17.11.10

Jaisalmer and Pushkar

Monday 15th November, continued. sorry its a bit long again.....

Having returned from the camel festival, it was time to explore Jaisalmer. I crossed the road from the hostel and walked along to the Fort's main gate. The fort was built in 1156 by a Jaiput ruler. It is made of sandstone and looks like a giant sandcastle in the desert. Inside is a warren of narrow streets and some temples and residences, as well as lots of tourist hotels and shops which should have been left outside of the fort. I took the audio guide tour of the palace and wandered round the various rooms. There were paintings, a throne, weapons and a 360 degree view of the sandstone town from the roof.

I walked back down into town and got a curry pokara with extra hot sauce and sat in the market square to eat and people watch. The ladies selling vegies on the ground had to keeping shooing away the cows as they tried to snaffle some lunch. The cow is sacred of course so they try not to upset them. Then i had a good long walk around the narrow backstreets. All of the houses are also made of sandstone and have beautiful sandstone carved windows and doors. The carving is so intricate and must have taken months; it looks like wood. I visited a large haveli, which is a residence for the rich, and has the best carvings on the outside. I had a look around inside, as it was left when last vacated, 100 years ago, i think.

I walked down to the picturesque lake, Sat chilling out, when, as sometimes happens, some locals insisted on having a picture taken with me; this time an extended family. So i posed with them, and then got them to take a picture with my camera. Why not? The attention gets a bit tedious sometimes, but other times its ok and good to be friendly! We had expensive dinner ($5) of Rajasthani Thali, it was good. The girls left for Jodhpur and Matt and I watched some of Superman IV.


Tuesday 16th November

I was glad to have more time in Jaisalmer as it is a beautiful town and alot less frantic than the other cities i have been to. I went back up to the Fort and to the Jain temples. Inside are more amazing sandstone carvings of gods and animals and flowers. Amazing and very India. The Jain religion strongly encourages not harming any creature in any way, moreso than Buddhism, and their icon looks a bit like Buddha but without the chubby tummy.

I had more of a wander around before heading to the bus station where i met Matt and we got the 4:30pm bus to Pushkar. I got a sleeper cabin which is only a bit more expensive than a normal seat and there is room to lie down and stretch out a bit. Listened to footy podcasts and read my book before dozing off.


Wednesday 17th November

The bus arrived half an hour late, at 4am, in Pushkar. The hostel owner met me off the bus which was good of him. Matt disappeared somewhere. On the back of the hostel guys bike back to the hostel. They gave me a room, even though my reservation really starts tonight. Soon after arriving it started to rain and it is still raining now, 7 hours later, which apparently is very unusual. The fair is still going but seems a bit washed out. Had a wander round with some others. We went to the Brahma temple which was pretty crowded with people offering prayers, and then to the lake which has 52 ghats where the pilgrims bathe in the sacred water. Again it really felt like India and the overcast weather added to the atmosphere. Got some lunch and came back.

And then the rain stopped and the sun came out, a bit, and the rest of the day was awesome. Played a bit of cricket in the front yard then I went for a longer walk around the festival, dodging the puddles. Despite the large number of people there is less traffic as there are no tuk-tuks and fewer bikes buzzing around.

In the stadium there was a crowd gathered to watch some girls folding themselves in half (pix to follow). Then I walked to where the camels and their owners are staying in tents while they do business. Some of the camels are dressed up, and there are market stalls where you can buy colorful camel accessories.

Saw my first snake charmer which was cool, although the guy wasn't satisfied with my donation, even though he had to keep prodding the second snake to get it to move. A guy fixed my sandals. There was just so much colour everywhere and so much going on that you didnt know which way to look. They inflated and released an air balloon into the blue sky.

Went back to the hostel where some of the guys were recovering from a 'special lasse', it made them sick. Had falafel roll for dinner. Bumped into Matt; he had not got off the bus as he slept through and ended up in Jaipur and had to come back. The ferris wheels and pirate ship lit up the night sky. I went to the cultural evening in the stadium. On stage they had different singing and music and dancing acts, as well as people balancing stuff on their heads such as a spinning bicycle wheel, a bowl of fire and a woman with a big bowl on top of four stacked glasses. They finished with a big Hindi dance song. To be honest the crowd didnt seem to get too excicted. They only clap for a short time, and quietly after each act. I think thats just how they are. Anyway, I had a great time.

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