff. Hmm, not really what you would expect from this town.
Saturday 5th February
So up at 5:30am again. Really cold, lots of layers on. More hopeful today about seeing tigers. The forest and landscape is beautiful, especially as the sun comes up, and we saw monkeys, maribou stalks and deer, but no tigers, again. All very disappointed, this is supposed to the park where you are most likely to see a tiger. We were all watching the side of the road and the forest very carefully looking for a tiger and I started to hallunicate, my mind so desperate to see those orange and black stripes. At the end they told us we can go on an elephant to see tigers, they know where they are, but it seems a bit staged so didnt want to do that. And it those people who did that said they had less than a minute to see the tigers. The other guys have left town but I have another day here anyway, so might try again to see the tigers in the morning.
Sunday 6th February.
My alarm was set for 5:30am but somehow I overslept so missed my chance to try and see the tigers. Then, an hour before I was going to check out and make my way to the train station, I realised that my train leaves tomorrow, not today. So I went and found the English couple to see about going to the park again with them this afternoon. It still seemed a bit expensive and I was not hopeful after two safaris of not seeing tigers. Then an American guy came over and we agreed to split the cost and the four of us went on the afternoon safari, with no high expectations as no tigers had been spotted in the park for a few days.
We did take a different route from the last few days. We stopped to look at some deer (yawn) and we saw a small owl in the hollow of a tree and stopped to look and take pix, before it hid inside the tree. We carried on for a few minutes then suddenly the guide shouts 'tiger, tiger, tiger' and pointed to the right side, and there, from behind a bush, came a large female tiger. About 15 metres away. She was not interested in us and just walked along between the trees, right past and behind us. Then she crossed the road and into the bushes. It was great to see such a magnificent creature in its own natural environment, no setup, no zoo. We were all very happy. If we hadnt stopped for the owl, we might have missed the tiger.
We carried on and started back towards the entrance gate, when another jeep reported seeing a tiger nearby, so we turned around, and our guide guessed that the tiger would be heading to the small waterhole. And within a few minutes it appeared from behind a bush and went down for a drink. It was a bit far away but when it had finished drinking it came towards us a bit and then headed up and away from us, taking small jumps as it went.
Two tigers in one day! We had a white-knuckle ride back to the entrance as there is a fine for being back late. Anyway, it was great to see the tigers, especially after the previous two disappointments. So glad I had the day here and made the effort to try again.
7:50am train to Madurai. Because it is the start of the train line, there was no mad rush to get a seat. although it was busier as we approached Madurai 5 hours later. And as we pulled into Madurai and I made my way, with my bag, to the door, the scramble to get on was crazy, the Indians pushing and pulling eachother to get on, and just shoving people like me back, further into the train, which of course makes no sense. At times I was eyeball to eyeball in the doorway and they just keep pushing you back so I just had to back off for a few minutes, then steady myself and back into them and off the train. There was alot of swearing and cursing from me but they didnt seem to notice, except a guard on the platform who did show some understanding. Anyway, in any language or any culture it was rude and ridiculous to treat other people like that even if you do want a seat on the train. They have similar issues in Tokyo, but they let the people off before they try to get on, and there is not the same selfish aggression.
Still, it kind of snapped me out of any complacency about what can happen in India, which was good, because Madurai is a busy little town. The hotel is a bit expensive but has TV which is good for the weekends. Had a wander towards the main temple, lots of people and tuk-tuks and bikes, I actually enjoyed a bit of craziness after the relative peace of Kerala. Got my shorts fixed by a guy with a sewing machine. Of course I was wearing them when I found him and had to take them off, and made a fool of myself trying to tie on the large piece of cloth they gave me to cover up with.
Watched Australia lose 1-0 to Japan in the Asia cup, something strange with my TV made it look like they were playing on orange grass.
Sunday 30th January
Went to see the temple, quite a few people coming up and telling me what I can wear, and the opening times, very friendly but not really necessary and probably with a view to get into a conversation that ends up at a tailors where they get commission. Although I am mostly templed-out, the large Sri Meenakshi temple in Madurai certainly stands out with several towers adorned by hundreds of colourful statues of Hindi deities. Inside, the ceilings and walls are painted with similar colours. And there was an elephant that had been very well trained to take coins and cash in his trunk, in return for blessing the pilgrim with a steady tap and stroke to the head. Of course the elephant shouldnt be there, it should be in the wild.
Came back and watched Andy Murray lose the Aussie Open.
Monday 31st January
Started my epic journey from the south of India to central India. Got on the train at Madurai, 2nd class seat, a bit squashed but not too bad. The 8 hours to Chennai didn't drag too much, and we were 20 minutes early so I had well over an hour to get to the other station for my connection so had lunch along the way.
Then onto sleeper carriage at 15:40. My companions in my compartment were a group of 5 teenage student Buddhist monks. Turns out there were 140 of them on the train, some Indian, some Nepali. They study at Mysore and are going to Bodhgaya, where Buddha achieved Enlightenment. They were reading books about Buddha, some in English, so I had a bit of a read. In the evening we shared card tricks and I had yet another egg biriyani, not much choice. Early to bed.
Tuesday 1st February
The student monks were good company during the day and you could see that they were good friends who looked out for eachother. As with many Indian boys and men, they are very tactile with eachother. As I may have mentioned before, it is not appropriate for men and women to show one another affection in public, but boys and men do it all the time. The student monks were sometimes cuddled up together, arms round eachother, hands on eachothers knees and legs. Nothing wrong with this of course; its just an observation.
There is no shortage of food drink to buy on the train. Every few minutes a uniformed guy, never a woman, comes past offering chai (tea) or coffee, water and soft drinks. For breakfast I got omelette and bread and ketchup. Lunch was biriyani again so I skipped that and had 4 samosas in the afternoon.
My plan was to go straight to Katni today and onto Umaria and Tala, to the Tiger Park. But since my next train north doesn't leave Umaria until 6 days time, I thought I would stop off along the way, here at Jabalpur. So after 36 hours and over 2000kms I said goodbye to the students and got off the train. I ignored all the rickshaw drivers looking for a fare and steamed along into town to the hotel in the LP.....but I got lost in the dirt and the noise and the dark....
There seemed to be many people living on the streets, more than I have noticed elsewhere. I got hassled by some kids, I couldnt really work out whether they were harmless or not, though I think they threw stones at me. Eventually I found a guy who could speak some English. He and his little brother walked me across town to the hotel, I had been miles away. Ended up in a hotel nearby as it seemed nicer. I have been paying more than I like to for hotels recently but I haven't had much choice. Oh well, I have warm water and TV.
Wednesday 2nd February
Up early and walked to the bus stand, would have got lost again without locals helpful directions. 2 samosas for breakfast and then half an hour on the rickety old bus to Bhedaghat where I got a very old, strange-looking taxi, shared with 10 others to the river. I walked down to the ghat and to the jetty and straight onto a rowing boat with a couple of families. The boat goes along the gorge with marble-like cliffs above the holy river Narmada, which is the same river that Maheshwar etc are on. The cruise was ok.
Continued up the hill to the waterfalls, called Dhuandhad (Smoke Cascade). I went past them first and sat on the cliff above the river and read my book. Then I went down to the waterfalls, there were lots of families there enjoying the water and their homemade food. You can get very close to the falls, a concrete platform has been built on the river so you are right next to the gushihg water.
I walked back down the hill and took some steps up to Chausath Yogni, a small round 10th century temple, and very pleasant it was too, a few locals burning incense and saying prayers. Walked back down, a small detour to the local village. I then walked a few kms back to the crossroads and got a tuk-tuk back to Jabalpur. There were three of us in the drivers seat - me in the middle, another passenger on my left and the driver, half out of the tuk-tuk, leaning across me to steer.
Thursday 3rd February
A bit unsure about getting to the train station so early this morning as I didnt know if there would be any tuk-tuks at that time, its a long way to the station and I didnt really know the way and the streets seem a little dodgy. So i checked out at 5:15am. The streets were deserted but then I was pleased to see a cycle-rickshaw on the other side of the street. He worked very hard to get me to the station and got a 40% tip. Nice guys at the station, one insisted on buying me chai, and another saved me a seat on the crowded train, which left Jabalpur an hour late.
Arrived in Umaria around lunchtime, had a quick look around to see if there would be anywhere to stay when I go back that way, but there was nothing there. Got a cycle rickshaw to the bus stand and then onto a bus to Tala, bag on the roof. Found cheapish room and got Swedish Lupas and English Penny to stay here too, and we went off to organise a Tiger safari for tomorrow morning. We met Enlgish David and went to the main park gate. Signed up. Had dinner at outside restaurant. Its really cold here, especially after the heat of the south, but at least it gives me a reason to wear my down jacket.
Friday 4th February
So we got up at 5:30am and got picked up in a jeep and taken to the main gate for the tiger safari. Gate 1 was already booked out so they took us to gate 2. It was only once we were in the park that the guide told us that gate 2 has far fewer tigers and that we were less likely to see one. And after 4 hours of driving around, we didn't see a tiger, so quite disappointed. Had a cat nap and then tried to organise to go to gate 1 tomorrow. Organising the safari is quite confusing and bureaucratic getting locals help is not easy. But by 9pm we had a confirmation from a hotel for gate 1 for tomorrow.
This is a one street town. Its cold but the hotel, the food and the people here are excellent. All the more surprising then to see one of the park guides with a bandage on his head after he, and some tourists, were attacked in the park, by a suspected poacher. And also, while i slept yesterday afternoon, some guys came through on a jeep and smashed some shop windows opposite our hotel. Why? Because they are on heroin, according our hotel staff. Hmm, not really what you would expect from this town.
Saturday 5th February
So up at 5:30am again. Really cold, lots of layers on. More hopeful today about seeing tigers. The forest and landscape is beautiful, especially as the sun comes up, and we saw monkeys, maribou stalks and deer, but no tigers, again. All very disappointed, this is supposed to the park where you are most likely to see a tiger. We were all watching the side of the road and the forest very carefully looking for a tiger and I started to hallunicate, my mind so desperate to see those orange and black stripes. At the end they told us we can go on an elephant to see tigers, they know where they are, but it seems a bit staged so didnt want to do that. And it those people who did that said they had less than a minute to see the tigers. The other guys have left town but I have another day here anyway, so might try again to see the tigers in the morning.
Sunday 6th February.
My alarm was set for 5:30am but somehow I overslept so missed my chance to try and see the tigers. Then, an hour before I was going to check out and make my way to the train station, I realised that my train leaves tomorrow, not today. So I went and found the English couple to see about going to the park again with them this afternoon. It still seemed a bit expensive and I was not hopeful after two safaris of not seeing tigers. Then an American guy came over and we agreed to split the cost and the four of us went on the afternoon safari, with no high expectations as no tigers had been spotted in the park for a few days.
We did take a different route from the last few days. We stopped to look at some deer (yawn) and we saw a small owl in the hollow of a tree and stopped to look and take pix, before it hid inside the tree. We carried on for a few minutes then suddenly the guide shouts 'tiger, tiger, tiger' and pointed to the right side, and there, from behind a bush, came a large female tiger. About 15 metres away. She was not interested in us and just walked along between the trees, right past and behind us. Then she crossed the road and into the bushes. It was great to see such a magnificent creature in its own natural environment, no setup, no zoo. We were all very happy. If we hadnt stopped for the owl, we might have missed the tiger.
We carried on and started back towards the entrance gate, when another jeep reported seeing a tiger nearby, so we turned around, and our guide guessed that the tiger would be heading to the small waterhole. And within a few minutes it appeared from behind a bush and went down for a drink. It was a bit far away but when it had finished drinking it came towards us a bit and then headed up and away from us, taking small jumps as it went.
Two tigers in one day! We had a white-knuckle ride back to the entrance as there is a fine for being back late. Anyway, it was great to see the tigers, especially after the previous two disappointments. So glad I had the day here and made the effort to try again.
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